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Introduction

The internal power supply is critical for your device to turn on. Follow our troubleshooting page to identify if the internal power supply is broken or if it is the external power cord. The power cord will be a much easier replacement if so.

Parts

No parts specified.

  1. Turn the device upside down to reveal the rubber section of the back plate. Using a metal spudger, carefully wedge the blunt tip into the space between the aluminum back plate and the rubber, separating the two pieces. This may take a few minutes to pry the rubber off completely. Once your are able to get a grip on the rubber it is easier to peel it off using your hands. Don't worry about re-applying adhesive to the rubber; the remaining adhesive has plenty of strength to affix itself to the aluminum.
    • Turn the device upside down to reveal the rubber section of the back plate. Using a metal spudger, carefully wedge the blunt tip into the space between the aluminum back plate and the rubber, separating the two pieces.

    • This may take a few minutes to pry the rubber off completely. Once your are able to get a grip on the rubber it is easier to peel it off using your hands.

    • Don't worry about re-applying adhesive to the rubber; the remaining adhesive has plenty of strength to affix itself to the aluminum.

    The epoxy cementing the rubber pad to the aluminum base is a lot stronger than the rubber itself. The rubber is likely to tear as you remove it; I had to use a putty knife to clear the screws. It's worth hanging onto the branding near the Ethernet ports, for future identification (model number, serial number, Ethernet ID, AirPort ID); you can fashion a replacement pad out of neoprene rubber.

    adlerpe - Reply

    Mine completely ripped I have no back cover now its in multiple pieces…. mine was giving off way to much heat and hard drive errors so I decided to replace hard drive and fan wish me luck BUT if yours is overheating do not expect to get back off without ripping the rubber to

    William - Reply

    Using a fan to heat the plate up was helpful

    Michael Zimmermann - Reply

    I wish I read Michael Zimmermann’s suggestion before I tore the first half into about 15 pieces! On the second half I used a hair dryer to heat the rubber. With enough heat and a very slow steady pull on the rubber it came of as a single piece :-)

    mfred2 - Reply

    Do I need to put back on the rubber? will it overheat if I don’t?

    Benjamin Holmstedt - Reply

    It is almost impossible to keep the bottom rubber covering intact in one piece. The rubber is covering the whole base section and it won’t be a problem without it I guess. This is not an epoxy because it is still gummy and sticky. This is like the adhesive used on the double side tapes. Goo Gone worked well to remove those residues.

    Kenn Sakurai - Reply

    The rubber cap like bottom can be replaced with easy to cut in shape cork sheet will do. Just rip off the thin strip where the serial number for the ID and other info that might be needed later. Have it glued or put on a clear tape and put it on the side of the white plastic sidewall will do.

    Kenn Sakurai - Reply

  2. Remove the ten 3mm screws with a Phillips #00 screwdriver. The screws with adhesive covering do not need to be removed.
    • Remove the ten 3mm screws with a Phillips #00 screwdriver.

    • The screws with adhesive covering do not need to be removed.

    The two screws in the top center of this picture should not be removed at this time. They are locating pins on the hard drive.

    neil.davenport - Reply

    Correct - the four screws top centre with glue over then do not need to come out. They are only locating posts for the HDD.

    Tony Meredith - 2018-06-26

    Tony Meredith - Reply

    There are twelve screws marked in that picture. AFAIK only ten need removing. The two in the middle of the top edge don’t need removing

    Shimbo - Reply

    CONFIRMED. Thank you very much for the screws which should not be removed. You guys are right.

    Kenn Sakurai - Reply

  3. The fan affixed to the back plate is connected to the logic board. A small wire must be detached to fully remove the back plate. Pull the base of the wire close to the logic board and the connector will pop off.
    • The fan affixed to the back plate is connected to the logic board. A small wire must be detached to fully remove the back plate.

    • Pull the base of the wire close to the logic board and the connector will pop off.

    Be careful you do not rip the locating connector off the circuit board like I did.

    David “Milky” Millward - Reply

  4. Remove the external connector from its housing by lifting it up, then out. Lift the internal power supply brick out of the device.
    • Remove the external connector from its housing by lifting it up, then out.

    • Lift the internal power supply brick out of the device.

    • You may have to wiggle the brick slightly when removing it, but it will lift straight up and out as nothing else is holding it down.

  5. Disconnect the SATA connector from the hard drive.
    • Disconnect the SATA connector from the hard drive.

    • This cable does not have a locking mechanism so it can just be pulled out.

  6. Disconnect the final power cable from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the final power cable from the logic board.

    • Be careful when pushing in the tab on the logic board connector to release the cable lock.

    note: The tab is connected to the connector of the cable not the logic board

    yogy11 - Reply

    Hi there. This is probably a few years late. But where does one find a replacement PSU for this model Time Capsule?

    cmyplay - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

10 other people completed this guide.

Keaton Frahmann

Member since: 10/06/2016

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Cal Poly, Team 4-2, Livingston Fall 2016 Member of Cal Poly, Team 4-2, Livingston Fall 2016

CPSU-LIVINGSTON-F16S4G2

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3 Comments

My time capsule stopped working. I tried everything but it was completely dead so I bought a new power supply on eBay but now the amber light is solid and won't turn green. I've tested the hard drive and it's fine. I've got another new power supply today and still a solid amber light. Any ideas please?

Andrew - Reply

After the Apple Reseller said the device was not covered by service anymore and data rescue would cost 70 bucks I decided to go for it myself. Went very well. Except the grey rubber backplate was ripping apart on removal. Must be because of the device getting so hot. Will fix it with some self-adhesive rubber mat from the crafts store.

Thanks for the guide!

Colin Schmid - Reply

Hello is HOT I took the rubber mat off and rise it with rubber foot for better circulation of air, it helps alot.

Fernando Ascanio - Reply

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