How to Troubleshoot No Heat in an Electrolux Dryer

Gather a Phillips screwdriver, a multimeter, and a vacuum with a flexible attachment for lint removal.

Turn the dryer off, pull it forward, and remove the rear terminal block cover screw with a Phillips screwdriver.

Inspect the terminal block and power cord for blackened, burnt, or melted areas.

Set a multimeter to AC voltage, and measure center-to-left for 120 VAC and center-to-right for 120 VAC.

Measure left-to-right for about 208–240 VAC.

Remove the two screws at the rear edge of the top panel with a Phillips screwdriver.

Slide the top panel back, and lift it off the dryer.

Remove the two screws holding the interface to the bulkhead with a Phillips screwdriver.

Release the interface wire harness, removing the two bracket screws if the harness retainer blocks access.

Remove the interface from the bulkhead.

Remove the two screws holding the dryer control board assembly in place, and lift it free of the bulkhead.

Open the dryer door, and remove the two screws that secure the front panel to the gray bulkhead.

Remove the two lint filter housing screws inside the door opening.

Close the door, and remove the two lower front screws near the bottom corners.

Lift the front panel up a little, disconnect the door switch harness between the front and bulkhead, and remove the front panel.

Remove the two lower bulkhead screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

Lift the bulkhead up, and pull it slightly away from the chassis.

Pinch the cable tie holding the door switch harness at the lower right with needle nose pliers, and release it without cutting.

Remove the bulkhead or set it to the side with the wiring still attached if there’s enough slack.

Reach into the dryer and locate the idler pulley on the right side behind the blower and motor assembly.

Pull the idler pulley to the left to relieve belt tension, and slip the belt off the motor pulley.

Use the belt as a handle, and lift the drum up and out of the chassis.

Inspect the filter housing and surrounding ducting for lint buildup.

Use a vacuum and a flexible vent attachment to remove lint from hard-to-reach areas.

Remove any packed lint by hand if the vent tool repeatedly clogs.

Pull the two thermistor terminals off the black blower thermistor.

Set the multimeter to resistance in the 20–200 kΩ range if it isn’t auto-ranging.

Measure across the thermistor terminals, and confirm 50,000–55,000 Ω at room temperature.

Replace the thermistor if resistance is far outside range or the meter shows OL.

Remove the wires from the outlet fuse on the vent pipe near the blower housing.

Set the multimeter to resistance or continuity, and measure across the fuse terminals.

Confirm the fuse reads 0.00 Ω or very close to it.

Replace the outlet fuse if the meter shows OL.

Remove the wires from the thermostat at the rear of the heating canister.

Set the multimeter to resistance or continuity, and confirm the thermostat reads 0.00 Ω or very close to it.

Remove the wires from the thermal fuse in the middle of the heating canister, and test for 0.00 Ω or very close to it.

Replace any component that shows OL because it will prevent heating.

Remove all connectors from the heating element terminals on the front of the heating canister.

Set the multimeter to resistance, and measure between the right post and each left post on a three-left one-right setup for 25–30 Ω.

Measure between the left posts individually, and confirm about 50 Ω.

Measure across the two posts on a two-wire setup, and confirm roughly 10 Ω.

Replace the element if any required measurement shows OL.

Remove the two screws that secure the canister feet to the chassis.

Remove the small screw at the rear right side of the bulkhead that may also secure the canister.

Use an angled wrench or a very short stubby Phillips screwdriver for the rear screw if clearance is tight.

Remove the sensors from the old canister by removing the two small screws from each sensor.

Remove the two screws inside the lip of the element, bending the faceplate slightly if needed, and remove the front cover.

Install the thermal fuse on the replacement canister using the correct small screws.

Install the canister legs, seating them into the recess so everything lines up, and reinstall the two screws that go into the feet.

Seat the heating canister into the chassis, aligning the feet with the metal slots so it only fits one way.

Push the canister snugly into the rear bulkhead area, then reinstall the foot screws and the rear retaining screw if used on the unit.

Reconnect all heating element and sensor wires to their original locations.

Reroute the harness for extra slack if a terminal doesn’t reach, then secure the wire trunk with a high-temperature cable tie.

Wrap the belt around the drum on the worn ridge, and orient the drum so the rear ridge faces the idler and motor area.

Lower the drum into the chassis so it rests on the rear bulkhead between the roller wheels.

Pull the idler pulley to the left, loop the belt around the motor pulley, and keep the belt ridges facing the inside of the drum.

Rotate the drum by hand, and confirm it turns smoothly and drives the blower wheel without unusual noise.

Position the bulkhead so its side tabs rest in the chassis holes, then slot the top tabs into place.

Rotate the drum as needed so the bulkhead aligns on the front rollers behind it.

Reinstall the two bottom bulkhead screws.

Snap the door switch wire harness back into the bulkhead, and reconnect the door light switch to the control board.

Reinstall the two screws that secure the control board cross plate after its fingers are inserted into the bulkhead.

Reinstall the two top front screws to secure the front panel to the chassis.

Open the door, and reinstall the two lint filter housing screws.

Reconnect the interface-to-control-board wire harness to the correct receptacle, then lock the interface tabs into the front panel.

Slide the top panel into place, and reinstall the two rear top screws.

Lift the board assembly up, and disconnect the wire harnesses from the board.

Pry the five or six tabs holding the board cover on, remove the cover, and pull the board out.

Inspect the relay area and the underside for burnt traces or failed solder joints.

Replace the control board if damage is extensive or you find clear electrical failure signs.

Reconnect all eight wire harnesses to the control board using your photos, leaving the board loose for access.

Use the tech sheet schematic to identify heater-output pinouts J52, J71, and J73.

Measure AC voltage from the terminal block black wire feeding the motor system to each heater-output pinout wire, and look for over 200 VAC when heat should be on.

Replace the control board if readings are under 200 VAC at the heater outputs during a heat call because the relays aren’t switching properly.