Hi @josefuster
Not sure but it could just be faulty non locking tactile button switches on the display control board and not the board per se.
Looking at an image of the board¹ for your model refrigerator, you can see the switches line up with the overlay.
Bit unusual for so many to fail at once but it may be worthwhile to remove and test one to see if it is working OK or not rather than just replacing the board. Tactile switches are a lot cheaper ;-). If the switches test OK perhaps follow the traces on the board from the switches to see where they go. There may be a common component that they connect to.
Here's a video² that might help to gain access to the board.
¹ The part number(s) shown for the board are the ones for the board in your model. The first number is the original part number and the second is the one that supersedes it.
² The part number shown is not the part number for the board in your model, hopefully the removal procedure is the same as I couldn't find one for your model.
Hi @josefuster
Looking at your image of the display board, try gently cleaning the board using a Q-Tip lightly moistened with Isopropyl Alcohol 99%+ (available from electronics parts stores) and then check the component connections with a magnifying glass.
I've noticed some suspect solder joints that you may want to inspect more closely to see if they're soldered OK or if they need to be reworked with a soldering iron - see image.
Also in the image is the location of the defrost thermistor which you may want to check as although the heater worked manually it doesn't seem to be working automatically - control board issue perhaps if the thermistor is OK - check for continuity from thermistor to control board connector to make sure.
I've also found the mini manual for the refrigerator that whilst it doesn't show diagnostic tests it has the wiring diagram and also the specifications.
The thermistor (temp sensors) resistance values are shown for the various temperatures. If they're faulty the part number is WR55X10025.
There are two thermistors in the freezer compartment. One is used for the air temp sensing i.e. temp shown on display and the other monitors the evap unit temp during the defrost cycle, and is used to signal the control board to turn off the heater if the evap unit gets too warm during a defrost cycle.
The refrigerator uses the adaptive defrost cycle method meaning that the defrost cycle is determined by factors such as ambient temperature and number of times the doors have been opened during normal use, rather then performing the cycle after fixed accumulated compressor run time intervals i.e. adaptive defrost may occur anytime between 10-30 hours of operation whereas the fixed time defrost usually occurs once every 8-12 hours.
(click on image)
@josefuster
If you turn off the ice maker and then connect water to the refrigerator, when you then turn on the ice maker unit, it should automatically begin to fill with water and then stop filling once the water has reached the correct level in the tray. It will only begin to fill when the temp in the ice maker area is approx 15°F. You should hear a buzzing sound when filling. There's a sensor arm in the icemaker that is used to detect the level of the water in the tray
If it's not turning on, I'm not sure but sometimes there's a wiring diagram inside the ice maker housing that shows the circuit.
I know that in most refrigerators it is the ice maker that controls the operation of the ice maker water inlet valve and not the control board i.e. when to open the valve to fill the ice maker and when to shut it off when it is full so that ice can be formed. That is if the ice maker is turned on.
Regarding the dispenser flap it could be a faulty dispenser door solenoid or a broken door recess crank and spring see videos in links
The manufacturer's part numbers for the parts shown in the link are the ones for your model.
1 
405 
1.5k 
