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Released in 2020, the Razer Blade 15" Advanced model is designed to provide gamers with powerful specifications and sleek aesthetics.

Replaced Battery, Now the battery keeps getting stuck at a limit

So about a month ago, I replaced the battery using the kit from ifixit. 2-3 days ago, the battery got 'stuck' and wouldn't charge past a point, but it would continue to lose battery even when doing nothing, and then the point it would not charge past would continue to decrease. I then updated Windows, deleted the battery driver to restore it, and did a ec reset thing where I shut my laptop down, unplugged everything, and held the power button for 30 seconds. Then, when it booted back up, and I started browsing the internet, the battery spontaneously showed 100% from the 30ish that it was. I did a battery report at the time, and it showed a storage capacity greater than the design capacity.


The next day, the same thing happened, where it stopped going up, but this time I just did the EC reset, and it lowered the charge by 10%, but allowed it to charge like normal.

Now, today, the same thing has happened when it got stuck and won't charge past 57%, but this time, the EC reset has not done anything, and restoring the drivers hasn't either. I have charged it for a while, then let it completely die, and then charged it back up for 2 hours to try to calibrate the battery, but that has not worked. Additionally, I performed another battery report, but this time the storage capacity is showing only 10% of the design capacity.

I have taken the laptop apart, and the connector seems to be seated correctly, and the battery is not swelling. As I am writing this, it seems to have fixed itself and is charging, but it is quite slow. But running another battery report, the capacity remains at exactly 10%.

I have no clue how to even approach this, as I have tried everything.
Any suggestions would be great

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Razer checks if the battery is authentic, but only recently pulled Lenovo stunts with 2024+ models so yours is safe from the full range of Razer nonsense. That said I would not be surprised if they are pulling some tricks in the firmware to "limit charging" as a weak way to force you to use an OEM battery (which they will not sell you, you need to pay them for labor and the privilege to get it at all, and only they will install it). The exception is RtR states where they have to do it, but they either make it as hard as possible or price it sky high to the point they make you spend the same amount of money just paying them to put it in. Razer is infamous for this and copying Apple's bad ideas.

But before you throw in the towel check Synapse for a setting or any possible clues like error logging where the pack may have went into a protective lockout. Sometimes their software causes issues with 3rd party packs or even replacement OEM packs. Find System > Battery in Synapse, and disable Battery Health Optimizer until you can get this pack calibrated. I would check the BIOS as well if you want to be through. I dom't own a Razer (see below) but I know there's a setting in the BIOS which can do it as well -- but generally from my limited understanding Windows takes over and does not clash with the BIOS once you are up and running.

My thoughts on Razer aside, it sounds like a bad battery - I would disconnect it for 5 minutes and if you see a CMOS battery, disconnect that as well. If it continues, you got a bad pack or the BIOS is intentionally limiting it due to how repair hostile Razer is. The battery P/N is RZ09-0328 -- look on eBay for a NEW OEM pack -- that's legitimately the only way to do it. You have a warranty on it if you bought it from iFixit, so I would use it first before buying a pack on eBay.

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Firstly, I don't think it is a limiting thing because I am in the EU, so we have rtr laws making that illegal. When running the battery report it also detects the manufacturer as Razer for some reason, even though I got it from iFixit. As for the battery optimizer, since my laptop is an older model (2020), it doesn't have this setting anywhere I can see. I also checked out the BIOS, and there doesn't seem to be anything there either. I am just trying to see if there is any solution before having to go through the warranty route.

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