Introduction

The G&G m-14 is actually quite different than the Tokyo Marui m-14 but in many ways this actually makes it MORE compatible with after market parts and upgrades, and it's much easier to disassemble.

The G&G m-14 takes the same barrels as v2 v3 AEG unlike the marui that requires a unique slotted barrel. The G&G also takes standard v2/v3 gears unlike the marui m-14 that once again take model specific gears. These differences are being stated because there is often confusion where people are told to purchase m-14 specific gears and barrels when they can just use and standard parts that are normally referred to as "Marui compatible". Basically what I am trying to say is that the G&G m14 is more "Tokyo Marui compatible" as we have come to know it then the actual Marui m-14. It's a good thing!

Image 1/2: Then Remove the battery and keep the back hatch open. Image 2/2: Then Remove the battery and keep the back hatch open.
  • The first step as with most AEG's is cyle the AEG on semi-auto twice to set the piston in the rest position and clear the chamber of any bb's.

  • Then Remove the battery and keep the back hatch open.

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Image 1/3: This will allow you to pull on the back of the trigger guard as shown and hinge the the trigger guard out ward. Image 2/3: Next pull downward on the entire trigger mechanism as it will come straight out. Image 3/3: The cool part about this step is it's exactly like the real firearm and it serves the exact same function.
  • To begin the disassembly put the safety to the safe position.

  • This will allow you to pull on the back of the trigger guard as shown and hinge the the trigger guard out ward.

  • Next pull downward on the entire trigger mechanism as it will come straight out.

  • The cool part about this step is it's exactly like the real firearm and it serves the exact same function.

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Image 1/3: Just start pushing the receiver in a upward and forward direction as shown. Image 2/3: Make sure the wiring coming out does not get snagged on anything. Image 3/3: Make sure the wiring coming out does not get snagged on anything.
  • You can start removing the upper receiver from the body.

  • Just start pushing the receiver in a upward and forward direction as shown.

  • Make sure the wiring coming out does not get snagged on anything.

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Image 1/3: First remove the spring guide piece for the bolt pressing it forward and then pull it out. Image 2/3: First remove the spring guide piece for the bolt pressing it forward and then pull it out. Image 3/3: First remove the spring guide piece for the bolt pressing it forward and then pull it out.
  • With the receiver completely out of the body you can begin separating the barrel from the rest of the receiver.

  • First remove the spring guide piece for the bolt pressing it forward and then pull it out.

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Image 1/2: With the bolts removed you can now pull off the front barrel assembly. Image 2/2: With the bolts removed you can now pull off the front barrel assembly.
  • Now remove the 2 large 3mm hex bolts.

  • With the bolts removed you can now pull off the front barrel assembly.

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Image 1/1:
  • With the Barrel section removed the hop-up and the inner barrel can slide right out

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Image 1/3: With the outer barrel off the charging handle should be easy to remove by pulling down from the top rear section as shown. Image 2/3: Now the fake bolt can be pulled forward and out of the receiver. Image 3/3: Now the fake bolt can be pulled forward and out of the receiver.
  • Now to return the focus to the main receiver section.

  • With the outer barrel off the charging handle should be easy to remove by pulling down from the top rear section as shown.

  • Now the fake bolt can be pulled forward and out of the receiver.

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Image 1/3: Punch out the the pin with either a thin punch or other appropriate tool. Once the pin is partially sticking out you can grab it with pliers. Image 2/3: Careful not to loose track of the spring behind the catch. Image 3/3: Careful not to loose track of the spring behind the catch.
  • The next thing to do is remove the bolt catch. This will give you access to the small screw behind it which is part of the next step.

  • Punch out the the pin with either a thin punch or other appropriate tool. Once the pin is partially sticking out you can grab it with pliers.

  • Careful not to loose track of the spring behind the catch.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Now begin to remove the 3 2mm screws found on either side of the receiver.

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Image 1/2: Start by prying the front section off a little bit. Then slide the gearbox slightly forward and down. Image 2/2: You might have adjust the selector as you go if it is being stubborn.
  • With the screws removed you can now separate the gearbox from the receiver.

  • Start by prying the front section off a little bit. Then slide the gearbox slightly forward and down.

  • You might have adjust the selector as you go if it is being stubborn.

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Image 1/3: In this step all that is required is to remove the small spring with little hooks on both ends. Image 2/3: Once again this spring is also easy to loose, and as the center picture shows there also hard to see. Image 3/3: Once again this spring is also easy to loose, and as the center picture shows there also hard to see.
  • Now we break down the gearbox itself.

  • In this step all that is required is to remove the small spring with little hooks on both ends.

  • Once again this spring is also easy to loose, and as the center picture shows there also hard to see.

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Image 1/3: This is held by 4 2mm screws on either side of the bracket. Image 2/3: With the screws removed the bracket will slide right off. Image 3/3: With the screws removed the bracket will slide right off.
  • Now you can remove bracket of the gearbox motor.

  • This is held by 4 2mm screws on either side of the bracket.

  • With the screws removed the bracket will slide right off.

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Image 1/2: Loosening the wiring allow you to put the motor in a better position to be removed. Image 2/2: Loosening the wiring allow you to put the motor in a better position to be removed.
  • Now carefully take the wiring out of the of the brackets on the side of the gearbox.

  • Loosening the wiring allow you to put the motor in a better position to be removed.

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Image 1/2: Then gently pull the motor cage off without damaging the wiring. Image 2/2: From this point the motor will be hanging around...
  • Now take the motor cage and turn it to the angle shown.

  • Then gently pull the motor cage off without damaging the wiring.

  • From this point the motor will be hanging around...

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Image 1/2: Then remove the the large retainer strap at the top. Image 2/2: Then remove the the large retainer strap at the top.
  • Now remove the large pin that goes through the front of the gearbox.

  • Then remove the the large retainer strap at the top.

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Image 1/2: It is always a good idea to start with the outside screws and then the center one. Image 2/2: It is always a good idea to start with the outside screws and then the center one.
  • Now remove the 3 2mm hex screws.

  • It is always a good idea to start with the outside screws and then the center one.

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Image 1/3: You can begin to the pry the two halves of the gearbox apart starting at the back . Image 2/3: You can begin to the pry the two halves of the gearbox apart starting at the back . Image 3/3: You can begin to the pry the two halves of the gearbox apart starting at the back .
  • Now take a thin tool to go into the back hole to prevent the spring guide fromshooting out.

  • You can begin to the pry the two halves of the gearbox apart starting at the back .

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Image 1/3: After this point you can remove the gears. Just as in the other guide try not to misplace the shims unless you want to adjust the shimming yourself. Image 2/3: Check out the    [guide|10634] guide for more shimming info. Image 3/3: Check out the    [guide|10634] guide for more shimming info.
  • Once the gearbox is opened up quickly remove the main spring and spring guide so that nothing goes fly away.

  • After this point you can remove the gears. Just as in the other guide try not to misplace the shims unless you want to adjust the shimming yourself.

  • Check out the G&G AEG Shimming Guide Airsoft guide for more shimming info.

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Image 1/2: The first part people notice is the unique  Anti-reversal latch. This piece can be pulled right out. The spring that is attached is almost identical to those found in version 2/3 gearboxes and functions in the same way. Image 2/2: Next part is the selector piece. This part interacts with the selector on the gun and will make your gun go full-auto or semi-auto depending on it's position. if you flip the gearbox over you can actually see how it directly interacts with the cut-off leaver.
  • This step is going to cover some of the unique parts of the G&GM-14.

  • The first part people notice is the unique Anti-reversal latch. This piece can be pulled right out. The spring that is attached is almost identical to those found in version 2/3 gearboxes and functions in the same way.

  • Next part is the selector piece. This part interacts with the selector on the gun and will make your gun go full-auto or semi-auto depending on it's position. if you flip the gearbox over you can actually see how it directly interacts with the cut-off leaver.

  • It should be left alone but just encase it does need replacement there is a screw on the out side allowing it to be removed.

  • Lastly there is the trigger switch. This piece is pressed into place and once the spring is detached from the gearbox post, the switch can be pulled out as shown.

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  • Now you have completely broken down a G&G m-14.

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Finish Line

5 other people completed this guide.

101 Tech USA

Member since: 08/06/2012

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17 Guides authored

One Comment

Thanks, it helps a lot!

Yuanliang Yu - Reply

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