Danger
Potentially Deadly
Death or dismemberment may result if this guide is not followed properly. Use extreme caution and follow all warnings!
Danger

Introduction

If your AL2216W is acting up, you probably need to replace the power supply capacitors. Here are some signs of bad capacitors.

Replace all capacitors

  • Power issues (This monitor has this issue)
  • Video issues(Examples: Unstable image, Image drops when connected to a computer, does not play nice on higher resolutions, random image drops)
  • Monitor turns off randomly and will not turn on without being unplugged and power drained
  • Excessive transformer hum (This monitor has this issue)
  • Excessive inverter hum (This monitor has this issue)
  • Backlight does not work

Partial capacitor replacement MAY work (but not recommended)

  • Auto adjustment issues (This monitor has this issue)
  • Power light is unstable (This problem is uncommon. Partial replacement MAY work.)

Note: Even if the issue can be fixed with a partial replacement, the issues will continue re-occurring until all of the capacitors are replaced.

Original capacitor values (Supplied if you do not want to go up in uF and want to match the old caps)

  • 25V 1000uF (x2)
  • 10V 1000uF (x1)
  • 25V 220uF (x2)
Unplug the cables from the monitor and let it sit for 24-48 hours. This is to drain any residual power held by the capacitors. If you plan on doing a filter capacitor replacement, let the monitor sit for 5-7 days. Opening the monitor early is not suggested.
  • Unplug the cables from the monitor and let it sit for 24-48 hours. This is to drain any residual power held by the capacitors. If you plan on doing a filter capacitor replacement, let the monitor sit for 5-7 days. Opening the monitor early is not suggested.

  • Optional, but HIGHLY recommended: Build a capacitor discharge tool before opening the monitor to discharge the capacitors as an additional safety measure.

  • The filter capacitor is the most dangerous and is the most prone to holding a residual charge.

  • For your own safety, if you are uncertain about handling these kinds of parts, follow all provided warnings. If you decide not to proceed, find a way to get it to someone who is willing to do the repair.

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Remove the stand from the monitor. The 4 screws that have to be removed are marked. While you do not need to remove them in a specific order, it may be a good idea to start with the bottom screws and work your way up, so the stand does not fall on your person or get damaged. When I got this monitor, the hinge cap was missing. If your hinge cap is still on your monitor, snap it off from the clips marked in black. Once this is done, it should come off with little to no fuss.
  • Remove the stand from the monitor. The 4 screws that have to be removed are marked. While you do not need to remove them in a specific order, it may be a good idea to start with the bottom screws and work your way up, so the stand does not fall on your person or get damaged.

  • When I got this monitor, the hinge cap was missing. If your hinge cap is still on your monitor, snap it off from the clips marked in black. Once this is done, it should come off with little to no fuss.

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Remove 4 fine threaded screws from the back of the monitor. There is no particular order you need to follow here, since the screws behind the panel are the same length and type. The screw marked in blue is different, and only goes in the marked location. Set this screw aside so you do not mix it up. This screw uses a different thread, so it will stand out from the other screws.
  • Remove 4 fine threaded screws from the back of the monitor. There is no particular order you need to follow here, since the screws behind the panel are the same length and type.

  • The screw marked in blue is different, and only goes in the marked location. Set this screw aside so you do not mix it up. This screw uses a different thread, so it will stand out from the other screws.

My monitor, an Acer 2216W verion BL from 2007, has no screws other than the monitor stand screws. The back bezel is solidly glued down. No luck removing it so far :(

Daniel Schwarz - Reply

The back on this version is held together by snaps along the edge. I was able to get it off by putting a knife in the gap and hammering down onto the knife with a screwdriver handle. However, the circuitboard is completely different.

Evan Richards -

On the bottom of the monitor, there are four slots to open the monitor. Put a Jimmy in these slots, pull the tool up and the back of the monitor will come off. If you do not have a Jimmy, a flathead screwdriver will work as a substitute. Just keep in mind that it will damage the plastic to some extent. Because of this, only pull up the amount you need to reduce the damage to the plastic.
  • On the bottom of the monitor, there are four slots to open the monitor. Put a Jimmy in these slots, pull the tool up and the back of the monitor will come off.

  • If you do not have a Jimmy, a flathead screwdriver will work as a substitute. Just keep in mind that it will damage the plastic to some extent. Because of this, only pull up the amount you need to reduce the damage to the plastic.

  • If the monitor has never been opened or worked on, this will require more force to accomplish then a monitor that has previously been worked on.

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With the monitor unclipped on the bottom, pull the sides of the monitor up. Do this slowly to avoid damaging the plastics and potentially the panel.
  • With the monitor unclipped on the bottom, pull the sides of the monitor up. Do this slowly to avoid damaging the plastics and potentially the panel.

  • If you are having trouble doing this, you can use a pry tool to help remove the sides of the monitor. This will help make opening a monitor that has never been serviced easier.

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At this point, you are almost to the power supply. Now is the time to decide if you can safely do this.
  • At this point, you are almost to the power supply. Now is the time to decide if you can safely do this.

  • With the back of the monitor off, remove the 2 screws on the IEC power connector.

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Remove the 4 screw pins for the video cables from the monitor. Use a 5mm nut bit to remove the pins.
  • Remove the 4 screw pins for the video cables from the monitor. Use a 5mm nut bit to remove the pins.

  • If you do not have a 5mm Hex driver on hand, needlenoose plyers will work in place of the Hex bit.

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Disconnect the CCFL tube cables from the power supply board. Disconnect the CCFL tube cables from the power supply board.
  • Disconnect the CCFL tube cables from the power supply board.

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Disconnect the flat flex cable for the button board. There is no need to remove the board from the monitor. Disconnect the flat flex cable for the button board. There is no need to remove the board from the monitor.
  • Disconnect the flat flex cable for the button board. There is no need to remove the board from the monitor.

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Remove the 2 screws holding the lower plate below the power supply shield. Remove the 2 screws holding the lower plate below the power supply shield.
  • Remove the 2 screws holding the lower plate below the power supply shield.

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On the right side of the monitor, remove the remaining screws holding the upper shield in place. Lift the lower plate up while removing the power supply shield to remove it from the monitor. Once this is done, you will have access to the power supply. Removal of the lower shield is not required. While you do not need to remove it, it can simplify reassembly by making it a one handed job. If you choose to remove it, unclip the plastic tabs that hold it in, while lifting up to remove it.
  • On the right side of the monitor, remove the remaining screws holding the upper shield in place.

  • Lift the lower plate up while removing the power supply shield to remove it from the monitor. Once this is done, you will have access to the power supply.

  • Removal of the lower shield is not required. While you do not need to remove it, it can simplify reassembly by making it a one handed job. If you choose to remove it, unclip the plastic tabs that hold it in, while lifting up to remove it.

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If any of the capacitors have bulged, assume there is a residual charge remaining. Handle the power supply by the sides and do not touch the capacitor leads, and use extreme caution.
  • If any of the capacitors have bulged, assume there is a residual charge remaining. Handle the power supply by the sides and do not touch the capacitor leads, and use extreme caution.

  • With the power supply shield removed from the monitor, identify the power supply. Take a note of the original capacitors and bring this list to an electronics store or buy the caps you need online.

  • If you cannot find the original capacitors or they cost too much and a higher capacity equivalent is available for less, you can substitute the originals for ones with a higher rating, as long as they fit the board.

  • The capacitor marked in red is only on older power supply boards. If you have a newer board, it is very unlikely to have this capacitor in place. If you have it, you will need to replace it as well.

  • You only likely need to change the following capacitors: 2x 25V 1000uF, 1x 10V 1000uF, 2x 25V 220uF. If any additional capacitors are bad or you wish to change all of the small caps, take note of the other caps you may wish to replace. Replacement of the filter capacitor should be limited to cases where it has to be changed only, due to the cost.

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Remove the 4 screws from the power supply. Important: The black screw is a ground screw, and will only fit in one place. Keep this screw separated from the rest of the screws. It is marked in blue. Lift the power supply up at a slight angle to clear the mounting holes and start to remove it. If you lift the board out too much, you may damage the pins on the board, and potentially the video processing board. Lift the power supply up at a slight angle to clear the mounting holes and start to remove it. If you lift the board out too much, you may damage the pins on the board, and potentially the video processing board.
  • Remove the 4 screws from the power supply. Important: The black screw is a ground screw, and will only fit in one place. Keep this screw separated from the rest of the screws. It is marked in blue.

  • Lift the power supply up at a slight angle to clear the mounting holes and start to remove it. If you lift the board out too much, you may damage the pins on the board, and potentially the video processing board.

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If you are not sure about your ability to put the caps in correctly, you may wish to reference the old capacitors and note the original installation. Do this with permanent marker. The marks will come off once you start soldering in the capacitors.
  • If you are not sure about your ability to put the caps in correctly, you may wish to reference the old capacitors and note the original installation. Do this with permanent marker. The marks will come off once you start soldering in the capacitors.

  • Putting the capacitor in the wrong way will cause the capacitor to explode. Permanent marker on the solder mask will not affect the rest of the board.

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Put some flux on the leads of the old capacitors. This will help melt the solder on the old caps with less effort, without adding new solder. solder flux on the leads of the bad capacitor.
  • Put some flux on the leads of the old capacitors. This will help melt the solder on the old caps with less effort, without adding new solder. solder flux on the leads of the bad capacitor.

  • If you do not have flux, adding a small amount of fresh solder will make the old solder melt as well.

  • Apply flux a few times during the repair. Do not use too much, as this may complicate the cleaning of the board once you are done.

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This guide does not teach you how to solder. If you need a how to on soldering, refer to this guide: How To Solder and Desolder Connections Take the board out to a place you can solder the new caps on. To remove the old capacitors from the board, heat one lead up at a time and pull the capacitor out. Do this for all of the capacitors you are changing. Since the spot will be cleaned up, removal does not have to be clean.
  • This guide does not teach you how to solder. If you need a how to on soldering, refer to this guide: How To Solder and Desolder Connections

  • Take the board out to a place you can solder the new caps on. To remove the old capacitors from the board, heat one lead up at a time and pull the capacitor out. Do this for all of the capacitors you are changing. Since the spot will be cleaned up, removal does not have to be clean.

  • Do not touch the soldering iron while removing the old caps! Hold the board at an angle you will not accidentally touch your soldering iron and your hand is away from the tip of the iron.

  • Even if you only have one failed capacitor, it is better to change all of them. If you change them as you go, they will all keep failing until all of them are replaced. It's better to do this once rather then keep having to do it.

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To clean the old solder, use a desoldering braid over the pads where the old capacitors were removed. Put the desoldering braid on top of the pad, and heat it up with a soldering iron. The solder will go into the wick. Once all of the solder has been removed, lift it off the pad with the soldering iron still on the braid.
  • To clean the old solder, use a desoldering braid over the pads where the old capacitors were removed. Put the desoldering braid on top of the pad, and heat it up with a soldering iron. The solder will go into the wick. Once all of the solder has been removed, lift it off the pad with the soldering iron still on the braid.

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Install your new capacitors. Put them in the holes where the old ones went in and bend the leads a little to keep them in place. Check the polarity of the caps before you start soldering. If you put them in wrong, they will explode once given power.
  • Install your new capacitors. Put them in the holes where the old ones went in and bend the leads a little to keep them in place. Check the polarity of the caps before you start soldering. If you put them in wrong, they will explode once given power.

  • Professional refurbishing tip: If you use this guide to refurbish these monitors professionally, only use Lead free solder. Certain states require lead free solder for sale purposes.

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Once you have put the new caps in and verified the polarity, solder the new capacitors in. Once soldered in, cut the remaining lead. Repeat this with the rest of the capacitors. Once you have put the new caps in and verified the polarity, solder the new capacitors in. Once soldered in, cut the remaining lead. Repeat this with the rest of the capacitors. Once you have put the new caps in and verified the polarity, solder the new capacitors in. Once soldered in, cut the remaining lead. Repeat this with the rest of the capacitors.
  • Once you have put the new caps in and verified the polarity, solder the new capacitors in. Once soldered in, cut the remaining lead. Repeat this with the rest of the capacitors.

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After verifying there is no cold solder joints, clean the board. Use 91% rubbing alcohol or better to do this.
  • After verifying there is no cold solder joints, clean the board. Use 91% rubbing alcohol or better to do this.

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Put the monitor back together and test the repair. If your repair worked, it should have stable power and produce an image.
  • Put the monitor back together and test the repair. If your repair worked, it should have stable power and produce an image.

Excellent guide. Really helped in getting the casing apart and pulling things off in the proper order to not damage anything. It turns out nearly every capacitor on mine was blown, so I instead just ordered a replacement board (which was cheaper than buying all new capacitors).

gtxcrusader - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Nick

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3 Comments

I did not replace the large capacitor on the Acer monitor yet. All other caps have been replaced. I may have to replace the FSPO55- ZP102A as it has a hot spot beside it. I don't know if the part number is right? Do know where I can buy it. Tom B

Thomas Brady - Reply

These older CCFL panels usually burn on the PCB by the inverter coil and main transformer (the Delta branded part, in this case). The LED monitors limit the failure points to the transformer.

It sounds like your PCB got burned from the heat by the transformer or the inverter coil. This is very common and the boards are designed to take it. However, if you are concerned you should buy a new power supply board altogether if that makes you more comfortable.

Nick -

In step 12, replacing the capacitors with ones with a different capacitance rating instead of using a capacitor rated for higher voltage makes no sense to me electrically. The capacitance rating is the important part, if you use a capacator rated for say 35 volts when the original is rated for 10 makes no difference whatsoever. the rating just means MAX voltage.

Brennan Gomolka - Reply

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