Introduction

The G&G m-14 is the easiest AEG m-14 to re-assemble on the market but there are portions of the re-assemble that can be tricky without knowing a few tricks, This guide will give you the step by step info to do just that.

Image 1/2: For anti-reversal latch make sure all in smaller parts are aligned like they are in the two images and that the spring is pushing against the gearbox wall. The silver base of the anti-reversal latch fits in a hole in the area shown. Image 2/2: Make sure that the Trigger switch is set firmly into position and that the switch spring is re-attached to the gearbox post.
  • The first step in to put back any of the unique internal parts if any that where removed.

  • For anti-reversal latch make sure all in smaller parts are aligned like they are in the two images and that the spring is pushing against the gearbox wall. The silver base of the anti-reversal latch fits in a hole in the area shown.

  • Make sure that the Trigger switch is set firmly into position and that the switch spring is re-attached to the gearbox post.

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Image 1/3: For those that do want to re-shim the same technique from the [guide|10634]  guide will work hear. Although the spur gear will most likely be shimmed a little bit higher than on the gearbox used in the guide. Image 2/3: Make sure when place the spur gear the  sector gear in in the 2:00 position. Image 3/3: For the bevel gear make sure the anti-reversal latch is pressing against it.
  • Now the gears can be added. If you don't want re-shim the gearbox try not to let the shims get out of place.

  • For those that do want to re-shim the same technique from the G&G AEG Shimming Guide Airsoft guide will work hear. Although the spur gear will most likely be shimmed a little bit higher than on the gearbox used in the guide.

  • Make sure when place the spur gear the sector gear in in the 2:00 position.

  • For the bevel gear make sure the anti-reversal latch is pressing against it.

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Image 1/2: First take the cylinder, cylinder head, air-nozzle and tappet, and fit them altogether as  they would be in the gearbox. Image 2/2: Now take the spring and prop it up on one side as shown in the first picture.
  • One of the sections that some techs struggle with is placing the tappet plate and spring into position. So this step will cover a easy technique on how to do just that.

  • First take the cylinder, cylinder head, air-nozzle and tappet, and fit them altogether as they would be in the gearbox.

  • Now take the spring and prop it up on one side as shown in the first picture.

  • Now take the hole set of parts that you assembled earlier and catch the spring with notch of the tappet plate. Keep some tension on the spring to keep it in place, and then set the rest of the parts into position.

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Image 1/2: Now grab the small plastic feeding tube piece and spring shown in the second picture. This piece allows bb's to feed into the hop-up. Image 2/2: Set the feeding tube and spring into the gearbox as shown. Once in place you can use a tool (in this case a punch) with some weight to it to hold it down.
  • Now slide the piston into the cylinder and make sure the track on the piston and gearbox line up.

  • Now grab the small plastic feeding tube piece and spring shown in the second picture. This piece allows bb's to feed into the hop-up.

  • Set the feeding tube and spring into the gearbox as shown. Once in place you can use a tool (in this case a punch) with some weight to it to hold it down.

  • The feeding tube doesn't like to to stay in place on it's own and without help from a weighted tool it will pop out of place before you can get the gearbox shells together. Surgical clamps can also be used to hole down the the feeding tube.

  • If you are still struggling to get feeding tube in place there is another technique for getting it into place in a later step.

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Image 1/3: Now take the other half of the gearbox shell and press it into place. Image 2/3: If you where struggling with the feeding tube and spring put the gearbox together without it for now. Image 3/3: If you where struggling with the feeding tube and spring put the gearbox together without it for now.
  • Now install the main spring and spring guide and use a long tool to hold down the piston.

  • Now take the other half of the gearbox shell and press it into place.

  • If you where struggling with the feeding tube and spring put the gearbox together without it for now.

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  • If you managed to get the gearbox back together with the feeding tube and spring in place skip this step.

  • This step will cover how to add the feeding tube and spring once the gearbox is together. This done before you add any screws. If You are struggling to get other parts lined up in the gear box go to the beginning of step 7 and then come back to this one.

  • Once the two halfs are together take the feeding tube and it's spring connect them together. Use some G&G gear grease or other O-ring/plastic safe substance to hold the spring onto the feeding tube if needed. In extreme difficulty a small amount of super glue could be used instead.

  • Now take the gearbox and crack in open in the front just enough to set the feeding tube and spring into place but not enough to let any other internals move out of place. Then press the gearbox half's back together.

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Image 1/2: If the two half's still don't quit meet together perfectly check the piston putting a 3mm hex driver down the air-nozzle and push the piston back. This should set the piston into place. Image 2/2: If everything checks out you can begin screwing the to half's together starting with the center screw and then the two major screws, one on either side of the gearbox.
  • Now with the two shells together check to see if the gear axles are set into the bearings. Then check to see if the anti-reversal latch is out of place.

  • If the two half's still don't quit meet together perfectly check the piston putting a 3mm hex driver down the air-nozzle and push the piston back. This should set the piston into place.

  • If everything checks out you can begin screwing the to half's together starting with the center screw and then the two major screws, one on either side of the gearbox.

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Image 1/3: Make sure the the writing is at the front of the gearbox. Image 2/3: Next add the pin to the front of the gearbox. Image 3/3: Next add the pin to the front of the gearbox.
  • Now the retaining strap can be added.

  • Make sure the the writing is at the front of the gearbox.

  • Next add the pin to the front of the gearbox.

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Image 1/3: First line up the motor cage as shown and then slide in onto the box. once the cage piece is all the way forward turn the motor cage to the clockwise slightly Image 2/3: From hear you can add the motor bracket int position. Next take the small 2mm screws with the round head and begin screwing the bracket down on both sides. Image 3/3: From hear you can add the motor bracket int position. Next take the small 2mm screws with the round head and begin screwing the bracket down on both sides.
  • Now the motor can be re-attached to the gearbox.

  • First line up the motor cage as shown and then slide in onto the box. once the cage piece is all the way forward turn the motor cage to the clockwise slightly

  • From hear you can add the motor bracket int position. Next take the small 2mm screws with the round head and begin screwing the bracket down on both sides.

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Image 1/3: Once the the spring is added you can plug in a battery and test the gearbox to see if everything is working. Image 2/3: Once the the spring is added you can plug in a battery and test the gearbox to see if everything is working. Image 3/3: Once the the spring is added you can plug in a battery and test the gearbox to see if everything is working.
  • Now you can attach the trigger spring.

  • Once the the spring is added you can plug in a battery and test the gearbox to see if everything is working.

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Image 1/2: This will make it so that the wiring will not get caught up when the gearbox goes back in the body of the AEG. Image 2/2: This will make it so that the wiring will not get caught up when the gearbox goes back in the body of the AEG.
  • Now begin to press the wiring back in place.

  • This will make it so that the wiring will not get caught up when the gearbox goes back in the body of the AEG.

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Image 1/3: Start by positioning the the gearbox rear section into the back of the receiver and then set the front part of the gearbox into place. Image 2/3: Start by positioning the the gearbox rear section into the back of the receiver and then set the front part of the gearbox into place. Image 3/3: Start by positioning the the gearbox rear section into the back of the receiver and then set the front part of the gearbox into place.
  • Now the gearbox can be set into the upper receiver.

  • Start by positioning the the gearbox rear section into the back of the receiver and then set the front part of the gearbox into place.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Begin adding the short 2mm screws with the cone shaped heads into the areas shown.

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Image 1/3: Start by placing the spring in the hole next to the 2mm screw and then place bolt catch piece with the other end of the spring going into it's own hole. Image 2/3: Then press the small pin into place. Once the pin is far enough in that it hold the bolt catch in place you can use a punch to get the pin in the rest of the way. Image 3/3: Then press the small pin into place. Once the pin is far enough in that it hold the bolt catch in place you can use a punch to get the pin in the rest of the way.
  • With the screw set into the receiver you can now add the bolt catch.

  • Start by placing the spring in the hole next to the 2mm screw and then place bolt catch piece with the other end of the spring going into it's own hole.

  • Then press the small pin into place. Once the pin is far enough in that it hold the bolt catch in place you can use a punch to get the pin in the rest of the way.

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Image 1/3: Then take the the charging hand and set the notch section and slide it into the track wile linking it to the fake bolt as shown in the second image. Image 2/3: Then once everything is connected test the fake bolt by polling the charging handle back. Image 3/3: Then once everything is connected test the fake bolt by polling the charging handle back.
  • Now grab the fake bolt and slide it into the top as shown.

  • Then take the the charging hand and set the notch section and slide it into the track wile linking it to the fake bolt as shown in the second image.

  • Then once everything is connected test the fake bolt by polling the charging handle back.

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Image 1/2: Make sure the large part of the charging handle slide into the section marked. Image 2/2: Once everything is in position take the  large 3mm bolts and screw them to the large holes shown.
  • Now you can slide the hop up and other barrel in to the rest of the assemble.

  • Make sure the large part of the charging handle slide into the section marked.

  • Once everything is in position take the large 3mm bolts and screw them to the large holes shown.

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Image 1/3: First take the spring guide and add the spring to it. Then take the two parts and slide them into the hole of large charging handle section shown. Image 2/3: The end of the spring guide a fork like section. This end locks on the the large metal pin that goes threw the front of the gearbox. Image 3/3: The end of the spring guide a fork like section. This end locks on the the large metal pin that goes threw the front of the gearbox.
  • With the outer barrel bolted down you can now add the charging handle spring and spring guide.

  • First take the spring guide and add the spring to it. Then take the two parts and slide them into the hole of large charging handle section shown.

  • The end of the spring guide a fork like section. This end locks on the the large metal pin that goes threw the front of the gearbox.

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Image 1/3: First start by setting the rear wiring into the stock of the gun. Image 2/3: Next line up the front of the outer barrel with the front of the outer barrel as shown. Image 3/3: Then with motor sticking into the body press the body and rest of the assemble together.
  • Now your on the home stretch the gun is almost complete.

  • First start by setting the rear wiring into the stock of the gun.

  • Next line up the front of the outer barrel with the front of the outer barrel as shown.

  • Then with motor sticking into the body press the body and rest of the assemble together.

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Image 1/3: You will notice that the trigger assemble  has slots in the section marked on the first picture. When you look into the under section of the M-14 you will see some protruding sections that the slots connect with. Image 2/3: Simply slide the trigger assemble into place and then press the hedging trigger guard back into it's original position Image 3/3: Simply slide the trigger assemble into place and then press the hedging trigger guard back into it's original position
  • Once the upper receiver is flush with the body you can start adding the trigger grouping.

  • You will notice that the trigger assemble has slots in the section marked on the first picture. When you look into the under section of the M-14 you will see some protruding sections that the slots connect with.

  • Simply slide the trigger assemble into place and then press the hedging trigger guard back into it's original position

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Image 1/3: Now make sure your battery connector is reachable. If so you can now test your AEG. Image 2/3: Have fun! Image 3/3: Have fun!
  • If your having difficulty trying to get the trigger guard back into position you can grap the end of and pole back on it slight as you are snapping it into place.

  • Now make sure your battery connector is reachable. If so you can now test your AEG.

  • Have fun!

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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101 Tech USA

Member since: 08/06/2012

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