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Model A1181: 1.83, 2, 2.1, 2.13, 2.16, 2.2, or 2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo processor

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head phone jack broken in headphone socket

I've got he same problem, too.I already opened the upper case, but couldn't reach to the headphone socket, without breaking something.Is there any guide how i continue after having opened?

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As they told you in the original question, that I report here after the opening of your new question just to avoid you from reading both questions at once, you should first try with a pair of thin needle nose pliers, trying carefully to grab the jack.

Failing the needle nose pliers, you could try some of this other workarounds:

  1. Use a straw: cut it so you can "roll" in the socket, then push all the way into and try to move it around. If you're lucky, it should "disengage" the broken tip and the spring keeping the connector pushed on it, so, pushing carefully the straw out, the plug will follow
  2. Failing that, but having to apply the utmost care to avoid further damage, you could try applying some fast-drying but strong glue on a Q-tip without the cotton or other thin piece of plastic and/or metal. Eventually using the straw to avoid smearing glue and damaging everything else, connect with the broken jack, let it dry and gently push out

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2 Comments:

Thank you for your response.I've heard about thoses two possible options.

The thing is; that it does make no difference, if i have removed th upper case or not, because the distance between the headphone socket and the needle nose pliers stays the same.i need to get closer to the headphone socket, so that i can apply with the needle nose pliers.

I thought i could remove more from the components sourrounding..

by

That's why I suggested only workaround that don't involve removing the I/O board and the Top Case at all. Failing that, only the strong magnet option stands.

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Nice to see a site where people help each other. I have read your two suggestions and found the suggestion of using a straw (or other stiff plastic which can be wound in a cone form to be inserted) good, but came up with another solution.

Don't spend your day taking your machine apart only to find you are no nearer the problem. Instead spend the same time looking in your tray of "bits and pieces" to find a tiny "self tapper" screw. This is one with very sharp threads. It needs to be smaller than the 3.5mm plug itself. If you are lucky then the break in the plug will have left some of the plastic insulation in the middle and the aim is then to insert the screw into the remains of the broken plug and tighten it up against this plastic until you feel that it is holding enough to be able to pull it. Not too much force is needed as long as you get a tight fit and the screw can be easily removed with the remains of the plug on the end.

I have taken some pictures which hopefully you will be able to see (I presume there is somewhere to upload the detailed pictures which I have taken the bother of snapping). I don't see any pictures except some items which are being sold. Hope you have enough imagination to see what I mean above. And then enjoy the music!!

P.S. I don't think much of the "strong magnet" solution since it is possible that you could damage other items near the headphone socket with the magnetic fields. Or perhaps I am being over cautious having at one time worked with floppy disks.

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pqid will be eternally grateful.
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