Danger
Potentially Deadly
Death or dismemberment may result if this guide is not followed properly. Use extreme caution and follow all warnings!
Danger

Introduction

If your AL2216W is having problems, it is very likely that it is a capacitor issue. Here are some signs of bad capacitors:

Note: While some issues may be corrected with a partial capacitor replacement, this is never recommended - it is better to change all of the caps at the same time to avoid having to repair the same issue multiple times.

Replace all capacitors

  • Power issues (This monitor has this issue)
  • Excessive transformer hum (This monitor has this issue)
  • Excessive inverter hum (This monitor has this issue)
  • Troublesome Auto adjustment (This monitor has this issue)
  • Backlight problems
  • Power problems
  • Video issues (Examples: Unstable image, Image drops when connected to a computer, does not play nice on higher resolutions, random image drops)
  • Random power issues that may only resolve if the monitor is physically unplugged.

Original capacitor values (Only use these if you do not want to install better caps then the monitor came with)

  • 25V 1000uF (x2)
  • 10V 1000uF (x1)
  • 25V 220uF (x2)
If you are uncertain about holding parts like power supplies, it is best to follow all provided warnings. A capacitor discharge tool should also be built and kept on hand.
  • If you are uncertain about holding parts like power supplies, it is best to follow all provided warnings. A capacitor discharge tool should also be built and kept on hand.

  • The filter capacitor is the most dangerous and is the most prone to holding a residual charge.

  • Unplug the monitor and leave it unplugged for 24-48 hours. If you plan on doing a filter capacitor replacement, wait 5-7 days.

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This monitor never came with a hinge cap. If yours still has it, snap it off from the points marked in black. Remove the stand from the monitor. The 4 screws that have to be removed are marked. While you do not need to remove these screws in a specific order, it is better to remove the bottom screws first.
  • This monitor never came with a hinge cap. If yours still has it, snap it off from the points marked in black.

  • Remove the stand from the monitor. The 4 screws that have to be removed are marked. While you do not need to remove these screws in a specific order, it is better to remove the bottom screws first.

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Remove 4 fine threaded screws from the back of the monitor. There is no particular order you need to follow here, since the screws behind the panel are the same length and type. This screw is unique and only goes in one place. Set it aside separately from the other screws. The thread on this screw is different from the others.
  • Remove 4 fine threaded screws from the back of the monitor. There is no particular order you need to follow here, since the screws behind the panel are the same length and type.

  • This screw is unique and only goes in one place. Set it aside separately from the other screws. The thread on this screw is different from the others.

My monitor, an Acer 2216W verion BL from 2007, has no screws other than the monitor stand screws. The back bezel is solidly glued down. No luck removing it so far :(

Daniel Schwarz - Reply

The back on this version is held together by snaps along the edge. I was able to get it off by putting a knife in the gap and hammering down onto the knife with a screwdriver handle. However, the circuitboard is completely different.

Evan Richards -

If the monitor has never been serviced, additional force may be required to open it. However, using too much will do more harm then good. On the bottom of the monitor, there are four slots to open the monitor. To release these clips, use a Jimmy or flathead screwdriver. Warning: Use of a flathead screwdriver will damage the plastic.
  • If the monitor has never been serviced, additional force may be required to open it. However, using too much will do more harm then good.

  • On the bottom of the monitor, there are four slots to open the monitor. To release these clips, use a Jimmy or flathead screwdriver. Warning: Use of a flathead screwdriver will damage the plastic.

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If you are having trouble doing this, a pry tool can help. This issue is more likely to come up a monitor that has never been opened.
  • If you are having trouble doing this, a pry tool can help. This issue is more likely to come up a monitor that has never been opened.

  • With the monitor unclipped on the bottom, pull the sides of the monitor up. Do this slowly to avoid damaging the plastics and potentially the panel.

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At this point, you are almost to the power supply. Now is the time to decide if you can safely do this.
  • At this point, you are almost to the power supply. Now is the time to decide if you can safely do this.

  • With the back of the monitor off, remove the 2 screws on the IEC power connector.

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If you do not have a Nut driver on hand, needlenoose plyers can also be used for this step.
  • If you do not have a Nut driver on hand, needlenoose plyers can also be used for this step.

  • Remove the 4 screw pins for the video cables from the monitor. Use a 5mm Nut bit/driver to remove the screw pins from the power supply shield.

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Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Disconnect the CCFL tube cables from the power supply board. Disconnect the CCFL tube cables from the power supply board.
  • Disconnect the CCFL tube cables from the power supply board.

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Disconnect the flat flex cable that goes to the control board. You can keep this board in place, since it does not interfere once the flat flex is disconnected. Disconnect the flat flex cable that goes to the control board. You can keep this board in place, since it does not interfere once the flat flex is disconnected.
  • Disconnect the flat flex cable that goes to the control board. You can keep this board in place, since it does not interfere once the flat flex is disconnected.

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Remove the 2 screws holding the lower plate below the power supply shield. Remove the 2 screws holding the lower plate below the power supply shield.
  • Remove the 2 screws holding the lower plate below the power supply shield.

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On the right side of the monitor, remove the remaining screws holding the upper shield in place. Lift the lower plate up while removing the power supply shield to remove it from the monitor. Once this is done, you will have access to the power supply. Removal of the lower shield is not required to access the power supply. However, removing it will make disassembly easier. If you choose to remove it, unclip the plastic tabs that are used to keep it in place.
  • On the right side of the monitor, remove the remaining screws holding the upper shield in place.

  • Lift the lower plate up while removing the power supply shield to remove it from the monitor. Once this is done, you will have access to the power supply.

  • Removal of the lower shield is not required to access the power supply. However, removing it will make disassembly easier. If you choose to remove it, unclip the plastic tabs that are used to keep it in place.

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If you see bulged capacitors, treat them as if they have residual charge. This may mean discharging them as a safety precation.
  • If you see bulged capacitors, treat them as if they have residual charge. This may mean discharging them as a safety precation.

  • In most cases, the filter capacitor does NOT need to be replaced. If you need to replace this capacitor, discharge it before replacement.

  • Original capacitor ratings (primary): 25V 1000uF (X2), 10V 1000uF (X1), 25V 220uF (X2)

  • If you cannot find the original capacitors, it is okay to substitute the original capacitors with larger replacements. It is not necessary to match the capacitors used by the factory.

  • This capacitor is only used on older power supply boards. If your board has this capacitor, replacement is recommended but is generally not required unless there is obvious bulging or leakage.

  • With the power supply shield removed from the monitor, identify the power supply. Along with the capacitors previously mentioned, take note of any additional capacitors that were not mentioned (ex: Capacitor by the inverter coil).

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The black screw (marked in Blue) is a ground screw. It does not fit anywhere else. Do not lose this screw! Only lift the power supply up at a slight angle. Lifting it up too much can damage the power supply and potentially the video processing board. Remove the 4 screws from the power supply. Once this is done, lift the power supply up at a slight angle to clear the mounting holes so you can remove the power supply from the monitor.
  • The black screw (marked in Blue) is a ground screw. It does not fit anywhere else. Do not lose this screw!

  • Only lift the power supply up at a slight angle. Lifting it up too much can damage the power supply and potentially the video processing board.

  • Remove the 4 screws from the power supply. Once this is done, lift the power supply up at a slight angle to clear the mounting holes so you can remove the power supply from the monitor.

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If you are unsure of the position of the capacitors, write the polarity on the solder mask as a reference using a permanent marker. If you install the capacitors incorrectly, they will explode when given power. Note: These marks will wear off when the capacitor is soldered in.
  • If you are unsure of the position of the capacitors, write the polarity on the solder mask as a reference using a permanent marker. If you install the capacitors incorrectly, they will explode when given power. Note: These marks will wear off when the capacitor is soldered in.

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If you do not have flux on hand, add fresh solder to the capacitor leads.
  • If you do not have flux on hand, add fresh solder to the capacitor leads.

  • Do not use a lot of flux. Using too much will complicate board cleaning later.

  • To prepare the board for capacitor replacement, put fresh flux or solder on the capacitor leads. This will help ease the removal process.

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Do not touch the soldering iron while removing the old caps! If you do not have something like Helping Hands, hold the board at an angle. When one or two capacitors fail, the rest are likely to fail. For this reason, it is best to replace them as a set at once.
  • Do not touch the soldering iron while removing the old caps! If you do not have something like Helping Hands, hold the board at an angle.

  • When one or two capacitors fail, the rest are likely to fail. For this reason, it is best to replace them as a set at once.

  • If you do not know how to solder, refer to this guide: How To Solder and Desolder Connections

  • Take the board out to a place you can solder the new caps on. To remove the capacitors and heat one leg up while the solder is melted. Do this for both sides of all of the capacitors you are replacing.

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Clean the old solder and flux from the board. To do this, use a desoldering braid. Put the desoldering braid over the area you want to clean and heat it up with a soldering iron.
  • Clean the old solder and flux from the board. To do this, use a desoldering braid. Put the desoldering braid over the area you want to clean and heat it up with a soldering iron.

  • Once the old solder is cleaned up, lift the desoldering braid up with the soldering iron. If you do not do this, it will stick to the solder pad.

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Install your new capacitors. Put your new capacitors in the corresponding holes and bend the leads back to keep them from falling out. Before soldering, it is impotent to check the polarity  and make sure it is correct. If they were installed wrong, correct it now.
  • Install your new capacitors. Put your new capacitors in the corresponding holes and bend the leads back to keep them from falling out. Before soldering, it is impotent to check the polarity and make sure it is correct. If they were installed wrong, correct it now.

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Once you have put the new caps in and verified the polarity, solder the new capacitors in. Once the capacitor is soldered in, cut the remaining lead. Repeat this with the rest of the capacitors. Once you have put the new caps in and verified the polarity, solder the new capacitors in. Once the capacitor is soldered in, cut the remaining lead. Repeat this with the rest of the capacitors. Once you have put the new caps in and verified the polarity, solder the new capacitors in. Once the capacitor is soldered in, cut the remaining lead. Repeat this with the rest of the capacitors.
  • Once you have put the new caps in and verified the polarity, solder the new capacitors in. Once the capacitor is soldered in, cut the remaining lead. Repeat this with the rest of the capacitors.

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After verifying there is no cold solder joints, clean the board. The best way do this is to use high concentration rubbing alcohol (91% or better).
  • After verifying there is no cold solder joints, clean the board. The best way do this is to use high concentration rubbing alcohol (91% or better).

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Put the monitor back together and test the repair. If your repair worked, it should have stable power and produce an image reliably.
  • Put the monitor back together and test the repair. If your repair worked, it should have stable power and produce an image reliably.

Excellent guide. Really helped in getting the casing apart and pulling things off in the proper order to not damage anything. It turns out nearly every capacitor on mine was blown, so I instead just ordered a replacement board (which was cheaper than buying all new capacitors).

gtxcrusader - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Nick

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3 Comments

I did not replace the large capacitor on the Acer monitor yet. All other caps have been replaced. I may have to replace the FSPO55- ZP102A as it has a hot spot beside it. I don't know if the part number is right? Do know where I can buy it. Tom B

Thomas Brady - Reply

These older CCFL panels usually burn on the PCB by the inverter coil and main transformer (the Delta branded part, in this case). The LED monitors limit the failure points to the transformer.

It sounds like your PCB got burned from the heat by the transformer or the inverter coil. This is very common and the boards are designed to take it. However, if you are concerned you should buy a new power supply board altogether if that makes you more comfortable.

Nick -

In step 12, replacing the capacitors with ones with a different capacitance rating instead of using a capacitor rated for higher voltage makes no sense to me electrically. The capacitance rating is the important part, if you use a capacator rated for say 35 volts when the original is rated for 10 makes no difference whatsoever. the rating just means MAX voltage.

Brennan Gomolka - Reply

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