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Dyson V15 Detect stops after a few seconds with no indicators

I've had it for nearly 2 years. The problem occurs when I press the trigger—it runs for a few seconds and then stops (with its signature "wooump" sound). It repeats this 2-3 times before eventually working. However, now I can't get it to run for longer than a few seconds, even after several tries.

I’ve changed the filter and cleaned everything I can access. In some forums, I’ve read that it might be an issue with the "main body," (whatever that means) while others suggest it could just be a cracked trigger, which should be an easy fix.

Answer this question I have this problem too

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Also note that I have since been able to fix the old motor. In short, the problem is the capacitors that stabilize the current for the motor windings (470μF, if I remember correctly). These seem to have been so close to spec, that a -10% degradation were enough to ripple the voltage supply to the extent that the controller assumes a battery drop and shuts off. My solution was to add another 3x10μF ceramic caps to the board (there is a bit of space there) and let them take the transient current.

IMHO this was under-engineering in Dyson's part, that they failed to design a sufficient margin for component degradation, cable+connector resistance as well as the battery's impedance. As if that were designed only for brand-new components.

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Any chance you can identify the capacitors and steps to replace them?

This problem seems to be an issue for many after reviewing the Dyson Community page.

https://community.dyson.com/general-disc...

Mine is doing the same thing. Turn it on ~10 times and after that it stays on.

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This man literally is the only one in the WHOLE INTERNET to have figured out the problem. There isn’t a solution to this besides getting a new part from Dyson that will have the same defect eventually. PLEASE MR show us exactly how u did it , so we can do the same. Please I beg u !

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Adding capacitors does work!! Just added 2-47uF capacitors and issue is fixed. Thank you Panos

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Hi Peter, would you be able to educate us on how to add 2-47uF capacitors? Im not afraid to open it up, just need to know how to add and where to get the capacitors. I havent read anywhere how this is done. Id be ever so grateful to you.

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Hello guys, is there any image of capacitors? I have absolutely no idea what to disassemble to reach what I need. I found some discussions about faulty capacitors here and in Reddit but there are no pictures of faulty parts. When I know what to change or bypass, I can solder, but I'm not that advanced to found those faulty parts.

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If the three electrolytic capacitors on the other side of the circuit board are already too worn, the repair using ceramic capacitors will no longer work. In that case, the electrolytic capacitors would need to be replaced with new ones: 270-330µF, 35V, max. 10mm diameter, 12mm high, and minimum 105°C with low ESR.

Best regards, Mario

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Thanks Mario, I replaced the 3 x 270 capacitors with 3 new 330MF, 35 Volts, 10mm dia, 12mm hight and 125°C, Manufacturer Illinois part 337AVG035MGBJ bought from eBay. My Dyson V15 works fine now

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Same here. On my case, vacuum would run [normally] after trying these start-stop cycles many times (10+), getting the machine "hot" first. Problem started of light (1-2 stops, then normal) , then got worse (8-10 stops before it would run). Under warranty, got the motor body replaced and now the new motor (against the same battery) works fine.

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Hello, does 3x10uf mean 3 10uf 50v? Where exactly do you add it on the board?

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@ahmet66662 I have provided some clarity below - although did not work for me due a different issue. Let me know if you need

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I've managed to fix my v15 detect too, thanks for sharing this @panoschristeas!

While I was trying to peel off the glue, I realized that using larger SMD capacitors (10uF 50V X7R SMD 1210 CL32B106KBJNNNE SAMSUNG) between the legs of the original ones might be less intrusive since you don't need to disconnect almost anything. You just need to unscrew the white cap and peel the glue around the legs of the old caps, then solder the SMD capacitors between them as shown in this photo (I realized that a few moments after disconnecting everything and peeling the glue).

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Brilliant fix - I had complicated mine for no reason. Ended up buying the replacement part

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Hi Marek @c0nsi, thanks a lot for your detailed instructions! I followed your steps and my V15 started working on Eco and Medium but not on the Boost mode. Does your vacuum work on Boost after the fix?

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Yes it does, maybe ones that you have degraded even more, try using bigger capacitors

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Good to hear that @c0nsi! Do you mean to use similar SMD capacitors in parallel but with greater capacitance, e.g. 20 uF or more? Or replace the original ones?

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I tried to add 22 uF capacitors instead but it didn't work. So I replaced orginal capacitors with Panasonic 270uF 35V EEHAZT1V271B and it worked on boost as well. Then added the recommended 10 uF SMD ones in parallel for durability.

A few videos I found useful:

- Disassembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeS1R7Zk...

- Disassembly of Motor PCB: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbJPiBa6...

- Soldering tips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgDqgixK...

- Soldering basics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jAw41LR...

- Desoldering to remove old capacitors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bG7yW9Fi...

- Reassembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWgLBgmA...

I didn't cover PCB in transparent resin, let me know if you've used a specific one. I think it'll help protect the vacuum from overheating on boost.

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Could the additions mentioned on the boards be the marked areas on the v10 model? Empty on the v12 card.

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So, yes, these are the extra pads! Two are on the flip side of the capacitors (as you show), the other is on the same side as them. If you look at the traces, they are definitely in parallel and close to the big 330μF caps.

Note that you don't need any big cap in parallel, rather a /fast/ one. That is, a 1-10μF ceramic will do a better job than a 22μF electrolytic. Reason is, you want to compensate for the inrush current to the coils, not the energy.

I didn't know about V10 (that it had the extra caps as you show), now that I see that board I could guess that the manufacturer had the capacitors, but removed them in V15.

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@panoschristeas do you have a picture of the fix for reference?

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Unfortunately, I haven't. As you see in the pictures by Joe, the whole thing was potted in protective coating, I spent some time removing enough of it to trace the electronic problem and then replaced it, but hadn't taken any pictures of the bare board. Now it's so difficult to take it apart again.

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Thank you panos :) Did I understand your writing correctly? What is the 10μF voltage you specified? (16v-50v). I have a Dyson V12. It has a stalling problem. If we install 3 10μFs, will this solve the problem? Is this the same as what you wrote?

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Did you change the capacitors (270uf 35v) or did you add a 10uf ceramic capacitor?

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hi panos. I found a photo online of a Dyson V15. Would installing a 10uf ceramic capacitor in the marked areas solve the problem? What solution is it talking about?

I apologize for my inadequate English translation.

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yes, you are right, these are the 3 positions where you can add capacitors.

I used 10μF because I had them available, it could be that even smaller ones do the job.

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thank you panos. 10uf voltage (25-50)? Did doing this completely fix the problem?

hangi kılıf smd kullanılmalı 805?

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I think there is a need for a recall on this issue or an extended warranty

It is not logical that so menu units are defected with the same issue and about the same time

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I have attempted the fix as suggested by @panoschristeas myself! Unfortunately I managed to &&^&@@ it up (probably from overheating the PCB). In any case, sharing my findings with you all:

  • The motor assembly main PCB is located within the main body housing under the LCD screen. For disassembly instructions See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeS1R7Zk...
  • The circuit carries three (3) capacitors of 270 microfarads each, so total capacitance of 810 microfarads. They are through hole capacitors (yes they look like SMDs), and seem to be rated at 31 volts. Not sure about the voltage as the markings are not familiar to me.
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  • I have tried to add 10 microfarad capacitors, but the space was not comfortable enough for me to work with (I am fairly unexperienced with soldering)
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so instead, I replaced just one of the capacitors with 330 microfarad capacitor resulting in total capacitance of 870 microfarads which is not too much more than what @panoschristeas added.

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For some reason, when I re-assembled everything back, nothing turned on. I am getting voltage in my capacitors, so it must be something else. Again not sure - I have now bought a replacement motor assembly.

Hope this helps someone and if you do get any questions or feedback let me know, i'll help as much as I can. Thanks

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It is necessary to add 3 capacitors without removing them. What does the board 3X10uf mean? (10 uf 16v-35v-50v ?) How to add to the board?

How to add a 10μF (3x10μF?) ceramic capacitor in parallel to a 270μF 35v capacitor?

10uF 25V 10% x7R 1206 SMD capacitor?

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@ahmet66662 seeing Panos' reply above, I may have over done it unnecessarily. Adding the 3 10uf smd caps in parallel seems to be enough. Adding them in parallel - > extend the connectors side by side and that would be fine (I stand to be corrected).

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Hello,

I have the same problem with Dyson.

I have been trying to buy capasitors the same as oryginał. But there is problem to buy it in Poland.

Can anybody tell what will happen if i will use

330 microF 35v ?

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Using capacitors rated for higher voltage is ok, in principle.

However, on this application, what matters is the temperature rating and the quality of the capacitor: if your vacuum is not working because the previous capacitors have lost 10% of their nominal capacity [*], then you don't want the next caps. to degrade in the same way.

[*] actually, it's the ESR that may matter more than the capacity..

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@tombik38871 did you manage to fix it yourself? I'm also located in Poland and trying to do it myself, but I'm a total novice to the subject.

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Hi, @paulina83105 , @tombik38871

did you succeed? what was your result?

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@matKBC i actually didn't. Also, i'm user of v12 if this matters. I've managed to change those capacitors with some help (i was also adviced on which to buy) and when i assembled the motor back it didn't start at all. 😅 So i made it worse. 😬 I guess current is not present on the motherboard, but as i mentioned I have literally zero experience, yet i decided to give it a shot. I'm not done with it yet, i'll try to confirm with someone smarter than me if i killed it completely. 🤡

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@paulina83105 Hi, if you're still trying to fix your v12, I can help. I'm from Gdynia. I recently fixed v15. You can contact me at volturia.pl

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I am trying to find the value of the small cap that is highlihted in green. any assistace plase. Thank you

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That’s a frustrating issue you’re facing with the Dyson V15 Detect stopping after a few seconds with no error lights. One common cause is restricted airflow—if filters or hose passages are blocked, the vacuum’s protection system may shut it off to avoid damage. According to user reports, another deeper issue can be aging or weakened capacitors in the motor assembly, visagesculpture.com causing the system to mistakenly detect a fault and cut power.

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I have the same problem. The question is, if the treatment fails, how much does this chip cost?

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Hi,

So I have the same problem, added 3 ceramic caps (50v 4.7uF) but it didn't worked.
I also tried to disconnect the screen (I've read somwere it fixed the issue).

I'll buy the replacement from Dyson.
Thank you for your help

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You need to replace those 3 capasutors, they have internal resistance of 1.3-1.9Om

The new one is something about 0.1-0.3Om

And then add smd capasutors in parallel to them

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In my case I juzt added a 470 uF 35 volt low esr cap across the battery in the handle itself and all is well. This I did to save me dismantling the cleaner body, a very easy fix, not professional at all but it works.

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@evimarn Could you post a picture of the fix? I'm not sure where to fit these caps in the way you describe, but it sounds like an easier / less intrusive fix as the others...

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Only additional capasutors is not the valud solution.

Resistance of large capasutors will grow

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Kaspars Naglis will be eternally grateful.
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