Rep: 1
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Fridge/Freezer stopped cooling. Air blows normally. I removed capacitor and it started cooling again. Compressor felt hot, but not sure if that's normal. Installed a new capacitor but it did not fix issue. Tried running it again without the capacitor and it cools. Again, not sure if the cooling and/or heating without the capacitor is at safe/recommended levels.
Is this a good question?
Rep: 522.2k
11
399
1.5k
Hi @babanas
If you have a DMM (digital multimeter) use its Ohmmeter function to check the windings of the compressor motor are OK.
Disconnect the power to the refrigerator and then unplug the start relay from the compressor motor.
Here's a video that shows how to test the windings.
Here's the tech sheet for the refrigerator. On p.4 it shows the connections of the start and run windings.
If the compressor motor is faulty, you may need to get a qualified refrigerator repair service to fix it. This is due to the environmental regulations regarding the handling of refrigerant gases. Besides which they have the correct equipment to do the work as it is not a simple task.
The tech sheet also shows how to run the diagnostic tests so that once the compressor problem is resolved you can check if all the other functions are working correctly.
Here's the parts list for the refrigerator. If there is a faulty part and it needs replacing, locate the wanted part in the list and note the part number that is shown for it. Search online for the part number only, to find suppliers that suit you best.
If you search on YouTube for (insert wanted part number) replacement, sometimes if you're lucky there'll be videos showing how to replace the part.
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Great to know I was on the correct path. I had forgotten to mention that same video. Resistance was tested and it added up as it should have. Though I did not test for shorts, because I assumed that I didn't need to? Or do I still go back and test for that as well?
I did the diagnostic. The only thing that stood out was the Defrost Heater/Bi-metal showing as 02- Bimetal open.
Note: If Bi-metal is open. it will need to be by-passed for heater to operate.
I googled it and it gave me instructions on how to do it. The only thing I can think of that it may have been my problem is that when I removed the cover panel inside my freezer, I did notice the coil fins were bent similarly to the videos I'm seeing. Which with what I know about water freezing, always expands so it makes sense that this may have occurred.
My only worry is buying this part and being stuck with it if it doesn't resolve the issue. Could the Bi-Metal being open, be sufficient to shut off the cooling entirely? Because there was no frost at all while this issue was ongoing.
Removing the capacitor which allows the compressor to start (when it is normally there to help it start) seems strange so check if the start relay tests OK.
Initially remove the start relay and give it a gentle, stress gentle, shaking. If it rattles it is faulty and needs replacing. If it doesn't here's a video that shows how to test it.
If the relay tests OK and given the compressor windings test OK but that the compressor is getting hot, it could still be a faulty compressor (mechanical) or a lack of refrigerant (refrigerant also aids in cooling the compressor)
Ok so something weird happened. Yesterday I decided to just plug it in and let it sit for awhile, and noticed it cooling again with all the normal parts. I turned on the ice making feature and it was making ice. This morning I went back and it's giving me the same issue as before, Ice is melting (as my only indicator of something wrong). So it's not cooling properly, but still cooling. Even though days ago it stopped cooling completely, and today its cooling strong, but not enough to keep ice frozen.
I tried rattling the relay and it felt nice and solid. Similar to the video it's the one that has an internal circuit board, so I can't really test it with a MM
Since it seems intermittent you may have to replace the start relay (part #W10814742) if only to eliminate it as the problem.
Rep: 6.4k
5
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A capacitor on a compressor provides a phase shifted voltage to the start winding to provide increased torque to start the motor.
Removing it would only affect the starting of the compressor. Without a functioning capacitor, the compressor may fail to start, run hot, or draw excessive current, potentially damaging the motor.
A run capacitor provides a different phase shift to help the motor run smoothly and efficiently once it's already running.
Without the capacitor, the motor will lack the necessary torque to run correctly and may run slowly, overheat, or not start at all.
If it is cooling without the capacitor, then the motor is likely running slower. Why it is cooling is the mystery.
It could be that there is lower pressure at the slower speed and a higher pressure at normal speed. A higher than normal pressure won't cool.
A higher pressure at the normal speed could be caused by too much refrigerant, the wrong refrigerant, dirty or clogged coils, or insufficient cooling of the compressor.
What happened prior to this issue?
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Whirlpool
WSF26C3EXF01
Removing the capacitor actually got the compressor to start up again, but I think it was running hot as stated, so I stopped it to avoid damaging anything.
Prior to this for a few months it was freezing some food stuffs inside the fridge portion at recommended temps so I raised it a couple of degrees. More recently, it began to melt things in the freezer. So I kept lowering the temperature below recommended, until eventually it was on the lowest. It would seem to make ice, but then overnight it would melt again. Suddenly it stopped cooling altogether. Fans would blow still, and everything seemed normal except the lack of cooling.
No service was done in terms of refrigerant. I checked the compressor area, and it had the same amount of dust I'd usually find in these things after awhile.
I did notice that our electric bill jumped by $20 last month, and I don't see what it was that we did that made it like that besides possible this fridge.
That is great info! The electric bill might be related to the refer if it were running more than normal to bring the temp down. The slow progression to total failure might indicate a refrigerant leak. The startup issue might indicate a blocked system. The refer was first sold in 2012 so either is possible. Blockage comes when pieces of copper flake off and lodge in the small copper tube. That is going to be expensive to repair. A leakage might be repairable. BUT, if the refer is that old, it is time to replace. And don't expect as much life from a new one. And stay away from Whirlpool. My sister, and son both had one that died withing 3 years. I have one that has an issue - but it isn't malfunctioning YET.
@ruggb %#*@. Was hoping I wouldn't have to bite the bullet for this. Money is tight atm, and last thing I want is a cheap "smart-fridge" from everything that I'm seeing.
Weirdly enough, it started cooling again yesterday when I just reconnected it for the hell of it. It even made ice, but this morning I went back and checked, and the ice is melting all over again.
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Past 30 Days: 14
All Time: 86
2 Comments
Hi @babanas
What is the make and model number of the refrigerator?
Removing the capacitor from the compressor operate circuit is not a good idea as it could end up damaging the compressor.
by jayeff
Whirlpool
WSF26C3EXF01
When both the original and new capacitor were in, it would not activate. Once I took it out, the compressor turned on, and it started to cool, but I could not tell if it was reaching optimal temperatures as it would feel extra hot, so I turned it off to prevent damage.
by Babanas