Danger
Potentially Dangerous
Injury may result if this procedure is not followed properly. Use caution and follow all warnings.
Danger

Introduction

A common problem in the iPhone 4S, sometimes the Wi-Fi button will be grayed out and unclickable. This problem seems to be related to thermal shock — the problem may be temporarily fixed by simply putting the phone in the refrigerator for 15 minutes, or under a lamp for 30 minutes.

If this is the case, then the necessary permanent solution is to reflow the Murata SW SS1830010 Wi-Fi chip on the logic board.

Image 1/1: Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe P2 screws next to the dock connector.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe P2 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

The Liberation Kit just stripped the screw. Now what.

nimpsy - Reply

Had local iPhone repair shop remove the screw. Repair complete!

nimpsy -

I left the battery in and everything above the middle, using a pen knife to flex the logic board, I had plenty of room to else the old out and the new in.

Worked well and saved a lot of time.

Keith M - Reply

After reviewing the steps I decided to follow this guy's advice and left the battery in.....one less item to possibly foul up. I don't know if it made it any faster (first time to open my phone, so nothing to compare it to) but I can say that my phone is charging for the first time in 6 months :D

Jennifer -

BEFORE YOU START:

1) This is doable but not easy, quick or without risk.

2) If this is your 1st time, the whole process can take >2 hours (half of it reading this fixit manual and notes, which I highly recommend!)

3) I highly recommend placing a large, thin clean white cloth on the table. This prevents screws from rolling around and you will clearly see anything falling out.

4) If you have them, use tight surgical (latex) gloves. This prevents you from greasing up contacts.

5) Have e.g. a big old egg box ready, so you can place the screws in order (and maybe write step/screw size on the side).

6) I bought my display from "Generic" on Amazon ($20.36). Screen works fine and tools were ok but not great (screw drivers do not withstand force needed to unscrew some).

7) I had my own 2mm Phillips screw driver and a 2.4mm flat (for the big screws).

8) Have a nice cold beer by your side! Good luck!

superedu111 - Reply

Sounds like this comment relates to a screen replacement, not a rear panel replacement. No way a rear panel replacement would take 2 hours - can be done in 2 minutes!

Jonathan Deamer -

I was paranoid about stripping the pentalobes - I used the ifixit pentalobe screwdriver TOGETHER with a layer of Glad Wrap (cling film or saran wrap for the non-Aussies) over the pentalobe holes - absolutely no problems. Guess it helps the driver head gain purchase?

Anyway hat tip to this guy:

http://modmyi.com/forums/hardware/806092...

jimforbes - Reply

It's also called glad wrap in the US as well. :)

Scorppio500 Webmaster -

After seeing the comments about trouble finding the carrier, I shut down the phone, did a soft reset (by holding the power and home buttons until it started and then shut down and stayed off), and removed the SIM. After the repair, I replaced the SIM and plugged it in to the charger. It started up and found the carrier (Verizon, as it happens) immediately. I would guess that only the soft reset made a difference, but I did both.

DavidLewis - Reply

Thank you David, will I need to reload operating system if I replace thr logic board? I'm hoping to use a 32gb boards from a locked but working phone to place in my 8gb device. Thanks for your advice,

Sharif

Sharif Bagnulo -

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Reply

Here's a little vacuum trick for anything small: put nylons/panty hose over the end of the hose and then you don't have to dig thru the bag contents.

paul -

Marv you a first class pleb! Please don't try and fix anything again. Tool

ticklejahfancy -

my screws are stipped and i am going though the front glass to get to the logic board could some one give me a guide on how to get to the board please... thanks

Caleb Croft - Reply

all you need to do is remove the clip over the wifi antenna and the one that actually attaches the wifi antenna to the iphone two steps to do this job...

Ray Leahy - Reply

The physical battery replacement went off without a hitch, and saw that the phone had no network connection, but also had no way to unlock. The slide lock said "Slide for Emergency Call" over my custom wallpaper and sliding would give the passcode screen, but it would reject the 6 digit passcode (it would buzz and go dark after the 4th digit, re-awakening and putting in the last 2 would indicate bad passcode). Very frustrating! I get it into recovery mode and convinced iTunes to "update" the OS, but it still didn't let me in. I performed a restore to fully factory reset the phone, and it worked! Sort of... the start screen kept being replaced by "Temperature - phone needs to cool down" but it's cold. Temp sensor is on the battery and returning to old battery fixed it. New battery is bad, and phone is wiped. Fun night.

I'm going to guess that disabling the password might save you from a similar fate. So, I'll suggest BEFORE YOU START, backup your phone and disable the passcode. Good luck.

Ian Epperson - Reply

Same here.. Going through that terrible night myself! Guess you had to return your battery right?

Nuno Alves -

Is it possible to replace front glass only? If so, please provide a manuel

Iva - Reply

Image 1/2: The panel will move about 2 mm. Image 2/2: The panel will move about 2 mm.
  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

how can i take out the screw if it is stripped

Manny Chaidez - Reply

with a small driller, but I guess it is very difficult. Never attempted that myself on an iPhone.

lantzero -

There is no screw in Step 2?

Is the screw stripped or the head stripped?

I have used superglue on the screwdriver to remove a stripped screw, it would turn but not come out, with superglue I could turn and pull the screw out. May also work on a stripped head.

Trevor -

If you are careful, use a Dremel tool and a micro drill bit (sold where Dremel tools are purchased) to drill it out. Last resort kind of thing, good luck.

Jack - Reply

Why isn't it moving? I removed my screws.

Thomas The Train - Reply

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Reply

I didn't see any extra screws holding the back in place. I had to use the included pry tool to get the back off. Just start at the bottom and pry gently...if you just "pull" like the guide says it won't work.

Brian - Reply

Don't use too much force to slide the back -- the back on my phone was hard to slide, and I bent and broke a silver metal contact tab at the top of the back (on the inside).

perryskeath - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the rear panel from the iPhone.
  • Pull the rear panel away from the back of the iPhone, being careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

  • Remove the rear panel from the iPhone.

On reassembly, be sure to clean the metal plate at the place of contact with the tiny pressure contact mentioned in step 4.

Harald Brandt - Reply

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Reply

The replacement panel I got had two sheets of protective plastic on the inside and one on the outside. I used a toothpick to carefully lift and peel the two inside sheets off. One small one was over the lens on the inside. The other was over some large brown sheet of unknown function (though I think it goes over the battery). When I peel that away, some of the brown material tried to lift of with it, so be very careful.

dhein - Reply

From this point go to step ?? Just peel off the tape from the chip. Take some aluminium foil and cut a hole the size of the chip (Use a second layer of foil if you don't thrust it). Heat the chip as described at temperature 300 deg C for 5 minutes. Let it cool down. Reassemble and ..... hura WIFI is on again.

Lucasa Clearman - Reply

Image 1/3: One 1.7 mm Phillips screw Image 2/3: One 1.5 mm Phillips screw. Image 3/3: Use a plastic opening tool to gently detach the battery connector from the socket on the device. Start lifting off the connector from the bottom side, by placing the tip of the tool between the loudspeaker enclosure and the metal cover of the connector.
  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector to the logic board:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently detach the battery connector from the socket on the device. Start lifting off the connector from the bottom side, by placing the tip of the tool between the loudspeaker enclosure and the metal cover of the connector.

  • The battery connector comes off vertically from the logic board. Do not apply force sideways.

  • Pay attention to the pressure contact underneath the top screw of the battery connector. This may come loose while prying the battery connector from its socket.

On my phone at least, there is a small gold and black part held down under the top screw. It goes black side up with the pressure contact touching the back of the phone when the cover is in place. Keep an eye out for correct orientation as you dismantle.

James Molyneux - Reply

I also had a small black and gold connector held down by the top screw on this step.

Kevin Keenan - Reply

While the text refers to the pressure contact, the pictures do not show it clearly. The closet one that does has the yellow circle covering much of it. I was not sure if it was under or on top of the cover when re-installing. It's under.

gregsrow - Reply

This step needs a few more caveats.

The bottom screw on my phone was locked with some thread adhesive, and required more force to loosen it than I expected.

Even after removing the screws, the battery connector was rather firmly seated, and required a fair bit of persistent gentle prying with the opening tool before it came loose.

The ground clip came loose and nearly flew off while loosening the connector, so it would really help people if there were a warning on this step to watch out for the ground clip and make sure it doesn't bounce away.

threephi - Reply

Despite putting a large amount of pressure on the screw I can't get the blades of the 00 to take. Has anyone tried with a 000 and does it work better?

abeardsa - Reply

The 00 didn't work much for me but I had more success with a Phillips #0

DMcG -

I find the #00 doesn't work either. I use the #000 and it works better for me.

Keith -

The battery connector is attached to the battery. You're not going to completely lift it out and remove it. It pulls out from the socket you can see in step 5 picture 3. The pressure contact (little black and gold thing) will probably just slide out from under the connector. Not a problem.

DMcG - Reply

Which screwdriver works best then. I got the #00 philips from ifixit. I agree - it strips the screw and does not work. I don't recommend it.

I am now trying to buy another screwdriver - but which one. #0 or #000. Anyone done this. Please help!

andrepoon - Reply

I lost the screws securing the battery connector to the logic board, what happens when I turn on my iphone without securing screws, as shown in step 4, please solution. thank you

Afriyadi - Reply

The iFixit screwdriver that is recommended and provided will strip the screws here. HOLD OFF. I bought a ph000 screwdriver off the internet. Worked fine. Don't be tempted to proceed with the ph00 from iFixit. IT WILL STRIP!!

andrepoon - Reply

seconded. after shipping (to spain, plus surprise import taxes) and nearly $100, the 1.7 mm screw would not budge and ended up stripped. uncool.

jejerez -

I completed this repair without removing the battery. I think the guide should be edited to note that battery removal is not necessary.

M C - Reply

A little late to ask but how did you do this without taking the battery out? My screws are a pain to get out and if there is a better way of doing this then I'd like to try.

josephcon1998 -

I completed this successfully, but this step gave me the most trouble. The pressure contact is really difficult to reseat. So much so that it should probably be called out more clearly in it's own step.

Greg Fulco - Reply

If your pressure contact pops out you might find the video at http://www.hightechdad.com/2013/05/07/ho... helpful

Martin Cleaver - Reply

I found this link to be incredibly helpful in identifying how/ where to put the pressure contact back in place

Elizabeth Harris -

When reinstalling the position of pressure contact must be explained better! It took me about 5 min to understand how it fit!

Jorge - Reply

In french: attention avant de retirer le contacteur de la batterie. La vis du haut tient "en sandwich" une petite pièce métallique noire et dorée. Cette pièce a pour but de faire contact de masse avec le dos de l'iphone quand il est refermé. Donc il ne faut pas la tordre. Quand les deux vis du contacteur sont retirée, attention au moment de débrancher le contacteur: cela va faire bouger cette pièce qui ne doit pas être abîmée ni tordue. Au remontage, il faut bien la remettre en place sous le contacteur de batterie: il est tout à fait possible de mettre d'abord le contacteur, puis de glisser la petite pièce au dessous pour qu'elle soit bien à sa place, le trou en face du trou de vis et du trou du contacteur. En remettant la vis, la pièce tient bien en place. Elle doit bien continuer à dépasser de manière a faire contact avec le dos de l'iphone.

stephane lecreux - Reply

Top screw didn’t move with iFixit Philips #000 driver. The metal is too soft and in the result the screw was damaged while still in place. Having nothing to lose I also tried #00 and #0. Any way to remove the stuck screw? I would gladly saw it off if I could.

viktorcode - Reply

Ok, I had to drill the screw to break it. It was very delicate and time consuming operation. But in the end the screw cap finally broke off and I was able to remove the battery!

viktorcode -

The Liberation Kit Philips head screwdriver strips the battery connector screws! It stripped the ne 1.7 mm Phillips screw circled in red in the photo above. I was able to remove the other screw, then I lifted the battery connector off while the red screw was still in position and wound the connector around in circles while lifting upwards and managed to unscrew the stripped screw. Advice, find a decent philips heard screwdriver for the internal screws like the two found on the battery connector.

remsta - Reply

When reassembling, use EST tweezers to get align the pressure contact over the top screw hole. using the pointy end of a spudger to assist: put the point through top screw-hole on the battery connector, then through the pressure contact and into the screw-hole. this will help to keep the small piece in place while re-seating the battery connector. Leave the top hole spiked as such until the screw in the bottom hole is gently fastened. Remove the spudger and replace the top screw.

tallismanproductions - Reply

Pressure contact needs to be remain EXACTLY in the same position if you remove/replace battery. I had to re-open my iPhone 4S after a battery replacement (the mobile connectivity was lost) and tweak the position of the Pressure to restore functionality.

Peter Schoeman - Reply

Why do I have to remove the battery for disassembling the rear camera? Any idea?

Andreas Suck - Reply

Hi, I have a problem with that small piece which connect gsm antenna with the back cover. I missed that part and have a weak signal gsm, so I buy it and now when I put it there the Iphone wont turn on when the back cover is puted on. I know that somewhere is short-circuit but dont know how to solve it. Sorry for my english.

jurajtomecek7 - Reply

I used my 16x magnifier loupe to be certain I had the pressure sensor aligned with the screw hole - no problem, no stripping. I consider it indispensable for tricky steps like this, and IFixit sells a similar tool for just $14.

Jen Morris - Reply

The pressure connector is the battery connector under the silver plate. BE CAREFUL. It seems like it'd be really easy to tear that pressure connector out without meaning to. The bronze and black thing is the ground, *not* the pressure connector. If you remove it just keep track of it and re-install it.

Brian - Reply

this help me a lot, i just don't know how to fix it(bought it from http://www.laimarket.com/red-replacement...)

Dean - Reply

The phillips head screwdriver provided in the ifixit repair kit does not work well this these two screws after my first attempt at unscrewing the screws became stripped. The 1.7 mm phillips screw gave me the most trouble. It took an hour to unscrew after the screwdriver from the kit stripped the screw. I used a piece of masking tape over the screw for grip to loosen it, then used finger nail clippers as pliers to unscrew. I would recommend investing in a better screwdriver for this one step. Assembly is otherwise simple and easy.

teeteebaby5 - Reply

Here's a tip if you're having trouble removing the 1.7 mm screw. I had real problems removing it – the 1.5 mm screw came out easily using a Phillips #000 screwdriver but I almost stripped the 1.7 mm screw using the same screwdriver. What I did instead was use a flathead screwdriver from the iFixit pro tech toolkit I got, the one with a "–" sign and 1.0 size. That worked perfectly!

Lars - Reply

There's only one Philips screwdriver with the kit but it failed to unscrew the top 1.7mm one off the connector unfortunately. Is the kit supposed to come with both the 1.7 and 1.5mm Philips screwdrivers?

yanchou - Reply

When disconnecting the battery make sure to use a plastic tool not a metal tool that could short out the battery

Ethan Chow - Reply

I did not manage to get the screws out with a Phillips #000 Screwdriver; I used instead the J1000 head of the all-new pro tech toolkit

Jean Wallemacq - Reply

I would agree that a decent magnifier would help as the screws and components are small.

Also take necessary precautions to ensure the screws are not lost or mixed up.

Other than being a bit fiddly (particularly the earth connector), the only challenge I had not covered was that the battery was fixed with glue close to where the connector is and despite releasing the battery along the side, I couldn't get the battery to lift out using the tab. In the end I had to use the plastic tools to gently lever the battery away, working from the outside edge and ensuring I wasn't levering against the volume control buttons.

The new battery is in and following the advise given, I hard reset the phone and all my usual functions are now running... and if this £18:00 fix gives the phone another year or two of use, it will be well worth the effort.

Dave Mann - Reply

When i replaced my battery then my i phone4s suddenly diseabled to 4million hours or sonething big like that....So at the end i had to go for a flash..when it was updating in the middle there has been a error so my logo comes CONNECT TO ITUNES...so what can i do guzs????

ALBURT - Reply

Vous dites "Le connecteur de batterie s'enlève verticalement de la carte mère. Ne forcez pas latéralement"

Ou placez vous la verticalité ? pour moi c'est connecteur d'alimentation en bas, bouton d'alimentation en haut ?

Parce ce que sur la photo suivante, vous enlevez le connecteur de la gauche vers la droite ... c'est à dire latéralement ...

Soit nous n'avons pas le même sens vertical / horizontal, soit il y a un GROS problème dans l'explication, ou dans la traduction.

En tout cas, à la lecture de votre explication, j'ai essayé d'enlever le connecteur vers le haut !!

Donc il m'est maintenant impossible de remettre la batterie neuve, le connecteur est cassé !!!

Bravo pour l'expertise ifixit :(

Appoline - Reply

Image 1/3: When reinstalling the pressure contact, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference. Image 2/3: Take notice of the position of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector. This clip is attached only by the upper screw. When reinstalling, it must be aligned so the gold contact point will press against the back cover. Image 3/3: Be careful not to rip off the battery connector socket soldered on the logic board. There are 4 very small soldering points awaiting this mistake!
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pull the pressure contact from underneath the battery connector.

  • When reinstalling the pressure contact, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference.

  • Take notice of the position of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector. This clip is attached only by the upper screw. When reinstalling, it must be aligned so the gold contact point will press against the back cover.

  • Be careful not to rip off the battery connector socket soldered on the logic board. There are 4 very small soldering points awaiting this mistake!

If I did accidentally remove the pressure contact point from the logic board...what do I do?

Samuel Z - Reply

I also did this. Not sure what its for? My phone appears to be fine now without it.

Ian Booth -

This picture needs to be greatly enlarged! The pressure plate sits directly underneath the battery connector, but cannot be seen here. It is also flat but about half the size of the battery connector, so you won't know you've ripped it up until you have! Picture two slices of bread but not the same size, stuck together.

S Byers - Reply

What if you pop off that pressure contact point?? What is its function? Is it impossible to re-attach?

Ian Booth - Reply

No idea what exactly this step means. I just pulled the battery connector without trying to move the pressure contact. Installed new battery, plugged in connector and aligned the pressure contact slightly for the screw to fit.

Got a big scare as the phone would not connect to the cell network at first boot, only WiFi. Shut it off and when it rebooted it seemed to work. WIll probably know in a day or so if everything works fine or if there are interference issues, etc.

andries - Reply

This is normal ... removing the battery resets internal clock to start value and your provider doesn't accept that, hence no network.

Going online through wifi or manually setting date right corrects this after a reboot.

Dreetn -

I also accidentally removed the pressure contact. I put it back in place as best I could during reassembly and so far haven't ran into any problems.

Maynard Stevens - Reply

The black & copper contact piece is missing from my iPhone. Does that explain why my phone won't restore and keeps re-booting? I have tried every kind of restore with no luck. Any ideas?

ozarkana - Reply

After reassembling the iPhone I the GSM connection wasn't working. After cleaning all parts with isopropyl alcohol it still didn't work. What solved my problem was to turn on WiFi and then synchronizing the date and time which was set to 1970-01-01. After a reboot everything worked just fine. :)

Florian - Reply

I had the same problem. Thanks for the solution!!

Manolis Mylonakis -

thanks for this!

Bill McNamara -

The black ground contact needs still more "flagging." This is a simple metal strip that is attached ONLY by the 1.5mm (upper) screw. It will help if you look at it before you remove the upper screw. Notice the gold contact arm and point. That contact point must be in a plane above every other surface inside the device when you replace the battery connector, because it makes a ground contact with the metallic inner surface of the device back plate.

When I replaced it, I used the Pentalobe driver to line up battery connector and ground contact with the screw socket post. I then attached the 1.7mm (lower) screw loosely, removed the Pentalobe driver gently, and inserted the 1.5mm (upper) screw into the assembly. There is a tab on the ground contact that helps it align properly once pressure begins to applied. I completed driving the upper screw, pressing lightly with the spudger on the battery connector plate to make sure it was seated on the pressure contacts. Finally, I completed driving the lower screw.

Matt McCaffrey - Reply

This is a hard step because the directions and pictures are not very clear. This might help:

1) Here you HAVE TO disconnect the battery connecter (the language is confusing).

2) This is easier than it looks, as you can simply lift the connector upwards from any angle (I rested my plastic tool on the antenna and gently lifted it up).

The photo suggests you have to pull the connector backwards (which would be hard), this is not true, it can be lifted up towards you (the pins go out backwards and upwards, you'll see).

Finally, don't confuse the "pressure contact" with the "pressure contact point". You remove the contact, the contact point (underneath) sits on the board. No need to worry about this.

superedu111 - Reply

Very ambiguous instructions for amateurs like me. eg. "pressure contact" & "pressure contact point". Some labelling in the photos would be a great help.

Stephen Shaw - Reply

Wish the instructions had the warnings about the pressure contact before getting started. I removed it from the logic board because the warning was after the instructions. I managed to get it back in place and reassemble the phone. Nothing happened when I turned it on. Here I wrongly assumed the battery came pre-charged but it wasn't. I decided to plug it in to recharge it and was elated to see the empty battery symbol. I'm sending this from the phone!

jfksdca - Reply

I didn't find any need to remove the pressure contact. I just pried the battery connector up (gently) with a spudger and left the pressure contact in place. Connected the new battery and aligned the pressure contact screw hole. Replaced the screws, finished reassembly and all was good.

Roger Mercer - Reply

After reassembly, the CELL CONNECTION WASN'T WORKING. You might need to slightly bend the contact in step 5 up just a little, so it will make contact with the metal back plate. Did that and it worked perfectly.

Great kit, great instructions, thanks!

AirPhonesApp - Reply

all those teeny screws...and the world is so...well...BIG!

go slow and put those parts INTO something...

putting them "on" something will just cause heartache and and an infected bladder...

°¿°

after a lot of froofroo and very errant iphone behaviour problems, i concluded that that tiny grounding piece must be being lazy as hello. i spread it out a bit to ensure a better contact with the back plate and everything appears to be working smoothly.

did this repair, as well as the battery replacement...GTG!!!

spoke too soon, i 'spect...random reboots persist.

richard - Reply

Just went through the replacement and the battery "plug" (step 5) on my replacement battery was slightly misaligned relative to the metal plate used to screw it onto the board. The plastic and "gold" "plug" was slightly askew on the metal plate, which meant that when the plug was inserted, the screw holes (step 4) were poorly aligned.

I managed to pull everything back into line using the screws, but the QC on these replacement batteries is a bit suspect.

cvdwl - Reply

Guess what happens when you rotate that ground connector 180 degrees...it grounds what I deduced to be the heat sink of the power amplifier for the speaker! So it is silent. It took me a couple of attempts to discover this as I was distracted by the new speaker not sitting down properly and a little dot of stuff under the main connector stuck to the pins. The latter was cleaned-off with a pin under 5x magnification followed by some isopropyl alcohol.

I suggest that Step 5 is more explicit about the orientation of this ground connector. It's only obvious after a really close look and if one has a lot to do like I did, it's a long time before one comes back to this step so the correct orientation is not obvious.

Michael Scollay - Reply

If you magnify picture 4 or picture 5 twice, you can view the ground clip under the blue tool. You need to reinstall the ground clip with the copper color prong facing "up." I believe the ground clip is what many are calling the "pressure contact point" because the copper prong of the ground clip does indeed have pressure asserted to it when it contacts the back cover of the iPhone 4s.

Richard Riddle - Reply

Image 1/2: Run the plastic opening tool along the right edge of the battery and pry up at several points to completely separate it from the adhesive securing it to the outer case. Image 2/2: Run the plastic opening tool along the right edge of the battery and pry up at several points to completely separate it from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.
  • Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool between the battery and the outer case near the bottom of the iPhone.

  • Run the plastic opening tool along the right edge of the battery and pry up at several points to completely separate it from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.

This can be very tricky because sometimes theres just too many glue on the back of the battery, and eventually the battery will be deformed.

Carlos Lopes - Reply

Yes, there did seem to be a lot of glue holding my battery in. At first I was afraid of breaking it, but after reading up on the subject I've learned that it is okay if the battery gets a little deformed. Due to the nature of the battery it will still work if slightly deformed.

djlogic26 - Reply

I found the plastic pull tab to be useless. Peeled pretty much the whole battery out from the left side. Used a probe to "break" a few strands of glue to help. Just watch the connector and ribbon cable in the lower left corner as you pry up so you don't crimp them or damage them.

gregsrow - Reply

DO NOT remove the battery unless absolutely necessary. If the battery is removed from the phone, DO NOT reuse it, ifixit does not seem to understand the importance of safely handling the battery

Tom Chai - Reply

Tom you have never been so wrong. Removing the battery is the FIRST step ANYONE should do before repairing or attempting repairs on their phone. The iPhone has many different grounding points in the phone and having electrical current running to it poses a massive risk, especially with ESD (ElectroStatic Discharge). People, PLEASE make sure you remove your phone's battery FIRST before doing any repairs. Use a plastic, not metal, spudger, after unhooking the battery from the logic board, place the spudger along the right side of the battery NOT under the volume buttons, about an inch and a half lower (two roughly if a sim card is present) and start prying it up using the frame as the fulcrum, as you start to lift the battery from the adhesive make sure you slide the spudger farther under to get even contact so you do not damage the battery.

Prestige Computer Solutions -

Try a used plastic credit/gift card to apply gentle pressure to lift the battery out of the phone, the short edge of the card fits within the gap on the logic board side between the battery and video cables. You can also use it on the opposite side if there is room between the battery and iPhone frame. This has worked on all of the 4 and 4s models I've replaced screens on.

I offer an alternative image if interested.

Wallace Karraker - Reply

Hello! My clients iphone 4s:n battery connector broke, when i tried accidentally take the battery out with a plastic tool from the wrong side.

Connector detached completely, so that the two middle ironcensors came with it and was stuck to the connector. When i screw the whole connector back to phone, it works with battery power, but the batterys downloading doesnt work. Are these two middle censors that are stuck in the connector exactly the ones that should be charging the battery? Do you know how i can fix this? I have already bought electrical conductor glue, but should the parts be cleaned somehow first? And how can i fix it, when the center metal sensors on the system board is also attached to the battery?

How can i clean out thiskind of part with windex? I have purchased almost all of the possible tools from iFixit and the electrical conductor glue i bought somewhere else. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/300915727408?ssP...)

SebastianK - Reply

Removing the battery wasn't necessary. I attempted the removal but decided not to in the end. It didn't get in the way at all.

BigFatCat - Reply

i also skipped the battery removal step. the battery didn't get in the way, but it did make it difficult to see if the wifi grounding fingers (step 14) were underneath the case lip. everything worked in the end though so i don't think removing the battery is a strict requirement.

rippergirl - Reply

How can you not remove the battery in a battery replacement fix? Step 14, there are only 7 steps. Me thinks these comments are getting mixed up between different fixes!

bluezzer -

I did not remove the battery to do a Speaker replacement and had no issues with getting the Speaker out/in. So, steps 4 and 5 are required but not step 6.

rcrodriguez2 - Reply

The plastic tab is not attached to the battery. I just pried from the right and slid tools under until I broke all the adhesive.

DMcG - Reply

I found it easier to start by pulling the plastic lip to loosen the battery, then, if needed, use the plastic tool to pry from the side.

superedu111 - Reply

I tried to get the battery out as depicted in the first picture. It deformed and is now broken. Not happy. It seems better to leave it or get it out by gently pulling the tab.

Paul Baars - Reply

Please, Please, PLEASE avoid using probing elements to try remove batteries. I have had dozens handed in to me with punctures and two that actually started smoking due to people trying to prise the battery out. DO NOT DO IT.

The best way I have found to remove the battery is this process;

1) Try remove it with the pull tab directly, some will come out, some will not. Do NOT use excessive pull force else it'll deform the battery and reduce the capacity.

2) If the pull test didn't work, then get a hot air gun on medium and warm up the area around the battery for about 30 seconds, focusing on the perimeter of the battery. If you see ANY popcorn'ing then you're too hot, you don't want to cook the battery.

2.1) Wait about 30 seconds for the heat to now wick underneath the battery to soften the adhesive.

2.2) Now try pull the battery up, the extra heat should have softened the glue that you can remove the battery without excessive force and without sticking objects under the battery.

Paul L Daniels - Reply

Image 1/2: Be careful not to pull the plastic pull tab too hard as it can be ripped off very easily. Image 2/2: Remove the battery.
  • Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Be careful not to pull the plastic pull tab too hard as it can be ripped off very easily.

  • Remove the battery.

  • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Be VERY careful NOT to pull off the part of the connector that is on the logic board! Mine now has only contact but no solder until I can get a small enough soldering iron and a less shaky pair of hands!

Rob Hendricks - Reply

I lost the 1.5mm and 1.7mm screws when replacing my 4s battery. Is there a place that sells just these two screws? I bought a 4s screw kit from Zeeton.com but figuring out which screw out the of 39 screws were the the 1.5mm and 1.7mm was impossible.

admin - Reply

Buy a cheap pair of digital callipers ($20 -$30) and it will be clear. You can then use them to measure all kinds of things instead of squinting with a ruler.

bluezzer -

I bent the wire of the silent button on right top of the battery. Now the silent botton don't work. The wire on the bent is half-cut. BE CAREFUL when you put the new battery inside!

orzo - Reply

Was having a hard time getting the screws back into the battery connector. Read another tip online that helped - pushed the end of my phillips screwdriver into some soft candle wax which gave it just enough stickyness to have the screw stay attached to the screwdriver while I was moving it toward the hole. Thought I'd pass that along.

bill - Reply

I did as wazzamagu did (and stated above), "My Pentalobe tool was slightly magnetized so I used that to bring the screws in for tightening with the Philips screwdriver." That made replacing the screws fairly easy. Thanks for all the advice on this page. It was not hard at all. Go slow and carefully, everything is smaller in there than I expected. The "searching" thing came up as it seems for most people, but just took a reboot and all is fine.

amorteguy - Reply

TO ALL WITH NETWORK PROBLEMS!

I had the same issue with "searching network". After resetting the network settings in settings it did work perfectly!

Klemt - Reply

Took about 15 minutes. The only thing that was confusing was the reference to parts, using the partname, and I didn't know what they were referring to. So I had to figure it out by the photos. Slightly frustrating. Got it in and it worked. My problem then, was it kept SEARCHING and couldn't find my carrier. I followed everyones advice on here, plugged phone into my computer to itunes. then turned off network settings in settings, then turned them back on, and I got 3 bars. good to go.

sally -

Instructions were good and everything works fine after replacement. Needed to use a tweezer on the pressure contact on the top screw of the battery. Thanks

jeff - Reply

I swapped out the battery today. No real issues. Pretty easy task.

ddbbsr - Reply

For the past couple of months, my phone had been dying very fast. I knew that my phone's battery capacity was getting quite low as this phone is older now, and is out of warranty. So I ordered a replacement battery about a week ago, and just installed it yesterday. The install was pretty easy, if you pay attention to where everything belongs. But my draining issue has not gone away. It stays charged a bit longer, my capacity is at almost 100%, yet it can't even hold a charge over night. I'm not sure what is causing this and would love any tips or stories from someone else!! Please help!!

loucksls92 - Reply

Beim Einbauen des neuen Akkus ist es sinnvoll diesen zuerst anzuschließen und dann erst wieder in die richtige Position zu bringen da man so dass Anschlusskabel besser verlegen kann

Andreas Richter - Reply

OMG thank you iFIXIT, the apple store wanted 3 times the cost of this repair kit. It took less than 5 minutes with most of the time spent trying to prise out the battery as it was glued in nice and tight but steady pressure from the spudger did the trick.

I think the best advice would be to touch nothing with your fingers as with careful use of the spudger I was able to position the tensioner point no problem. Everything else was nice 'n' easy.

Finally there was no cell connection only Wifi when I powered up so I simply powered down and up again and all is well in the world!

Thanks again.

Yvonne Frankl - Reply

The battery was incredibly hard to remove. I slid the spudger underneath the battery from the right side as far as it would go. Then, I worked it from the bottom to the top. The battery still was adhered and wouldn't budge using the pull tab. I wound up leaving the spudger underneath the battery at the top and then pressing down on the bottom of the battery to get leverage. After a few strong pushes, and then swapping the top and bottom in the last sentence, the old battery came loose.

I used tweezers to hold the tiny screws and align them with the screwdriver head before taking the screw to the destination hole.

One more tip.. if you don't have any other cartons or containers convenient, use the box that the product comes in as a workspace for holding the tiny screws while you work.

Steve B - Reply

good tips, i took a couple of photos so i knew what it should look like and removed the screws and placed them in the order i removed them pretty easy if you take your time and be gentle

Sam B -

Be VERY careful not to pull on the plastic tab before you fully detach the adhesive or else you will rip the tab clean off. If you did this it is still possible to remove the battery. I just used the guitar pick tool things to slowly work it through the adhesive and under the battery

Zach Mangs - Reply

It is possible to remove and replace the upper antenna WITHOUT removing the logic board!! So skip from step 7 to step 21 to 26 and 27.

What - Reply

Stuck on searching after unplugging and plugging in the battery?

This is due to the date and time being set back to default. To fix this you will need to synchronize the date and time back to what it is currently.

You can do this by either:

- Connecting the phone to either a Wi-Fi network, Cellular Network (Mobile Data).

- Connecting the phone to iTunes (It will synchronize the time automatically once iTunes is opened and can detect and access the iPhone).

Once the date and time is synced you will need to turn airplane mode off and one as it may display 'Searching... 3G' or if it still says searching (which most of the time happens if the sim card has a sim pin lock enabled on it) you will then need to turn the phone off and on.

Ben - Reply

Image 1/2: One 1.5 mm Phillips screw Image 2/2: One 1.2 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the dock connector cable cover to the logic board:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips screw

  • Remove the metal dock connector cable cover.

Are the screw sizes switche up by any chance? A 4S i have here has the left hole bigger and one of the screws didn't want to go into the right hole when it went nicely into the left one.

primozresman - Reply

Fabulous tutorial! Many thanks! i have now a working iPhone back after display crash and glass brake!

In Step 8 I think the colors of the screws are inverted. The larger screw is at the left (near the sideboard) and the smaller is in the middle, near the battery (iPhone 4S).

Markus - Reply

Was trying to fix guide but accidently messed some things up in formatting and I too also believe the picture is incorrectly displaying the 1.5mm(which is the left screw) and the 1.2mm(which is the right screw.

Mars Starcruiser - Reply

I believe the guide is correct, but be careful as the screws are not the same as the other 1.2mm screws from later on. Length is the same, but the diameter is not... just keep them all separate.

Dave - Reply

Organizer: tape cheap duct tape tacky side up to a tray. Get a ball point or roller ball pen. For every screw, write step number and a letter for color (R, O, Y, etc.) then stick the screw there. I bumped the table and nothing moved. Also use a big white towel as a work surface: nothing bounces away if you drop it. This helped re-assembly

griffn - Reply

Also remove 4 screws holding metal cover plate adjacent to camera lens, remove plate to expose camera plug. when removing the rear facing camera, be careful not to loose the small grounding finger mentioned in step 21

Robin - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the dock cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Peel the dock connector cable off the adhesive securing it to the logic board and the side of the speaker enclosure.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board. Image 2/2: De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cellular antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  • De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.

Ok, I did all the steps and phone seems to be OK, wifi is actually working again, yaaay.

But cellular connection is messed up. It will have full reception (5 pins) for about 10 seconds, then drop to 1 pin for a couple seconds, then go into "searching" mode. After a few seconds in "searching" mode it will go back to full reception and the process repeats itself in a timely fashion, over and over again. Obviously I messed up somewhere but where? Which connections are faulty/beyond repair?

Colorblend - Reply

I dismantled the phone again and concluded that the digitizer cable was kind of loose (don't know if that affected anything, but i put it down firmly this time). I had 2 problems, the cellular connection I mentioned plus the phone would charge to 3 percent, die, and then repeat the procedure. What I did was I took out the battery, the tin plate above the cables, and lifted the dock connector. So I did not redo that much. I cleaned all contact surfaces as I had been told but chose to not do before.... I also took out the grounding clip by the battery connectors and bent it upwards quite a bit while also peeling away 2 mm of the black insulation material on the back of the phone to make sure the grounding clip connects well to the back of the phone. I also cleaned that surface with window cleaner, which is basically isoprypol alcohol as has been recommended. The cellular antenna connector I pushed down firmly to make sure it was connected, I was gentler the first time, now everything works.

Colorblend - Reply

Note that the antenna cable goes around the the right side of that little guiding hook/finger. On the photo it shows the cable on the left of it. The hook is almost right below the socket.

jasperm - Reply

Image 1/2: This may require a significant amount of force. Image 2/2: Remove the SIM card and its holder.
  • Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

  • Remove the SIM card and its holder.

I have an Iphone 4 but the inerds look more like this 4S than the 4, except I do not have a SIM card port. What's up?

Dave - Reply

Probably a CDMA (Verizon) iPhone 4.

Pepper -

Is there a reason for waiting until step 18 to remove the sim card and its holder? I can do it right before I start without much force, is this not better?

jmaelzer - Reply

I don't see any reason. So it was my step 1 to remove the SIM card.

Ida -

I agree that the SIM card should be removed before you even start. After I completed this repair (waiting until this step to remove the SIM), the SIM card and holders won't go flush with the side of the phone anymore. The phone still works and everything else is fine, it's just annoying that I have a SIM holder sticking out about 1mm. I'm not certain this step caused this, but I'm just letting folks know that I agree with jmaelzer.

Song - Reply

for the life of me I can NOT get this sim card and holder out!

Lori - Reply

To be honest, it's really hard to remove SIM card without a correct tool.

Beck Sisyphus - Reply

You have to PUSH the paperclip IN, then the tray pops OUT.

Floris Jansen - Reply

I agree. Push in.

ivesrubl -

ifixit needs to edit this: "significant force" is NOT needed! I started to bend out the hole until I read the last post- just push the tool straight in, the SIM card will eject easily.

soopamandan - Reply

Is there any reason why you still have the ribbon cable under the little metalic plate (right under the sticker that says "Authorized Service Provider Only") plugged in in STEP 10. And it is without any instruction step removed in STEP 12? I mean it's not like it is complicated, but when I got to that part I was confused there for a minute that I forgot some step, and then reassured myself that I did everything as it said in the manual.

Tadeas Bucha - Reply

I have done everything correctly but when i turn the phone on all i get is a blank screen. The phone operates as normal i.e. it rings, vibrates etc but the screen is just blank so you can't actually do anything with it :(

anyone had the same issue?

mark - Reply

Image 1/2: Headphone jack/volume button cable Image 2/2: Front facing camera cable
  • Remove the five cables near the top of the logic board in the following order:

    • Headphone jack/volume button cable

    • Front facing camera cable

    • Digitizer cable

    • Display data cable

    • Power button cable (located underneath the headphone jack/volume button cable as shown in the second picture.)

  • To disconnect the cables, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently lift their connectors up and out of the sockets on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any of the small and delicate surface mount components as you disconnect the cables.

There is an additional cable that you have to disconnect that's under the headphone jack cable. You have to do this before you try to remove the logic board. Otherwise, you'll rip that cable.. and I just freaking did.

Dennis - Reply

The digitizer cable won't reach! I've already ripped it off once. which disconnect are you talking about?

kct16k -

I just ripped off the power cable ... i can live without the power button though!

Oreste Attanasio - Reply

is that sarcasm or is there really a way to turn on the phone without the power button?

Sharn de Wet -

The only way to turn on an iPhone without a power button is to plug it in to power. If it was shut down while connected to a sync cable then disconnect and reconnect for it to turn on.

ben0509 -

I just broke off the power button as well because I forgot to disconnect the cable. Thank goodness for chargers and assistive touch!

grilledsoap -

Need to remove the shield over the connectors first. Look at the other guides for the 4S they show the 4 screws and how to lift the shield out, take out the camera etc.

Paul - Reply

During reassembly, I noticed that the data display cable is rather stiff. It may be a bit tricky to get it reconnected, but you'll know once it's in.

bsporer3 - Reply

That power cable connector is very delicate. I managed to tear it just a tiny bit in the curve of the cable too. So I’ve got another part on order now. Apart from that the screen replacement went great ;) I’m not sure at which step the tear actually happened, it might have been during re-assembly when I was trying to get all these cables to stay on top of rather than go behind the motherboard. Realizing how easy that is to tear and keeping that in mind as you do this is important.

james - Reply

I ripped the power button cable(didn't see it), any chance it could be outlined with a dotted color in the future? (I'm bad at reading the warnings)

Eli Goethel - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the grounding clip to the logic board near the headphone jack.

During reassembly, note that this small 1.5 mm screw goes into a thread in the head of the larger 4.8 mm standoff screw near the headphone jack.

gregm - Reply

Image 1/2: Carefully grasp the grounding clip and remove it from the iPhone. Image 2/2: Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the grounding clip ('''not''' the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the small grounding clip up off the logic board.

  • Carefully grasp the grounding clip and remove it from the iPhone.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the grounding clip (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

(be careful but gently forceful; the part doesn't come out without effort)

Carol Wade - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use a standoff bit or a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff near the headphone jack.

I used a metal spudger from the Pro Tech Toolkit to remove the standoff, seemed to work better for me than a flathead screwdriver.

Dirk Blom - Reply

The flathead screwdriver provided is much too small to remove this piece!

gluethje76 - Reply

I recommend that steps 20 and 21 are swapped. It's much easier to remove the wifi antenna flex from the board using the blue spudger if the board/PCB is still secured with the 4.8mm screw.

Removing the screw first makes the PCB move up too much when you're trying to detach the wifi flex and can lead to mishaps.

Paul L Daniels - Reply

Not all screwdrivers are equal. I took mine in the shop and ground the blade thinner then made sure the end was square and flat. You can do this with an emery board or sand paper. You want a good fit in the stand-offs.

griffn - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna from the logic board.

Great Guide and thanks. Now...what if i snapped the wifi antenna cable together with its male connector from the board? Like tearing it apart ? Can this be replaced by any chance? Thanks!

spyrosandreou - Reply

I also had a problem with the connector breaking off, but after putting everything together, the WiFi seems to work like before, so I guess there is no problem there...

Dirk Blom - Reply

Ok so no fret here if you accidentally pull off the metal insert placed on top of the actual antenna. This step needs to be rewritten imo, the deal here is that there is an actual 'socket' looking deal underneath here that you need to lift up. There is a metal tab semi'glued' to that part of the antenna and it does come off easily, however all you need to do is press them back together to get them back, I believe it to be a range 'extender' of sorts.

So your looking to actually lift up what looks a lot like a ribbon cable as well in this step. YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE A PIECE REMOVED IN THIS STEP, it's still in the case at this point.

Ben - Reply

I have connected my wifi antenna to the phone but when my phone switches on the wifi button is a grey colour and won't let me turn it on, help?

melissamerin -

Image 1/2: Remove the 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the logic board near the power button. Image 2/2: (Use caution when removing this screw and removing the power contact held by it; the contact tab will come loose with the screw)
  • If present, peel the piece of black tape covering the hidden screw near the power button.

  • Remove the 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the logic board near the power button.

    • (Use caution when removing this screw and removing the power contact held by it; the contact tab will come loose with the screw)

  • Notice the small rubber bumper under the screen & digitizer cables (which are detached at top above the Q-code). This bumper can fall off of the logic board when removed or get stuck to the cables and fall off later.

Dimension given are Length of screw. I think it meant to say 2.6mm screw.

Jon - Reply

Note that there is a rubber insulator that is loosely attached to the PBC that can be seen in the upper right corner of the red outline near the tag with Q5M on it. It falls off after the logic board is removed and should be replaced before reassembly.

ghodges - Reply

where the heck does it go back on the logic board?! It fell off during removal and I cant seem to locate it in the pictures. :(

Shaun Brown -

As noted: Put the bumper back right above the white bar code label. The label says Q5M on the far right side. The bumper goes on the edge of the board to protect the ribbon cables that bend over the board.

griffn -

So, my 2.6 Philips screw near the power cable just spins and spins. It happened the first time, so I know I didn't strip it. Any ideas?

thebacks - Reply

So, I couldn't gind the tape and instead of digging around. I did what no one should do. I twisted and pulled. So now the screw that holds the upper left corner on broke that part of the logic board off. Everything else went back great....Phone won't turn on. Am I screwed here?

cdays01 - Reply

step 13 - “One 1.3 mm Phillips screw”

step -22 “Notice the small rubber bumper under the screen & digitizer cables (which are detached at top above the Q-code)”

“Note that there is a rubber insulator that is loosely attached to the PBC that can be seen in the upper right corner of the red outline near the tag with Q5M on it”

now, the problem :-)

while assembly the iPhone I screw by mistake the 2.6 mm instead of the 1.3, and without noticing I break the 1.3 base screw from the motherboard :-/

Now, the rear camera is not working.

I couldn't figure in the picture above, if the rubber bumper you mean, is under that screw or above the Q5M tag ?

Can it be that the dewar camera don’t work because of that broken screw?

Any idea how to fix it?

Is there any option to buy the rubber bumper, if I lost it ?

Appreciate any help,

thanks!!

Simon - Reply

Under the screw is a ground clip from step 25. I tweezed it out here since it might bounce free while pulling logic board out. Use a big white towel as a work surface to prevent wayward bouncing bits from flying off the table.

griffn - Reply

Caution: the image with the QR code is "mirrored" --> look at it "reversed" !

jacquesfforster - Reply

Image 1/1: One 2.5 mm Phillips screw near the vibrator motor
  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the case:

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips screw near the vibrator motor

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

    • One 3.6 mm standoff along the side of the logic board nearest the battery opening.

  • Use a standoff driver bit or a small flathead screwdriver to remove the single 3.6 mm standoff screw.

I used a metal spudger from the Pro Tech Toolkit to remove the standoff, seemed to work better for me than a flathead screwdriver.

Dirk Blom - Reply

The Kit Provided flat head screw driver didn't fit in the stand off screw heads on my IPhone 4s. I had to use it in only one side of the screw notch to slowly twist them out. Its doable but could use a larger flat head, but the blade needs to be micro thin.

Clay - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the logic board.
  • Carefully lift the logic board from the end closest to the speaker enclosure and slide it away from the top edge of the iPhone.

  • Remove the logic board.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the logic board (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

  • There is a small rubber bumper that sits on the top edge of the logic board where the digitizer and screen cables come through the case. It protects the cables as they bend over the top of the logic board. This can either get stuck to the cables or fall off the logic board when it comes out. Look back over step 22 for more details.

After I had lifted the logic board and moved around a little a small rubber piece fell off. Approx. 1 cm long and 2 mm wide. I'm guessing it's for some sort of isolation between the board and the chassis. Where should it go when I reassemble the phone?

The piece I'm referring to can be seen on the table in the upper right corner in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVQtgD89e...

Simon Fransson - Reply

It sits between the logic board top-edge and the two ribbon leads from the screen. Its purpose is to stop the PCB cutting in to the FPC leads over time due to vibrations. If you require I can send a photo.

Paul L Daniels -

hey, i removed the logic board and gave it a bit isopropanol spray. is this ok? how can i found out if it is working? is it possible to remove something from the logic board? thank you :)

bne - Reply

On reassembly, make sure you lift up the power button cable before installing circuit board. I thought I had all of the cables lifted until after getting to step 17 (in reverse) only to find out power cable was under the circuit board. Added 15 minutes to my process.

juanocasio - Reply

I had a similar problem as I was back tracking steps to perform something I missed and actually broken the power and sensor cable (the one that is connected to the digital board first during re-installation. A secondary order and another 20 minutes took care of it. Glad you were able to not hit that barrier.

mattwilber -

On reassembly, you are putting the plate under the spaghetti. I went back a few times to get all the cables out. Here is a check list before you tighten any logic board screws or try to jam the top edge of the board in place:

Counter clockwise from upper right near power button:

- Wi-Fi Cable from step 21

- 5 cables near the camera from step 17.The ‘blue’ power cable underneath loves to hide. The ‘orange’ front facing camera cable can get kinked under the board during re-install (no more selfies on this phone).

- Dock cable from step 9

- Cell Antenna from step 11

Go slow. Look twice.

griffn - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button. This finger rests on top of the PCB, screwed down, and covered with the adhesive black plastic tape.

if I LOSE it, what will happen?

Actually, i DID lose it.

XuKaimeng - Reply

Hi. This little clip is responsible for the image stabilization on the 4S. When the iPhone 4S was launched, one of the things that were different from iPhone 4 was Image Stabilization, specially when the user was filming. This clip holds the camera module in place while the phone is shaking in the hands of the user. Pretty high tech :D

Pedro de Almeida Silva Chaves -

Apparently it had uncovered my iPhone before, because when I did not find this piece uncapped here. I need to know which function is on the iPhone and if it is very important. How could I get?

Raul Tejada - Reply

Hi, I had the phone apart to replace the wifi chip.

Has anyone found a source for the two nano sized SMD resistors, because this also causes "no wifi" syndrome due to them being important for the I2C lines.

thanks!!! -A email testing_h "at " yahoo.com

Andre De Guerin - Reply

I think this is one of the parts I didn't put back in... Does it affect anything?

Also, Took apart my iPhone 4S to fix the screen and battery... Now the camera light doesn't turn on and I'm left with two pieces. Help!

Here are the parts: http://imgur.com/DsYtdlR

Nicole - Reply

Left part: See step 5 - "Take notice of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector".

Right part: See step 25 - "Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button".

Simon Fransson -

I removed this in step 22 even though it only slightly alluded to it. If you did, too, don't panic. Go find your step 22 parts and verify it is there. :)

christopherjwells - Reply

What are the consequences of losing the 'small grounding finger for the rear view camera'?

3chris3rivers3 - Reply

Hi. This little clip is responsible for the image stabilization on the 4S.

Pedro de Almeida Silva Chaves -

I did it. No problems!!!

I used a Tupperware orange peeler as a plastic opening tool and didn't touched any screws oder other inner parts.

I had to do it two times, because my old 4S 64GB has a broken WLAN Chip on the logic board, and my wifes 4S has broken her display glass. So I took her logic board into my 4S body. Now we have one running iPhone 4S 64GB instead of two broken phones.

HaJo - Reply

HELP! Miy clip does look different, and i have no idea how to fit it in

slipknot660 - Reply

This little piece was missing when I opened my phone, seems it was lost last time I sent it to the repair shop for screen replacement.. :-( but it does take pictures

Jose Fernandez - Reply

Image 1/3: Now we can see the Murata  SS1830010 chip. Image 2/3: Now we can see the Murata  SS1830010 chip. Image 3/3: Now we can see the Murata  SS1830010 chip.
  • Remove the adhesive protection on the Wi-Fi/bluetooth chip.

  • Now we can see the Murata SS1830010 chip.

Argh, seems that my connector was loose. I pulled the cable up and the ring on the connector came off. Here a picture. Hope you can see it.

http://s14.directupload.net/images/14061...

I did this repair several times. Never happend to me. Any idea if I can rescue the connector or should I buy a new FPC Connector, because I think the rest of the connector is still on the board? Anyone did a resolder with success?

tarsonis - Reply

I didn't take the board out, just the battery and metal shield and sticker over the wifi chip... also didnt replace the chip...

i finally upgraded my 4S to IOS 8.3, and after a few weeks the wifi dies...

So i pulled the back off, took out a few screws and a sticker off of the wifi chip to expose the metal top of the chip. heated it with a soldering iron (a few seconds) until it was very hot to the touch...

Put it back together and it works again... thanks internet community!

Max Power - Reply

Image 1/3: Protect the logic board with ''Kapton tape'' that has good insulating and temperature characteristics (temperature range: −269 to +400 °C). Image 2/3: Protect the logic board with ''Kapton tape'' that has good insulating and temperature characteristics (temperature range: −269 to +400 °C). Image 3/3: Protect the logic board with ''Kapton tape'' that has good insulating and temperature characteristics (temperature range: −269 to +400 °C).
  • Put the logic board in a PCB holder or small vise, to safely hold it while reflowing (it's going to get hot!).

  • Protect the logic board with Kapton tape that has good insulating and temperature characteristics (temperature range: −269 to +400 °C).

Is there an alternative for Kapton Tape? Like some layers oven paper and aluminium paper over it?

tarsonis - Reply

You can reflow without the tape. If you pay attenction you can easly reflow only the chip. The masking tape is just for do not heat the components near the chip..

Andrea Giannone - Reply

Thanks. Ok I'm trying it right now. For security I put oven paper and on top of that aluminium paper over the areas which should not get to hot. I preflowed them to see if they stand the temperature. Seems to work. I report back

tarsonis -

Image 1/1: The nozzle's size must be 1/2 or 1/4 of the chip size.
  • Now we need a hot air rework station with a small nozzle:

    • The nozzle's size must be 1/2 or 1/4 of the chip size.

I used an old "Tin welding gun 80W" instead.

Put it really close to the chip and waited for about 4 min.

It works for me.

Tomo Syue - Reply

Can i use a hairdryer instead because i dont have that tool...?

Erin - Reply

Hairdryer dont reach 300 C. So you dont damage other components. Try it and tell us if it work. Sometimes you can fix the problem simply putting the phone under a lamp for 20 minutes (also without take off the rear cover) so i think that you have a 60-70% success..good luck

Andrea Giannone - Reply

None of my friends have the air reflow station. Could anyone please tell if I can use a soldering iron to heat the chip instead? Is it supposed to reflow correctly with a soldering iron attached to it for some time?

trydovick - Reply

Well I didn't wait for a response and reflowed the chip with my 40 wt soldering iron and surprisingly it worked! I continuously moved soldering tip across the chip surface for about 5 minutes and then repeated after 2 min break. Now both wifi and bluetooth work perfect. Thanks for the guide!

trydovick -

I took @trydovic's advice and used a 25W soldering iron and some heat transfer paste. Worked perfectly!

Thanks for the great guide @Andrea.

Simon McKenzie - Reply

I baked the board in the oven at 385F for 7 min then turned off the oven, opened the door and let cool for 1 hour without touching. Reassembled. Worked perfect first try!!!

Lewis Biggs - Reply

Image 1/3: Set a low air flow: 1 or 2 (on a 1 to 7 scale). Image 2/3: Now, doing circular movement, you have to reflow for 4-5 minutes. Image 3/3: Be careful to reflow only the Wi-Fi chip and not any of the surrounding ICs or circuits.
  • Edit: the correct temperature is almost 180-200 °C because around the chip there is a little black protection that can go under the chip.

  • Set a low air flow: 1 or 2 (on a 1 to 7 scale).

  • Now, doing circular movement, you have to reflow for 4-5 minutes.

  • Be careful to reflow only the Wi-Fi chip and not any of the surrounding ICs or circuits.

  • After 5 minutes, gradually decrease the temperature from 200 to 0 °C.

Thanks for the guide! This inspired me to make this: https://youtu.be/A4n0j3uaS7E

Casey Sanders - Reply

Pb-free solders have typical melting temperature around 200-220 °C so 200 °C is never enough to properly REFLOW the chip - you basically just heat the thing up which probably causes some deformation and helps to make the contact between pins again.

As for real reflow, use 200 °C temp for first 90 sec (ideally you want to increase the chip temperature no faster than 3 °C/sec up to 200 °C), then ramp-up to 260 °C for 60 (max. 120) sec (this causes the real reflow), and then cool the thing down using 100 °C air for next 1-2 mins (or just leave it to cool down freely.

lukaskozesnik - Reply

Image 1/1: Remember to put on the protective sticker back on the Wi-Fi chip before reassembling the phone.
  • After reflowing, wait ten minutes to allow the logic board to cool before handling it.

  • Remember to put on the protective sticker back on the Wi-Fi chip before reassembling the phone.

What does reflow the chip mean.? It doesnt say in the tutorial

Shannon Bradford - Reply

Reflow it means re-heat the chip. There are small solder points under it. With the correct temperature you can fix a broked solder point

Andrea Giannone -

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Here is the final result.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: In the first image, the Wi-Fi color is light grey (not working). Image 2/2: In the second image, the Wi-Fi color is dark grey (working).
  • These are the pictures before and after the reflow:

    • In the first image, the Wi-Fi color is light grey (not working).

    • In the second image, the Wi-Fi color is dark grey (working).

I did it! Works perfectly. Thank you very much for this guide. A friend gave me his reflow station and I was a little bit anxious to destroy something because I never did reflowing before , but then I just tried it and it simply works.

drbrinkmann - Reply

I did it, too. Worked.

...Thing is: After 12 days the problem reappeared!

I did it with a hot air gun instead of a reflow station. Set it to around 300 °C but kept distance of 1 - 2 cm to Wifi chip. Maybe too little heat?

Did it reappear in other guy's cases? How did you solve it?

Thanks!

Alex

PS I filmed the whole thing with my gopro to upload a video guide which I fortunately haven't done yet. oO

Alex Holzhey - Reply

Hi,try to reflow it again for 15 mins at 350c. If not works again, you have to buy a new wifi chip, re heat the old chip and pull out with tweezers. Apply a solder flux, Put the new chip, and solder it on the motherboard using the reflow method. 300-350c for 15mins, the n check if is solder good on the phone then turn it on.

Andrea Giannone - Reply

Grazie Andrea per la tua risposta.

Guess what, it was disabled (grayed out) only half a day. from now on it is working again.

I will repeat as prposed if it reappears.

Thanks again.

Alex Holzhey -

Ok, worked! Great thanks! I first tried the usual stuff then I tried the hair dryer method which worked with another i4s, but not with this one.

I didn't have Kapton tape, so I used oven paper and aluminium paper on top of it to cover the mainboard around the chip. Also I didn't have a reflow station and used a hot air gun instead which has adjustable temperature control with display. I took the smallest cap which was a bit larger than the chip. Then reflowed it with the given timings and temperature reduction. Works and I hope for ever.

tarsonis - Reply

You can do this without any masking tape.. you can use a gair dryer, if you have a thermometer is better.. i have fixed 6-7 phone using this method. only one guy, every 3 months come for a new fix.. on that phone i can't do a permanent fix. this guy always go to ski, so the temperature broke the soldering and i have to reflow it sometimes.

che chip have many little pin on the bottom side, reflowing it, you have to desolder and resolder for make it work..maybe the chip is broked, so for fix it, you have to buy a new chip, heat the old chip, take it off, clean the surface, put the new chip and reflow it.. is more difficult..

you can do it for 30 minutes.. the chip will survive to the hot temperature.. i use 280-350°. the solder wire have the fusion at almost 300°C so you can do for 20-30 minutes.. i dont know if the hairdriver can reach that temperature..

P.S. sorry for my bad english :9 i hope you can undertand my words

Andrea Giannone -

Help!

I did exactly all these steps but after re-assembling, the phone (iphone 4s) doesn't turn on or charge anymore...

What could be wrong ? I've only heated the chip with a reflow station at 300°C like said in the tutorial :s

nolain - Reply

do you have another phone? can you try to swap the lcd, battery and motherboard with another, maybe the battery is low or the lcd connector is damaged

Andrea Giannone -

Awsome guide Andrea. It did perferctly. Mitttttico!!!

.

JUST ONE REMARK:

My iPhone 4S wi-fi was not grayed out. It could be activated and scan for networks but no any network was found. This solution solved it out. I did Exactly as the guide. While welding keep the nozzle around 1cm form the Murtata chip and in the last minute at the lower temperature (250°) I moved a bit far to reduce any possible thermal shock. This is just a caution. 10 e lode!

Gian Paolo - Reply

Nolain, try to clean the lcd conector. If this not help try another lcd.

Gabriel - Reply

my iphone 4s with this Bluetooth just Running the wifi that is not what can I do ?

Gutemberg Rocha - Reply

WORKED.

I cut back quite a few of the steps and did it slightly differently though

I simply took the back plate off, moved the battery aside, took out maybe 5 of the screws near the top until I could pop off that plate that wraps around the top left. Once those were off the WiFi module was completely exposed. I took a razor blade and sliced the tape off the chip and took my soldering iron and ran it around in circles for about 5 minutes, VERY CAREFULLY I might add, since I never took the actual phone apart.

Once it cooled off, I reapplied the tape, used the semi-hot soldering iron to adhere the tape back on, then re attached the plate, screws and backplate, fired the phone up... Wifi works like a charm now.

This all took me 15 minutes tops.

dudeitskevin - Reply

Did you run the iron on or above the chip, and at what temperature?

rjvbertin -

To add;

Fantastic instructions. I fixed my 4S with this.

Instead of the rework heat gun, I used a flat attachment onto a soldering iron and rubbed it over the top of the chip (actually making contact). 185 Celcius, for about 5 minutes.

I did take the logicboard out and secured it in a small vice to do this.

Sam Attwood -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

142 other people completed this guide.

Andrea Giannone

Member since: 02/12/2014

4,503 Reputation

3 Guides authored

94 Comments

Mille grazie, Andrea! I completed the repair thanks to your awesome Guide. Could it be you forgot to describe disassembly of the camera + surroundings? I took it out, too.

However, thank you,

Alex

Alex Holzhey - Reply

Feel free to describe...

floresc -

you dont need to take out the surrounding and the vibrator, you have just to take out the motherboard, so u dont need to do that..

the camera yes, you have to pull out. im sorry

Andrea Giannone -

reply to @Alex Holzhey

Thank you! i'm happy to hear this. and i'm glad to know that my guide is useful. anyway i have done a "copy and paste" for the first 20 steps, so i dont care about if something is the guide is missing..i think that if someone wanna try this guide, he have to know a little how to disassemble his phone. :)

Thanks again

Andrea Giannone - Reply

Congratulations!!! It works perfectly!! Step by step following your guide and everything is fine.

Thank you

Gilson Russo

São Paulo Brasil

giruss - Reply

i !@#$%^ up my iphone.. doesnt start anymore :/

niilo - Reply

I'd say first try the fridge method and the network reset before decommissioning your iPhone's hardware. Here are a few other things you can do to try and solve the wifi issue: http://www.copytrans.net/blog/how-to-fix...

Mary Loakins - Reply

It amuses me to no end that putting my phone in the freezer solved my problem (going on two weeks now). Can you explain the technical reason for that? You mention above it's a temporary fix, perhaps it is but it's been a LONG temporary so far.

I didn't have the tools for doing the reflow so I ordered a new WiFi PC board ($25 versus about $90 for all the tools) - so if the time comes, I'll just swap it out.

Thank you for your guide!

JamieClay - Reply

i think that under the chip there are some small point that have to be solder on the motherboard.. with a reflow you make hot and the chip will solder to the motherboard.. but probably this is wrong, i dont know why the cold temperature fix the problem.. maybe the chip works in a range of temperature that you fix using hot or cold air.. i only know that a high thermal shock will make this chip KO.

have you bought a new murata chip for the wifi connection?? and how you think that you can solder on the motherboard without a air gun?

it haven't a flex cable..

Andrea Giannone -

I ordered the full PC board with the WiFi and Bluetooth on it - no soldering involved. Anyway, I do appreciate the 'freezer' tip. I may never have to swap out the PC board, we'll see.

JamieClay -

Really? Only use a pentalobe bit once other wise it strips? Maybe with iFixits cheap tools, but get yourself a nice Wiha set and you'll never have to worry about it. I am a cell technician and have been using Wiha tools for the last 8 years, THE SAME SET I STARTED WITH 8 YEARS AGO! I bought a iFixit set, and the PH000 stripped the first day I got it. So I can only imagine how crumby the iFixit pentalobe must be. But anyway, good article, good pictures. Some people are making it out to be harder than it is. Just take your time, make sure you put the screws in a place where they will not get lost and you will be fine.

Bob Bigglesworth - Reply

Hello guys. I fixed this problem just by reseting my phone in DFU mode.

here is a link that shows how to do it.

http://www.iclarified.com/entry/?enid=10...

Serea Ionut Bogdan - Reply

Just wasted 3 hours with the DFU reset. Same problem persists. So frustrating. It seems like a hardware problem because I tried putting the phone in the freezer and the wireless worked for like 10 minutes. I'm confident this heat flowing would work, but it's a lot of work which tells me this is a hardware problem, but if that's true, then why did my wireless stop working immediately after installing iOS 7? That would suggest it's a software issue. What the !&&*?

miketkong -

Thank you Very much.

Step by step was excellent, I did not have the the insulating tape or rework tool. Used electrical tape to cover all surrounding IC's kept the board suspended for good ventilation all around and used a blow-dryer oscillating as recommended.

Reversed all the steps for re-assembly and instant WiFi on power up.

Thank you

MG

Manny - Reply

Hi guy.I want to ask some quetions.my 4s also wifi greyed out and i'm so dissapointing about tht problem.some guys say it was about sw+hw problem.So,if i change the wifi chip following this method,wifi is working back agin in this bad ios(mind is 7.1).plz comment me.i need help:(

Aung Khant maw - Reply

Hi guys.

i want to ask some question.my 4s wifi also greyed out and i'm so dissapointing about that problem.few ppl said it was about hw+sw problem.so,if i change the wifi chip following that method,my wifi will be back agin in this bad ios(mind is 7.1).plz comment me guys.i need help:(

Aung Khant maw - Reply

Hi. Try a reflow first. Change the chip is harder to do. Just heat it. If not work, you can try to buy a new one. This method is not 100% working, i have fixed something like 15-20 phones, 3-4 phones after 2-3 months need another reflow. And only 1 phone is unfixable

Andrea Giannone -

I have a question that Maybe some one has asked already, but I cannot see it: Can you do the reflow without removing the logic board and covering everything else with the tape to protect from the high temperature?

javi - Reply

If you use a small tool, you can do without any tape. I have fixed one simply putting under a lamp (table lamp) without taking off the back cover..

If you will use max 300c you dont make any problem to the mainboard.

For desolder a connector/smd/chip, you need 350-400c.. if possible remove the shield that cover the LCD/touch/camera/power/volume connector, and then remove also the black tape that cover the Wi-Fi chip.. remember to turn off the phone and remove the battery

Andrea Giannone -

Thanks a million! I bought the heat reworkstation on Amazon and was able to fix my iPhone 4s! I hope this fix lasts a while. I had been doing the blowdryer trick but that was only lasting a few days.

Magnum Bulla - Reply

I had this problem for a couple of weeks and therefore ordered a new phone. When I removed the sim card (the phone was on and I was logged on to the sim card, i.e. could call etc) to put it into the new phone a noticed that the Wifi started yet again when the sim card had been removed. I do not know if this is only temporary or if the problem got fixed by removing the sim card when the phone was on but you could try at least.

Fredrik - Reply

Awesome guide and WIFI is working again.

Emanuele - Reply

already made ​​a mockery of the wifi antenna 's All Over STILL DOES NOT work !!!

my volume buttons also do not respond are the vibrate it has aver with wifi?

Gutemberg Rocha - Reply

vibrate, volume audio jack are not connected with the wifi chip.. this guide don't work on all phones.. sometimes the chip is really broked.

this solution is not permanent and sometimes do dot work

Andrea Giannone -

Help! My iphone 4s - says Searching. But have wifi on. Strange. How I can fix it? I am not sure if sim card is bad or weaking.

Lori - Reply

hi, first try another sim, or try ytour sim on another phone, then check if the antenna cables are connetted on the motherboard, and remember that if you remove the battery, the date of the phone go to 1 jan 1970, and until you set che curent dat/hour, the phone dont recognize the sim card. try first to set the correct date/hour, then remove and insert the sim card. trust me, it will work

Andrea Giannone -

Hi everyone,

Did carefully all steps. Resoldering was made with a heat gun set on 250°C with an aluminum home-made nozzle.

Even all this, after it was mounted back, iPhone didn't start anymore. No image, no sound when plug. iTunes doesn't see it either and it doesn't appears in the USB tab in System Profiler. Tried to hard reset, but nothing. The only thing is the iPhone is getting hot.

A detail too: when I reassemble the iPhone, the antenna clips plug near the WiFi chips was unsolder - as for many user, I just put it back in place and it hold pressed by the little black metallic piece.

Do you have some recommendation to troubleshoot this?

Thanks

niclet - Reply

hi, i have already seen this problem. sometimes the reflow can break the wifi chip, the problem is that when you turn on the phone, that chip became very hot and the phone will turn off.. i solved removing that chip from the motherboard and throw it in the basket!

Andrea Giannone -

Dear Andrea,

You nailed it! I unsold and removed the chip. Now the iPhone start and work smoothly. It just doesn't have its WiFi and Bluetooth functionality anymore.

Question: is it possible to get a new chip and resold it… for the experience and knowledge I mean! Or should I get a new motherboard!

Thanks again!

niclet - Reply

good! im happy that my guide works!

you can easly find the new chip on aliexpress or alibaba..

you can simply search on google "aliexpress SW SS1830010 Wi-Fi"

the price is very low, you can try to buy 2 or 3 chip, clean the motherboard using a solder iron and a solder flux and then clean with isopropyl alcool.

put again a solder flux on the motherboard, and with the solder iron (flatted) you can remake the solder points simpy passing the solder iron on the motherboard, then you appli again the solder flux, you put the new ic connector on the right place (i think is the most difficult part) and re-heat, maybe using 380-400°C for 3-4 minutes.. then you can check if the wifi chip is sticked good on the MB and try to turn on the phone..

P.S. check on the motherboard if you have all the solder points in good condition.. maybe when you took off the old chip you broked something or some "metal connector" between the chip and the motherboard

Andrea Giannone -

my iphone 4s with this Bluetooth just Running the wifi that is not what can I do my name is kha

khadim ndiaye - Reply

There is few steps missing actually.. But I did't wrote them down, sorry. Nevertheless, they are pretty common sense. ;)

ps. Actually this is second time I did that repair. Just after the first one, after a while wifi went down (bluetooth still were working). So I did those steps once again and wifi is up and running. Again.. :) Yiiiihaaaa!!! :)

ps1. my rework device Yihua 8786D when set on 300C by Thermo reader showed only 150 or so, but that reader also is Chinese crap so I don't give a dime that it's wrong. Anyone tried measure that? Should it really blow set temp?

Vatevaaa - Reply

Hi, I managed to fix the Wifi problem reflowing the Murata SS1830010 chip. After that I have an other issue... My iphone does not find my provider (is always searching)... and yes, sim card is properly installed and antenna is in place. Any suggestions?

Nick

Nikos - Reply

Yes, usually when you remove the battery, the date of the phone go to 1 jan 1970. Until you set the current time/date, you dont have signal..

Connect to the wifi, wait until the time will set correctly, then remove and reinstall the sim card. If dont work, reboot the phone without the sim, check the hour, then put again the sim card

Andrea Giannone -

I reboot the phone anw works fine!! Great tutorial thanks!!

Nikos -

good solution , bro... worked fine for me. hope it last. just follow the steps and should work for enyone

alex - Reply

it works :) thanks a lot you are the best. im glad for ur hlp

azarhoun - Reply

good job! working 100%, We observed temperature 300 degrees Celsius ,5 minutes and it worked

cimpoiasu marius - Reply

this technique works bang on !!!

thanks for the fix i now have wifi turned on :D:D

Smit - Reply

FORGET THESE INSTRUCTIONS. Your NETWORK has altered your phone settings.

Put a sim in the phone for a different network and you will see it working.

Owen Warren - Reply

I dont think so

Andrea Giannone -

I have this problem.. but on my Iphone 5s. Can I use this guide to my Iphone 5s, or is this guide only to Iphone 4s?

Richard Aitman - Reply

I think yes but the wifi chip is a little bit harder to find. Is under the shield. You have to desolder the shield and reflow it. Check first if there is any antenna disconnected

Andrea Giannone -

WORKED !!!!!

Tried to cool and then Freeze it but no the easy way never works. popped the back off and just took a heat gun, a bit at a time, to the Murata SS1830010 chip in mention, but just enough so my finger would get burned when touching it, let it cool a bit turned on the phone and Whaalah it worked. Amazing thing this is almost like cold solder not sticking component's and having to be reworked. My hats off to you!!!!!!!!! ***** ;-)

Gilbert Ferro - Reply

If nobody has mentioned this fix, try it. It worked on my wife's phone.

Settings > Privacy > Location Services >System Services and turn off wifi networking and reboot.

drdougkenney - Reply

This actually worked for me. Was worried about not being technical enough to follow these instructions (and don't have the equiptment), so was relieved that this worked. Thanks

jmulder2001 -

I left to the fridge for 30 min nothing happened. I ve left it for 4 hours and it works... i dont believe it :D

Nikos P - Reply

should the iPhone be turned off when it's in the fridge??

Irish Villar -

Who ever found this, did an excellent job and is a genius. Thanks for sharing/finding this out bro...the iphone 4s wifi works like a charm...thanks a million...few easy steps like dismounting camera and removing the metal plate securing the cable connectors by unscrewing 4 screws is missing but other than that all the screenshots and instructions are precisely defined!

Bhavesh - Reply

thanks, im happy you solved with my guide.. remember is not a permanent fix, but is the best solution to do at home

Andrea Giannone -

registered on ifxit just to say 'thanks a million' to this guide...hats off

Bhavesh - Reply

Forgot to mention...i did it with a blow dryer n electrical tape but wrapped the whole board except the chip under atleast 2 loose layers of tape so if the top melts the 2nd will protect but none melted and did it for 5 mins on high setting

Bhavesh - Reply

Worked for me too :) happy man , thank you

Krabi - Reply

Nobody in their right mind would follow your instructions.

I think you are a troll wanting people to destroy their phone.

Barry Jones - Reply

hi, i think that on 500k users that have used my guide, maybe 2 or 3 have no fixed the problem. anyway this guide is made by me, a professional fixer that have 2 shops where me, and my team, fix about 30-50 phones per day..

we have all schematicts, and all solutions for fix any kind of problem, and i decides to share our "secrets".

this guide is the easy way to fix this problem at home, is not workin 100% but the method is correct..

if you read all the guide you can discover that this is a semi permanent fix, the right way is to replace the chip, but without a professional machines is impossible to so, and is very hard..

sorry for my english, im italian

if you have any question, im here for you

best regards, Andrea

Andrea Giannone -

I found a new solution that worked for my iPhone 6 with iOS 9 http://www.unlockboot.com/2015/09/how-to...

Stephan Popov - Reply

The other one possible solution - https://digitalunlocking.com/news/, there you will find dozens of tutorials

dornalen -

put mine in the refrigerator for 15 minutes and it worked :) , since you said it's temporary how long will it take to go back to that state? thank you!

Lennon Kagunha - Reply

It worked for me for a couple of weeks, between 2 and 3 months. I reflowed the chip with 200 c like in step 25. Should I try to reflow the chip with more heat (250-285 c) like in the picture?

anonymous 6068 - Reply

hi, nope, you dont have to reach 200 c..

reflow it again staying on 185 celsius.. maybe reflow for 10 minutes but always under 200 degrees

Andrea Giannone -

Thank You, I will try.

anonymous 6068 -

I repaired it today, let's hope it will last.

anonymous 6068 -

Last saturday (december 5) it began to be grayed out again, for some hours. After a few hours it was working again. Since wednesday (december 9) it is grayed out. Any suggestion?

anonymous 6068 -

Great Guide! It works! This is the FIRST time I dissembled an Iphone ever and it surprised me, that it worked for me right away. Spending 3 hours to repair my Iphone 4s is absolutely worth it. During repairing there were some difficulties but finally my WIFI works again. It was great fun to do it! Thanks a lot!

Xia - Reply

WORKED JUST FINE for me. I used a general-purpose heating gun (NOT a hairdryer). The parts of the logic board not interested in the reflowing were protected with Kapton tape and sheets of glass-fiber material. Temperature was set at 185 C for 5 min and checked with a thermometer close to the chip to ensure no over-heating was occurring.

Francesco - Reply

better??? imposible..

jsmithcooper - Reply

I heated top of my iphone 4(where is speaker gap) with a heat gun. Be careful not to overheat display! Once phone warned me that phone is overheated I turned off phone and put it in my fridge. Then turned on and setup wi-fi. woala it's works!

Marian Hudec - Reply

Tnx for this useful guide! (and comments!)

I 'flowed' my iphone 4s 3 times already — with succes...

But: This greyed WiFi button keeps coming back... (So it only works for a week or so...)

What is the next step to solve this decently?

Anyone a suggestion?

=;\

zzepposs - Reply

I have been repairing several phones and this is one of the most craziest fix to try (I thought). I already tried all resets and bla bla bla. Wi-Fi stayed grayed out and BT was not working.

I did take the motherboard out but didn't secure or cover it with any tape. Tried above method using hot air blower in some random temperature (I guess it was about 150-300'c), for ~3 minutes...and it worked! Wi-Fi and BT are back in business. Amazing :)

Great instructions. Many thanks!

Hardy Nilsson - Reply

THANK YOU! I placed my phone in the refrig. for 15 mins. and I can now use my wifi again! Life saver!

keshrene - Reply

I can see my screen light up from the back but the screen itself is blacked out... what did not go right?

Debbie - Reply

Help!

My screen won't come on when I turn the iphone on, what do I have to go back and re-do?

Debbie - Reply

You have first to try a new screen. Maybe you damaged the flat of the lcd.

If the new screen will not show the image, you have broked something on the motherboard. You can figure out but is not simple to fix a motherboard if you dont know what are you trying to do.

Anyway im pretty sure that you broked tour lcd

Andrea Giannone -

I am convinced from all that I've read from various sources that this is an Apple engineering problem. It apparently is caused by some kind of temperature sensor in the iPhone triggered by an iPhone iOS update. Unfortunately this has never been resolved by subsequent iOS updates. I'm up to version 9.3.2 and Apple still has not addressed the problem with an update to iOS.

The best permanent solution I've heard of is to replace the WiFI antenna component BUT this is too much work.

Instead I chose a simpler (possibly less temporary) solution to just cool down my iPhone to trigger the temperature sensor logic in the iPhone.

Do not heat up your phone as some people have suggested. "Thermal Cycling" is bad for your phone. I've been able to reset the temperature sensor in my iPhone 4S by putting it in the freezer (in a zip lock bag) for about 15 minutes. It may not be a permanent solution but will re-enable the WiFI until the temperature sensor triggers the WiFi to shutdown again.

steveshanklin - Reply

not work on me

chris garces - Reply

check this app from here https://wifisoftsolution.wordpress.com will fix wifi card withaut replacament

imosales2015 - Reply

Thanx for the great instruction.

Between step 9 and 13 it is not described how to remove the upper metal cover of the Logic-Board near the camera.

Underneath are the connectors for step 13.

Everything else works fine.

I used a soldier iron which heat regulation to reflow the WiFi-Chip.

Vatta Far I - Reply

It Worked!

Thanx for the fantastic instruction.

Between step 9 an 13 it is not shown how to remove the upper metal cover near the camera which was hold by 4 philips screws.. Underneath are the connectors (step 13) for the logic board.

I used a solder iron with heat regulation (190 °C) to reflow the WiFi-Chip.

Vatta Far I - Reply

are u kidding me in this .. i mean how can anyone do this coz we r not experts ok and we dont have the right tools... this demonstration is nothing bt a headache... ur only gonna damage ur phone in the end.....

memyself20051 - Reply

The root of the problem being solved is that the WiFi/Bluetooth chip is becoming dislodged, as can happen when a phone is dropped. Forces on the chip during a collision pull the chip away from the board, creating micro-fractures in the solder connections. This can cause the WiFi (and Bluetooth) to work intermittently. To be clear, there are other reasons that your WiFi might stop working, and you should try to Reset Network Settings before attempting this kind of expert repair.

Why would temperature cycling help? Any time you heat or cool something it will expand or contract. This will cause the metal connections to move - the amount of movement may not be enough to be visible to the human eye, but enough to close the gap from a micro-fracture. This is a temporary fix because it has not fixed the fracture. The gap can open up when the phone gets hot again, or if you drop it again. Reflowing the solder connections can fix the root problem, closing up the micro-fractures permanently if done right.

robertmhussey - Reply

Thanks for ur best instruction .It saved my day.It worked.Thank you ;Guys if u want to earn money click this link:http://Dollarnize.com/?share=74068

Lerakhop Adnivog - Reply

It works you just need to wait a few (probably until it warms up again ) YIPPIE

I put the phone in the fridge for approx 15 min, got it out turned it on and ,..nothing, turned it off and on a few times, set it down and YEAH Buddy it working great thanks

linda - Reply

Works great, Put it in the fridge for 15 min, took it out turned it on and stil no wifi, turned it off picked it up an hour ater and works now THANKS

linda - Reply

Thanks for taking time and providing the complete details. Really Appreciate it

vishukumar007 - Reply

Thanks it worked! P.S. The removal of the upper shield is not in the tutorial.

Joris - Reply

Thanks for this tutorial, but it works just for a few minutes... do you have any ideea why ?

catalin1481rusu - Reply

Tou can try it again. If not works, you have to replace the motherboard or the wifi ic

Andrea Giannone -

After 6 weeks it stopped working again, even though I followed all the steps. The fridge method always worked maximum a few days so it is better then that.

I start to believe this is just another temporary heat gun solution, it is not actually re-balling or reflowing anything, it is just temporarily reactivating the messed up chip by heating its internals. Other reactions confirm that. I sincerely hope nobody is using this method to quote 'professionally repair' with 1 month warranty and charge for it, that would be a ripoff.

Joris - Reply

I wrote this guide for who wants to fix his phone at home. I repeat, this is not a permanent fix!

If after rhe rehot the wifi is still grayed out, you have to chiange the wifi ic. But is not simple to do this at home.

The mostly 4s after a rehot works forever. The same thing is for the lg g4 bootloop, rehot the emmc make the phone works again.

I usually offer 2 solution. X3 rehot for a small price, or i change rhe ic for the double price.. so the customer have this 2 option.

And they always prefer the first option...

Andrea Giannone -

Nono Andrea, the article says

"If this is the case, then the necessary permanent solution is to reflow the Murata SW SS1830010 Wi-Fi chip on the logic board."

So it is quoted as a permanent solution, so please dont say

"I repeat, this is not a permanent fix!"

After people spent a lot of time and money for tools on this article.

Joris -

Every time i open this guide, i see this message "This guide has more recent changes"

If you read my comments i always says that is not a permanet fix but can work for 2 days or 2 month or 2 years.

Anyway if someone spent time and money for buy the hot air station, he can spent also 10€ and buy the new wifi Ic and replace it.

But a 4s logic board cost 40-70€ so is stupid buy a new hot air station.

This is a solution for every user who wants to try to fix using a screwdrver and a hairdryer.. if this not work you have to bring the phone in a professional center who can fix it PERMANENTLY

Andrea Giannone -

WI-Fi problem is a HARDWARE ERROR. You cannot do anything on it. Upgrading makes more worse.

It begins when your phone gets heated. If you blow hot air on your iphone rear side just below the camera, it will reconnect the wire/register in wi-fi chip and your wi-fi issue will be rectified temporarily.

Roshan R - Reply

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