My car turns off while driving without warning.
What would cause my car to turn off while driving, and what would cause it to start with hesitation?
Is this a good question?
What would cause my car to turn off while driving, and what would cause it to start with hesitation?
My 2004 Nissan Sentra one day decided that, after five minutes of idling, it would just die, and it would start up again, and then die.
This wore down the battery, so I got it jumped and tried to drive it to a repair shop... but it died while I was driving it, so I got it towed to the shop.
They saw that my battery was dead, so they replaced it without asking and charged me for it—then my car died while I was driving home angrily. So, the second tow was paid for by the shop. It ended up being a dud sensor... fuel sensor, I believe.
Before you do these, you may consider doing a quick check of your battery terminals. I've actually personally had problems with a Honda civic and a Nissan Sentra where dirty battery terminals caused the vehicles to stop running. The Honda would sometimes shut off mid-turn because the wires would shift slightly and cause the good contact points to disconnect. The Nissan just had so much corrosion built up it wouldn't start at all!
If the terminals look clean the other answers here are an excellent next step.
i had a 1998 honda crv...there was a recall on these the civic, and the accord all the wy back to 1996 till about 2002. i was climbing a mountain pass and the enigine stopped. luckily i was able to drift off the road to the right. i was in the slow lane.
it was the ignition switch, whic was not beefy enough for all the electircal. it was 35.00
i bought the car in 2004 with only 58,000 miles it. the pervious owners had replaced the switch per the recall in the 90's. but still that switch wasnt strong enough.
bought the switch from honda. they finally beefed itup to handle all it needed to,never had a problem after that which was in the fall of 2004.
i always think about what if i was in the fast lane of a crazy freeway. it would have been a scary situation.
hope this helps. these older hondas run forever. and without the internet i probably wouldnt have found out what was wrong with my honda, ignition switch.
i had the same problem back in 2004..i bought a 1998 honda crv with 58,000miles. got it home and it did the same thing going thru the mountain roads to get home. the engine shut off. had it towed home. my brother inlaw said go online to see if there is any posts..well i found one a woman from canada posted in 2000.
i turned out to be the igntion switch... i looked at my paper work from buying the car from a private party..sure enough..they kept excellent records..there was a recall from honda going all the way back to 1996..for replacing the ignition switch...a simple little $35.00 part purchased from honda...lucky for me when it happened to me in 2004 honda had discovered that the switch just wasnt stout enough to handle all the electronics..such as putting your key into the ignition switch to start the car.with that turning on the lights, heater. wipers anything like that.. the switch was not beefy enough..my brother in law said the new switch purchase in 2004 had been made to solve the problem..he came to my house after work. took the dash board cover off...replaced it started the car and it has never happened again and it it now 2016....thanks to the interent and an old post and the people i bought my car from keeping great records of service on the car..i solved the problem. is i found ifixit website and looking for something else. and found all of these people with the same problem..i will answer this question to anyone who post it.. it is worth if becasue the hondas will run past 300,000 miles if we take good care of them...still driving my crv...
you have to get the part from the honda dealer...also after disconnectioning battery ect to fix it. rememember to make sure you have the code for resetting your radio...mine was on the radio itself and had to take the dash apart again to get the code ..it was on the side of the glove box where it was suppose to be..
i hope this helps and you havent spent to much money with all the other suggetions you have tired..
my brother inlaw is excellent at what he does and installs smog. and does repairs..he new enough about a problem to suggest the internet..and there it was. on woman in canada from 2000...
If your car dies and hesitates check your fuel system fuel filter first then look at the fuel lines, look for fuel leaks then are any lines damaged restricting fuel flow, pressure test the fuel system . If you have a engine stethoscope listen to the injectors they should sound like bells ringing, if they sound quiet or dead (thump sound) there's a problem ,nice clean ring is good. Listen for the fuel pump is it running properly. Hope this helps
In my experience with Honda's, try replacing the ignition module. It is located inside the distributor cap.
I found two different ones. One looks like what I am used to.
The other looks like it plugs in to a cable under the dash or out on the firewall.
I had to replace ignition switch with the same symptoms at 175K. It was replaced by recall at ~50K before. All job was 1 hour including beer.
Try wiggle your key in ignition while running. If you can turn it off without distinct feeling of 'click' in the ignition you need to replace the switch. It was switching off for me when I took my leg from the gas pedal on intersections and touched keys hanging from car hey.
Try replacing the ignition switch assembly. I don't know about the 1998-2002 Accord, but there is a known issue with 1996-2001CRVs' ignition switch. There's a Honda recall for these 1st generation CRV for this very problem.
That was a recall by Honda some years ago. I had mine replaced by Honda(recall) . But I had to replace it again myself. So changing out the ignition control module is not a one fix for life job. I don't like how it can happen again. That is a dangerous defect.
When I changed mine out I noticed that the dealership wrote the date on the part. So I did the same with the replacement. It took me about 2 hours to complete this repair. But afterwards I didn't have this issue anymore.
But I would be sitting at a light and it would just cut off getting worse with time.
I had this problem with my 98 civic lx. I replaced the distributor, cap, wires, plugs, fuel filter, ignition switch, and fuel pump. And it still died on me. Usually at intersections, but also quite a few times when i was cruising at 45, even 65 on the interstate. Engine would just conk out, while all electrical stuff stayed on, lights, radio, heater. It would take anywhere between one minute and a half hour to get it to turn over and come back to life. I was really at the end of my rope. Then somebody suggested I replace the main relay. Incredibly easy swap out, just had to take out the glovebox, remove one bolt, one plug, stuck the new one in, and presto, hasn't died on me since.
You know some people replaced everything sensor, fuel stuff ect still had that problembut a honda guru told me check the key tumbler unit. Try bumping the key while going slow on back road. He called it a tumbler switch
Honda Accords of this period (1998-2002) as well as other models are known to have issues with their ignition switch. After 100K miles/10+ years, my car would randomly die while driving and after replacing the ignition switch, the problem never returned. One indication that it might be the ignition switch is if your car ever fails or hesitates to activate the starter when you turn the key to start the engine. Another simple cause could be worn or loose battery terminals (always check the easy stuff first)!
To all having key switch issues in their vehicles:
Leave your other keys off of your ignition key ring. Too much weight from alot of keys will ruin your key switch. I have changed dozens of switches due to this very cause. Honda and Nissan vehicles seem to be more susceptible than other makes, but all can develop this issue. Change your key chain or change your key switch, your choice. ;)
There are many causes fir this. Start with the most simple to the most complex when diagnosis anything through the pricess of elimination:
1- check battery condition, make sure you have a good static charge of 12.4 or 12.6 V when car is off. Check battery terminals to see if they are very dirty, corroded or loose. Follow battery cables to main source make sure no corrosion. Check negative or ground cabke follow to source make sure the other end is tight and clean..
2- inspect ignition switch for problems.. Sometimes car dies inmeduatey after turnibg on, typical of thus priblem
3- check ignition system: distributir coil, and igniter, cap and rotor, moisture can get there causing short curcuit.. Check with spark checker and look for spark
4- Check fuel injectors, maybe clugged due to carbon build up.. Replace them if necessary
5-- check for bad fuel filter, dirty or clugged.. Bad quality fuel.. Could also be an issue.. turn key to on position, you should hear a buzz sound indicating fuel pump is priming.. Check for fuel pressure, loosen bolt on fuel filter, then turn key to on position only, you should see a squart of fuel coming out.. If not, you got a problem.. Before checking fuel pump, make sure its not the fuel filter bad, causing fuel pump to workmore than normal. Very careful, never check for ignition and fuel system at the same time, very dangerous. never smoke when checking for fuel pressure.. Install fuel pressure gage into fuel rail, start engine and see pressure then compare to manufactures pressure.. Hope this can help you..
I'm more seasoned on computers, but I saw this and figured it wouldn't hurt to comment. I just got done dealing with this in my Chevy Trailblazer and the computer system that controls the vehicle had to be replaced to solve this issue. I would be driving down the road and all the sudden the check engine light would come on and the car would die.
Ignition switch or ignition coil. Wiggle the key around when on a backroad or neihood and see if it turns of. Honda notorious for ignition switch or coil located in the distributer housing. If not look at sensors related to fuel sending but i doubt it
Het is een onderbroken massa(-) aansluiting,b v. bij Porsche.
Of het heeft zelfontbranding in de cilinders door koolrestanten van vorige verbrandingen.
Voor betere verbranding zie transistorontsteking voor verbrandingsmotoren benzine/gas
met contactpunten bij de ontsteking.
Joost Bosman emmen nederland.
I have 2000 Honda Accord, and I shut down my car with a key and after 2 minutes I try to start but did not start and even my car was totally dead, MY engine oil is good and everything is good. but don't know what happened
does anyone know about it why it is doing like this?
Past 24 Hours: 58
Past 7 Days: 409
Past 30 Days: 2,211
All Time: 323,250