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Repair and disassembly information for Google's Pixel 7 Pro smartphone, released in October 2022. Identified by model number GP4BC and GE2AE.

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Replacing rear battery case of Pixel 7 Pro

The title pretty much says it all, but I can add some more details. I bought a used Pixel 7 Pro a while back. Shortly thereafter I dropped it and shattered the rear bottom panel. I took it to a local shop for repair which they did quick and fairly cheap. But I noticed tonight that it's shattered again despite no major drops. The glass seems to be much worse quality than the original. So I was looking around for parts to attempt the repair myself this time. Nothing I've found outside ifixit seems to be high quality, but ifixit only has the part for Pixel 8 pro in stock. Which leads to my question in the title. The case I have my phone in is actually for the 8 pro and the dimensions seem identical. Do you all think the 8 pro rear panel would work for my 7 pro?

Update (04/15/24)

Hello again @jayeff (and anyone else willing to jump in on this). I took your advice and tracked down a new battery cover. When it came in I realized it includes the edge bezel and other parts I didn't expect. Here's an image of what I got: https://rounded.com/google-pixel-7-pro-g...

So now my question is, do you think it would be easier to remove the bezel from the new part and apply only the back labels to the original bezel. Or would I be better off removing the screen and moving all the parts into the new bezel/battery case?

Thanks in advance for the advice!

Sam

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Hi Sam,

Fellow Pixel owner here (6 Pro). Given you've already broken two rear covers, I'd suggest not messing with its attachment to the frame, but rather just bite the bullet and go ahead with the recommended rear cover replacement procedure. I don't see one on iFixit, but the Spanish site Nadie Me Llama Gallina (Nobody Calls Me Chicken) has exactly what you need to do the job.

Manuales / Google Pixel 7 Pro / Carcasa trasera con componentes - Nadie Me Llama Gallina

The site supposedly has an English language option, but it looks like it only translates the titles and not the text in each step of the procedure, so you'll need to use Chrome's translation feature with it if you don't speak Spanish. Otherwise it's a well done guide and will get you through the process with little pain.

Best of luck and let us know how it all turns out!

Update (04/16/24)

@sam78861 This is a fairly complex repair and of course there's always a chance something could go wrong.

That being said, I'd say yes, follow the guide carefully. The places I got into trouble when I was starting out were in getting the FPC connectors plugged in without damaging them; the secret here is to put your finger on it and press down lightly until you feel it drop into its proper location, then press it into the connector until it clicks. You should never have to push hard to get one plugged in.

Another place to watch out for is in removing the screen. Work carefully and use plenty of heat; I wouldn't recommend a heat gun, as I've gotten a screen too hot with one and ended up ruining it, but a hair dryer and/or an iOpener will do the job just fine. If you feel resistance, heat it up some more, working around the edges until it's open. Use several guitar/opening.picks to keep it from sticking back down as you work.

Finally, a screw mat is invaluable and a must have for any Apple product, but it's a little less of a requirement for an Android phone as they tend not to use as many different screws. That being said, pay attention to where the screws came from and do your best to get them back where they came from.

When putting it back together, clean the screen off well with Q-Tips and 90% or higher concentration isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol; don't get carried away, as it can cause problems if you get it into the display itself - it's usually okay after it dries, but if you're somewhat frugal with it, it won't be a problem in the first place.

Finally, grab. couple of sheets of precut adhesive for the screen. The thing is, it's not forgiving whatsoever, so if you don't get it on right the first time, you don't get a second chance at it; instead you'll end up with a tangled ball of glue, so having a spare on hand will keep you from having to wait to reorder before you can put the phone back together. Yes, I speak from experience, lol.

When gluing screens down, I usually secure it in place then heat it up like I did to open it, but then either clamp it, put some rubber bands around it, or set some weight on it and leave it for a while; I tend to try and wait at least a half hour, but if it's not a hurry I like to let it sit overnight.

When unplugging the FPC connectors, use a plastic tool; you're a lot less likely to damage something else with a plastic spudger vs. something made of metal. Use care that you don't damage any surface mount components that are mounted to the board right next to the connector you're unplugging.

Likewise when you get the the tiny little coax connectors, use tweezers to grasp the connector by the metal part; don't try to remove it by holding it by the cable itself. Like the FPC connectors, use care when plugging it back in; use the same strategy of pressing lightly with a finger until you feel it slip in place before pressing it down.

When removing the battery again, don't use metal tools; a plastic card is good, but a plastic spatula will do the job. Using syringe to squirt some isopropyl alcohol under the battery will help loosen the glue and make it easier to remove; if it's really stubborn heat the rear of the case as well; never heat the battery itself. Be careful not to deform or damage the battery in any way; if you do the best thing would be to replace it rather than risk using a battery that's been bent, scratched or dented. Of course, should you accidentally tear the outer cover, you must then replace it.

Well, hopefully I've covered most of the learning experiences (i.e., major screw-ups) I've made and with any luck that'll help you avoid gaining your experience the same way I did.

As you've noted, this is a rather complex repair and perhas not one I'd recommend for a first phone repair, so while I would encourage you to go for it, if you're not confident in your ability to get through it, there's no shame in calling in the experts and taking your phone and replacement part into a shop to have them do the job for you.

Good luck; take it slow, follow the directions and be sure to ask for help if you get stuck!

I'll be looking forward to hearing how it all turns out for you!

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Hey Jerry,

Thank you very much for your input and for sharing this link. That's kind of how I was leaning (especially since it sounds like the wireless coil can't be plugged in without removed a bunch of parts anyway) but I appreciate the confirmation. This will be my first time repairing a phone. Is it going to be risky doing a more complex repair like this my first time or do you think I'll be okay if I carefully follow the guides?

Thanks again!

Sam

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Hey @dadibrokeit, thanks for such detailed advice!

So I took a shot at the repair following the guides. I managed to get it open and all the parts out and then into the new case. However, when I put the screen back on and tested it before gluing it down, there was a thick white line going down the left side of the screen, a black spot on the upper right corner, and the touch screen was completely unresponsive. Other than that the lock screen appeared as usual and the volume and side buttons were functioning correctly so I'm hoping that the rest of the hard was reinstalled correctly and working.

I'm assuming I broke the screen somehow. Both upper corners of the frame on on the back of the screen separated during the screen removal. And the copper foil on the back of the screen was wrinkled in the upper left corner. I'm guessing the problems on the screen stem from this. Would you think this would also account for the unresponsive touch screen or could there be another issue somewhere?

Thanks again!

Sam

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@sam78861 Ouch, dangit, been there, done that. Yeah, I'm afraid it sounds like screen damage; there are delicate connections around the outside edge of the screen that are unfortunately all too easy to break, and that sounds like what has probably happened.

Unfortunately, it does sound like you're now in the market for a new screen. The only other possibility would be if there's an issue with the connector where the screen plugs into the motherboard. I'd suggest unplugging it and inspecting both sides carefully with a magnifying glass and a bright light. You're looking for any bent or broken pins on either side. Bent pins can sometimes be straightened with fine tip tweezers. Check the ribbon cable itself for any tears or sharp creases; that could also be an issue.

Clean both connectors with 90% or higher concentration of isopropyl alcohol, give it a moment to dry then try reconnecting and retesting. If it still doesn't work, then I'm afraid the next step is likely a new screen, sorry to say.

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Hi Jerry,

Thanks as usual for your generous advice and expertise! There wasn't any apparent damage to the cable or connectors, so I went ahead and bought a new screen. It came in and I plugged it in to test it and it worked perfectly. Then it was a matter of applying the graphite sheet and screen adhesive. I was a bit nervous given the warnings I'd had from you and others on how mistake prone the screen adhesive can be. But I managed to get it on the first try! The blue plastic guides really help. Once the screen was in place, everything on the phone seems to be working like new! Despite the one mistake removing the screen, it felt really good to pull off this repair successfully. Thank you again for all of your help!

Sam

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@sam78861 Alright, Sam, way to go! Congratulations on a successful repair! That was a big one to start out with, and yeah, it went a little wrong with damaging the screen getting it off, but that happens to all of us sooner or later. I just yesterday finished an iPhone X repair where in addition to the part I was replacing, I had to put on a new screen because I damaged the old one getting it off - and I've replaced a LOT of iPhone X screens!

So all in all, I'd say you did awesomely for your first attempt and now you've got a whole new housing and new screen, so the phone should look like it's brand new! Very nice, my friend.

And thanks for letting us know how it all turned out; each repair can be an excellent learning experience for all of us, so hearing about yours may help the next guy who has that problem.

High five, Sam! Time to celebrate!

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Most Helpful Answer

Hi @sam78861

Even though the dimensions are nearly identical I don't think that they're interchangeable.

Main reasons are that the flash lens for the rear camera is in a slightly lower location on the back cover for the 7 Pro than it is for the 8 Pro (see red arrow in image below) and also the camera lenses are different as well which may affect the quality of any pictures that you take. See image below.

Best option is perhaps search for the Google part number of the cover, applicable to the colour that you want, to find suppliers that suit you best

Pixel 7 Pro dimensions and battery cover part numbers

162.9 x 76.6 x 8.9 mm (6.41 x 3.02 x 0.35 in)

colour = hazel, part # G949-00296-01

colour = obsidian, part # G949-00295-01

colour = snow, part # G949-00297-01

Pixel 8 Pro dimensions and battery cover part numbers

162.6 x 76.5 x 8.8 mm (6.40 x 3.01 x 0.35 in)

colour = bay, part # G949-00695-01

colour = obsidian, part # G949-00693-01

colour = porcelain, part # G949-00694-01

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Hey @jayeff!

Thanks for the detailed response. I wasn't to worried about the camera module because it's only the panel below it that shattered. But I suppose buying the whole 180 euro kit for the one panel might be overkill. So I'll see what I can find with what you suggested. Thanks again!

Sam

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Sam will be eternally grateful.
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