First generation Apple iPad with Wi-Fi, available with 16, 32, or 64 GB. Model Number A1219. Repairs are straightforward and do not require heat.

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Digitizer(Touch screen), Not responding after Tear down.

Hello,

I am experienced in almost all Mac hardware,but i am stumped w/ this issue. Any Help would be great!(iPad 64gb Wifi)

I tore down my iPad to replace a peeling digitizer. Upon reassembly, The iPad was working O.K., but the digitizer was locking up and responding very poorly. I decided it must need replaced and ordered a new digitizer through ebay. Now after replacing the digitizer, the touch screen will not respond...

The home button works fine, as well as power/volume/lock.The screen also still inverts. Plus it charges and is recognized in iTunes. I have tried resetting it Via Home+power. Any help would be Great!

UPDATE:

It has been nearly a year now, So I figured it can't hurt anything to try a new digitizer. My Ipad still powers on, resets, inverts, connects to itunes, chargers etc. etc. etc. I have thought about this thoroughly and there is no other logical answer besides the digitizer I received is defective.

When the iphone 4 was new alot of the replacement screens were garbage, and I think it ws the same with the iPads. I originally believed I had damaged the logic board when the retaining clips on the logic board broke off, but after speaking to an electrical engineer, He doesn't believe this makes since. He fixed his broken retaining clips using a thin strip of mylar tape under the tab. I ordered a roll of mylar tape and the entire display assembly which includes the display, midboard, digitzer, clips, etc and a roll of mylar tape for 60$, I will update as soon as I receive the shipment.

Update 2:

Replaced the digitizer again, and no change. As a conclusion, this board is fried, and my iPad is a useless paperweight... I would not recommend buying a logic board for one of these, it's just to much money compared to an ipad 2 16gb. It is really unfortunate, Everything works software and hardware wise, but the screen just doesn't respond to touch. You may be able to salvage some of your loses selling it for parts on ebay.

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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i have the exact same problem as you.......someone help us please!!!

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Hello,(Ivannahump?) I will be posting here, as i hopefully, Fix this iPad. I wish there was a Pm option so we could collaborate on this. Im leaning toward A. replace the logic board B. Try a different digitizer( Certain iPhones have had this issue w/ digitizers that were not meant for this exact iPhone(example), Some providers may package digitizers that they incorrectly believe will work for any models etc. I haven't tried a software reset yet, but I'm doubtful it would help. have you? post anything you have already tried or are curious about here, so we can compare. Are you using the same model?(I've checked all connections 1000 times!)

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I am having the same problem as well. I am going to contact the seller to try to get a replacement.

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Yep, I thought it was kind of a long shot too. I found a previous post related ti this on here by a guy on here who is an engineer and messaged him to see if I was understanding him correctly. Long story short, I have now recommended this fix to a few people who have used it successfully. The guys I've spoke to have recommended using mylar, so thats what I have been using. I think one of the big reasons it's recommended is because it is very thin. Mylar is expensive though, I don't think it could possibly hurt to use the thinnest non conductive tape you have laying around.

I really wish I could fix my 64gb ipad, but I am just kind of over it now. Cost wise it just doesn't make sense. I'm thinking about grabbing a samsung galaxy 2 7.0 this week, so I don't have to carry my 15" pro in it's pelican case to class everyday.

Good Luck! Hope this works for you!

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Has anyone tried those service that solder a new "receptacle" onto the logic board. id love to fix this for less than $150!

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What I did personally, which seemed to be a good "Permanent fix" was i purchased a roll of 3/4" mylar tape off amazon for about $8.I cut a thin strip the same size as the ends of the digitizer ribbon cable, then I attached it to the top (Opposite side of the gold on the ribbon cable). What this did was create a spacer between the ribbon cable and the socket it fits into, making it harder for the ribbon cable itself to come loose.

If this doesn't make sense let me know and I can email you some pictures!

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Wxcarne89:

Can you please post some pictures of the Mylar tape repair. Would really appreciate it.

Thanks

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could you send e the picture 2?

thanks

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"He fixed his broken retaining clips using a thin strip of mylar tape under the tab".

Wxcarne89, What do you mean by this statement.

I replaced 3 screens and took a few apart and had no problems.

The digitizers I got had the clips allready screwed on.

The ones I took apart for minor fixes I had to get new clips, as most

clips break when you use the flat opening tool.

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Hello,

I am referring to the poorly designed retaining flaps located on the logic board itself (that hold the digitizer ribbon cable in place). These retaining flaps are "supposedly" designed to only be used a few times, similar to how the pentalobe screws on the iP4 are meant to strip easily.

To anyone who has had these flaps break off, I can vouch for using mylar tape to hold the ribbon cable in place.

The digitizer clips, for the frame, almost always need replaced. i finally figured out how to get the digitizers off without breaking the clips. The first few times I removed a digitizer, the clips were a total loss.

by

O.K. now I understand. I somehow missed that you were referring about the retaining flaps for the dig. cable.

It's lots of fun fixing ipads, ipods and iphones.

My biggest problem lately is getting good parts on ebay.

It's all knock off chinese junk.

Apple is the worst problem of all. They provide no support whatsoever. No repair info, no parts info, no nothing. If it's out of warranty they just want you to buy a new product.

Thank god we have IFIXIT. They are the greatest.

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I had the same problem however, upon further inspection it was just that I had not recognised that there were two black clips that needed to be flicked up in the digitizer connection. I overlooked this because it removed easily and I did not need to flick the clips up to get it out.

I was pulling my hair out over this one LOL!!!

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holy mother load of shiz man!! I'd literally tried everything to get this stupid 3 functioning again. i read your post and was like, "what clips is he talking about, this guy is crazy talking about clips on the.......uhh....ohhh....hmmmm....Looky there, little itsy bitsy bastard clips that i've probably passed over like 600,009 times" i just unclipped all of them, pushed all the connections tight, clipped them back up and shazamm!! Everybody is happy again. By everybody, i mean me and the anti Apple voices in my head!! Serious man, thanks for posting and saving my sanity!!

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You are both my HEROs!!! I was like the same thing... What black clips are they talking about and just like you stated, "these guys are crazy... uhh....ohhh....hmmmm, looky, looky, those little b@st@rd clips did the trick... THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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i dont know if im just dumb but i have no idea what you are talking about

i cant find anywhere a good video showing what i need to do SOME ONE PLEASE HELLPPP

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If you look at the part that connects the ipad to the digitizer (like where you plug the ribbon in at) the little black piece, that's on the ipad, has a tiny little clip on each side of it. If you have ever replaced a ram stick in a laptop or pc, it's the same concept basically. They're f'n tiny on the ipad though. When you initially pulled the ribbon out, the clips don't come undone or even hold it in for that matter. Every thing that plugs any ribbon in has them on it. I just unclipped them and the ribbon slides in just a bit more and clipped them back shut. Apologies for the lack of proper names for everything, guess i just don't care enough to learn them, haha....

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This was the fix!

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I got it working with the 2nd replacement digitizer.

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I just wanted to report back to all the doubters and the hopers alike: The mylar tape fix worked!!

I used the method described by previous posters: get some mylar or kapton tape off the internet. I bought from amazon. I paid about $10 shipped. I could have gotten it cheaper, but I wanted it as fast as possible. Make sure you get the one that specifies that it is an insulator because otherwise you may end up shorting together some of the pins on the ribbon cable. This take will act as a spacer, pushing the contacts on the cable against the pins on the logic board. All I did was attach a tiny piece of tape on the back side (side with no contacts) of the cable. I covered the entire back including the little dotted white line. That line has to be almost completely invisible (obscured by the connector on the logic board) when the cable is fully inserted.

TEST IT BEFORE YOU CLOSE IT BACK UP!

If it's not working, you either didn't put on enough tape (you can see on mine it took two tries), or you need to push the cable in farther to the connector. Be gentle! And good luck! don't give up, and fix it yourself! I ended up with a fully functional $40 ipad!

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What is the thickness of the mylar tape in thousandths?

You could probably use scotch tape or packaging tape.

I never had a problem with countless opening and closing of

these flaps but will keep this in mind if I ever do.

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The tape worked for me too! Im using Scotch tape. Is there a difference between mylar and scotch tape? We gotta get the word out!! iPad 2 here

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Yeah, one slight major difference. Ever manage to have scotch tape stick to you by the back side (non sticky side)? that's cause it conducts static electricity, something you don't want in the internals of any electronic, especially not an ipad. Just cause it's working now, does not mean it won't eventually short some of the pins on that piece or elsewhere. The reason for mylar is that it is industry know insulator, and in fact you can find it in some other places in the ipad used originally by apple. (holding the light sensor onto the mid-board).

Good luck!

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I ran into similar problem on an IPad 3 and was able to fix it. My problem was with the LCD, not the digitizer. The black retaining clip was broken off.

I used a thin plastic piece, cut to the size of the ribbon cable and push it in, on top of the ribbon cable to thicken it. Instead of the mylar tape, I re-used the screen protector from an old Nintendo DS and cut it to size. I did not think it would work but it did for me after 4,5 tries. I believe any screen protector would do, if you do not have the mylar tape around.

Good luck.

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reset software, reinstall os

check ribbon connection

try different digitzer

new logic board

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This is probably a dumb question, but why do you need mylar tape? Why can't you use say, masking tape..is it too thick? Do you need something for conduction? Or is it also due to the thickness?

Do i just put the tape on top of the digitizer ribbon so it is thicker, and presses the cable to the board? If I put the tape on wrong, will I be able to peel it off without hurting anything? It looks simple, from Tonys' picture...is that really all there is too it?

Sorry, I am just trying to understand the fix... I had to re-read this page a few times to "get it"...!

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i'm new here, so please forgive me. I'd like to consider my self rather saavy when it comes to this kind of thing. I have fixed over 50 iPhones (3GS, 4, 4S, 5) in several months, as well as iPods. I was asked to do an iPad (1st Gen) for the first time. I followed the instructions extremely well, and on the last step, I went to clip the digitizer into it's spot when low and behold the little plastic clip broke off also. Now I'm hoping this is where everyone else is on the same page.

When I test the iPads functionality before clipping it in to the frame, everything is fine.

When I clip in the side with the permanent plastic clips into the frame... everything is fine.

When I clip in the bottom...... everything once again is fine and responsive.

When I clip in the side (closest to the digitizer ribbon) .... the responsive portion of the digitizer STOPS responding.

WHEN I pry open the corner a little using my pry tool.... the responsive portion of the digitizer works again..... of course... I clip it back in... the digitizer stops working. YEEEES, this is frustrating.

IS THIS THE SAME ISSUE as mentioned above? Is this due to too much pressure or not enough pressure on the clamp area? Will me using Mylar tape on the area where the plastic clip broke off for the digitizer piece be enough to fix this??

I'm at a loss and need help ASAP!! Please help or email (i'm not sure how I don't see anyone elses email on here to ask for their help in a one-on-one manner)

Please let me know!! THANKSSSSSSSSS.

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Yes that is the same problem anthe Same solution will work. I still recommend Mylar over other options due to risk static shorting. Good luck!

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Wxcarne89: Hi, your posts have given me some hope, can you help me please? I'm absolutely distraught!! I tried to fix my daughter's ipad mini last night when disaster struck. Two of the gold pins on the digitizer connector on the motherboard have come out and now the digitizer is not working. Just double checking, will the Mylar tape method work for me and if so, I would really appreciate if you would send me the photos of your fix too?

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Mylar tape will not help you in this case unfortunately. The I pad mini is built much differently than the ipad 2.

The connector where the gold pins have pulled out is called the fpc connector and you will have to hAve it replaced. Unless you have some serious experience with microsoldering I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself.

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I too broke the clips when replacing the screen on my ipad 3. So i cut the connecting portion of the ribbon cable from the old screen that I had just removed and slid it into the slot on top of the new ribbon cable. I cut off the excess and this provided a tight connection and my ipad and works like new. I used a randon piece of ribbon cable to do the same for the LCD ribbon cable. If you need help I will be glad to answer your email. Ergrunt@hotmail.com.

Good luck

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I have repaired an ipad 2....I put it all back togetherand now the digitizer wont respond. I didn't break anything. I did everything to the T. Everything works but I cant do anything. Digitizer bad? Im going nuts!

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I have repaired every apple product made and I have learned the hard way you can't buy parts off eBay!!!! Unless it's something simple like button or gasket!! Need to buy parts from somewhere they have warranty on parts like ifixit.com. I have bought plenty of apple parts from they and haven't had any problems

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i also broke the hold down clip on the Zif connector where the LCD ribbon cable plugs in. while doing a battery replacement on a iPad 3 4g. Finished up, No screen. Zo I went back in and tried the tape spacer. The tape I used was in the form of a piece of a postage stamp. I think they are made of mylar. Anyway it seemed to work well but not well enough. Still no screen. The only thing I get is a dull beep when I plug the iPad in to charge. I don't even know if the new battery has taken a charge. Pluged into iTunes and it sees the iPad but says it is locked. I ordered a new LCD today and I'm hoping that works.

I'll keep you posted of any progress. In the meantime, anyone have any sugestions if it does not work. How can I tell if the battery is charged and working if I cannot see the screen?

KD

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OK, without buying any part I got the iPad working again. Battery is charged and working fine. The tape trick seems to have worked..... almost. One side (25%) of the screen is just a little darker then the rest. Opon very close examination of the Zif connector I noticed a crack on the top plastic where the ribbon slips in. I believe that this is the cause of the screen being darker on one side. Because of the crack it will not matter if the tape is putting pressure on the connection in place of the clip, at the point of the crack there will never be enough pressure to make a firm connection at that point. I think that using the tape trick is a good temporary fix but in the end your only long term fix is to replace the Zif connector which is what I will do.

Can anyone recommend a good experienced repair shop in Silicon Valley. Ha Ha. I'm sure there are many but I want someone who has performed this tricky soldering job many times without fail. A specialist of sorts. Any suggestions?

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You can send it off and have the

Clips replaced!!! Look on YouTube

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Hi dB C,

Ordering a new LCD might not help.

Since you are replacing the battery and the LCD was good before, replacing the LCD would not help. The problem is with the Zif connector where the LCD ribbon cable plugs in. If it does not have good contact, it would not work.

From my own experience, I tried to connect and disconnect the cable a few times using different mylar pieces. I was ready to give up when by pure luck, I applied some pressure to the area where the connection located and voila, the screen turned on.

I would suggest to try it again with different "tape/mylar".

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Hi - I am having the same problem (digitizer/touch screen completely non-responsive) and looking for the solution you reference from the guy who was an engineer relating to use of mylar? can you point me to this post?

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Help!!! I need help!!! Please!! I replaced the digitizer on iPad mini and now it's going crazy!!! It zooms in and out and opens apps and choses stuff on it's own...I have taken it off and put it back on several times...I put the black tap from the bottom of the old digitizer over all the copper, as I read somewhere...nothing seems to work...please help

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Cannot see the problem with scotch tape, the tape is on the non-conducting side of the ribbon cable and with the small surface area of tape used I don't believe that it will build up any significant static charge.

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Hi, I recently replaced my iPhone 5s digitizer, mine is the older version without the fingerprint sensor so I believe I may have been sold the wrong version for my phone. However, I am keen to find a fix as I can't get a replacement or refund for it. The digitizer cable plug in the iphone has a small foam pad on the top of it, so I don't know if mylar tape is going to be effective. Is the foam doing the same thing as the tape would or should I be looking for a way to implement this fix with the tape somehow? Any ideas how would be appreciated!

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This could solve the problem:

http://blog.etechparts.com/2013/07/30/tr...

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Wxcarne89 will be eternally grateful.
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