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Introduction
This guide shows how to dissasemble the mixer to repair a broken power cord. You'll need a screwdriver for the exterior screws and a small flathead screwdriver or spudger for the clips. Cut off a piece of the cable from the wall plug to just past the point where the damage is, and then solder the wall plug to the new end of the cable.
This guide may also be useful for similar models such as the Bosch MFQ3520 or the Siemens MQ955PE.
What you need
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Unscrew the two Torx T10 screws at the front on the bottom side. Then pull the entire gray plastic cover down towards the front. Caution: the sliding cover on the back is still attached.
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f the gray plastic cover is only hanging on the top of the appliance (be careful, its nose breaks off easily, but it won't bother you later if this happens), then push the sliding lid for the blender stick in at the bottom on the semicircular hook so that it can be pushed out to the back and is only connected to the white plastic band inside
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Now carefully tilt the large gray plastic cover to the left and right so that the last small catch on the top comes loose and the part is free.
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There is a catch on the inside under the area marked in red. Slide a small flat-blade screwdriver under the tab on the catch from the inside and lift it slightly. You can then pull the two housing parts a bit apart. Try to enlarge the gap along those housing parts.
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There are two catches on the top of the device. The front one is easy to reach and release, the rear one is difficult (these are the 4 bridges on the left in the picture, near the red long push button). In my case the rear one is broken - but it still holds.
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Next, open the device like a shell from the opening. You need quite a lot of force for this. The catch at the top of the handle is particularly tight and comes off with a loud crack, hopefully it won't break.
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The motor can now be removed. Disconnect both cables (red at the front and blue at the back, see pictures)
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The most difficult hook is in front of the circuit board, directly under the gray rubberized handle. You can get it open by folding the device apart like a clam with force.
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The hook then unhooks, but in my case it remained intact even after opening it three times. Check that only one hook is left, in the middle in front of the circuit board - see 2nd picture in the middle, the 4-piece bridge.
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The picture shows how to insert the white plastic ribbon. At the rear end, it is anchored to the slider for the blender jug. At the front end, it can engage in the round gray plastic part of the speed regulator. This is It is intended to ensure that the hand blender can only be switched on in position M.
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When assembling, make sure that the switch-on protection for the hand blender is positioned correctly and moves freely back and forth. Check that the copper contacts are switched correctly (you may have to bend them very carefully):
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In position 0, both contacts are open and the plastic ribbon can slide into the switch
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In position M, only the rear contact switches, the plastic strip can slide into the switch
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In position 1 - 4, only the front contact switches. The plastic ribbon is blocked for position 1-5 so that the blender cannot be operated
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In position 5, both contacts switch
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If the cable is broken, the cable can be removed from the strain relief and shortened to the point of breakage. Re-solder the blade terminals and connect them. Push the cable back into the strain relief. The mixer now has a functional cable again.
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To reassemble the device, work through the steps in reverse order.
To reassemble the device, work through the steps in reverse order.
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7 Comments
die müsste in dem grauen Drehschalter drin gewesen sein. für die Stufe M (damit der wieder auf 0 zurückdreht)
VG
Puh, ich habe ein bisschen ausprobiert wie es sein könnte und nun folgende Stellung gefunden: Spannfeder
Drehe ich den Schalter Richtung M wirkt die Spannfeder gegen das Plastikstück. Er springt also von M theoretisch wieder auf 0. Drehe ich den Schalter in die Richtung der Stufen, habe ich keinen Widerstand und kann die Stufen problemlos einstellen. Das Problem welches ich hier sehe, ist das weiße Plastikstück wogegen die Spannfeder drückt.
Wenn ich zu doll in die Stufenrichtung M drücke, springt die Spannfeder über das Plastikstück und verharrt genau dazwischen. Außer die Stufe M kann ich dann keine anderen Stufen mehr einstellen. Vermutlich ist genau das passiert. Hmm, dann werde ich einfach die Stufe M ab sofort ignorieren. Was meint ihr, sieht die Spannfeder auf dem Bild soweit richtig aus? VG
