Model A1369, 1.6, 1.7, or 1.8 GHz Processor, 64, 128 or 256GB Flash Storage

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How do I get to the keyboard?

I was going through the teardown of the MacBook Air and i have noticed that there was no instruction to how to replace the keyboard. my keyboard was busted and i need to replace it any help

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I used the guide from here for top-case replacement, then do these steps

I went to local Fry's Electronics and purchased a Pro's Kit part #SD-9326M that had all the necessary bits and tools needed for US$35.

No need to spend $250 for a new upper case, I figured: what did I have to loose?

I found a brand new keyboard $45.95 (included priority shipping) from MCCComputers.com

Steps: Remove keyboard:: CAREFULLY, remove all #000 Philips head screws around the outside edge of the keyboard on the logic board side of top case. Then, i started at one end, four keys at a time and started rocking around the four corners and pressing firmly in sections (from the side where you usually type on the keys, inward) until the rivets started popping out. MAKE SURE YOU ARE DOING THIS IN AN ENVIRONMENT THAT IS CLEAN and SMOOTH SURFACES. They go everywhere!

Reassembly:use 3M #77 adhesive spray on the aluminum casing to reattach and make up for lost rivets. Snap in rivets with flat end of T-15 bit and screw-in edge screws.

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You have to replace the topcase with keyboard included. It's not easy, I did one for a guy in Shanghai. The main risk is taking the cables off the logic board as the mountings come off very easily.

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I don't think this is right anymore. The 2011 (and later?) Macbook Air keyboard may be replaceable by removing about 50 tiny screws. Will let you know next week :-) See this: MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement and this: https://www.l2order.com/ViewLarge.cfm?id...

UPDATE: it's not so simple. There are about 40 screws and 50 rivets. Your mileage may vary, but I was able to remove all of the tiny screws and then slowly pop out the old rivets (by prying up the old keyboard -- which more-or-less destroys it -- but it was broken anyway). I was then able to screw in the new keyboard and firmly press each rivet back in place, one at a time, with the tips of a small pliers. I can't be sure they will hold but they seem to have seated well, and my hope is that the back-light assembly would at least prevent a couple of stray rivets from causing any trouble. Will update if they pop out in the future or I have any issues.

Anyone have any insights on that?

(this content more-or-less cross posted from another thread here Replacement keyboard for A1369)

Update 2/14/2013: For what it's worth, the rivets have all held in place just fine for the past 5 months.

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Keyboard only is available online at ebay. From china (not recommended) and from New York.

As the guy above said it is not easy to do the repair. It requires removing everything. Logic board, battery, speakers. It will be the most difficult repair ever. After removing logic board and battery and you have not broken the speakers in half the keyboard is riveted in. Getting the rivets out requires simply ripping out the keyboard. Careful of the edges they are sharp. Most of the rivets will come out and you can use the resulting holes with A1278 keyboard screws.

For someone brave enough to literally rip out the Macbook Air keyboard I hope this helps someone.

Now to find out if the 2011 Macbook Air keyboard is compatible with the 2010 version. I halfway tested already with broken 2011 keyboard. Flex cable fits and computer turns on almost all keys work. Could not test all keys since the broken keyboard only half the keys worked. It appears all the screw holes are the same but I did not see the top portion of the keyboard.

Update

2011 has two keyboard versions. Both will function on mid 2010 but with different mislabeled F keys. One you can switch the top portions of the keys and the second one from 2011 has different style keys and brackets which would not allow simply switching the keys.

More Update. I now just rip the old keyboard out after taking surrounding screws out. I tend to curl the keyboard while removing it. I am left with many empty holes where the rivets use to be. I use extra keyboard screws to screw the keyboard back in. No need for adhesive. If in a real pinch I lessened the screw count only screwing in every other screw on the surround outside and used the remaining on the center parts.

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After reading all these comments, I've decided I can live without the use of the letter u and the number 7.

The risk of breaking something while dismantling things is too great. I already have an iMAC and the Macbook Air is more of a convenience 'toy' than anything else. It would be an expensive $1300 'toy' if I further ruined it by attempting this multi, multi-step guide.

I already bought and received the $59 tool kit today, but I'd kick myself if I broke something and ended up with a useless laptop.

So, thank you to all of you who submitted your comments.

Great website for those who DO feel confident in their abilities!!

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When the keyboard and mouse suddenly stopped worked on my Macbook Air I impulsively took it to the Apple Genus Bar. Guess what they told me? The top-case needs to be replaced and that will cost $700.

So I searched ifixit.com for answers and found an excellent tutorial on how to replace the top-case. Mayer referenced the link above. In my case, pun intended, I replaced the trackpad, which ended up fixing both the keyboard and trackpad. I saved hundreds of dollars, and although it was an onerous process, the money saved made it worth it.

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Please tell us the symptoms you had so that only replacing the trackpad seemed, and was, the correct thing to do. This may help others. Thanks

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I actually didn't know to only replace the trackpad. I was determine to replace both; however, I ended up stripping the T8 screw that connects the motherboard to the computer frame so my only option was to replace the trackpad. I think this fixed things because both the trackpad and keyboard are connected inside the Mac. So replacing one fixed the other.

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No T8 screw holds the logic board. Only possible T8 is the hinge screws. Mostly just T5 screws.

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You can find and buy your keyboard from the web site: http://www.laptopcpufan.co.uk/ .

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Kris will be eternally grateful.
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