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Repair and disassembly guides and support for dish washing appliances.

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One of the spray arms is not rotating

Hi,

On my whirlpool ADG 8516, one of both spray arms is not rotating. I did some online research and made sure the pump is ok, the arm is not clogged, etc… Also, i was surprised one arm was ok, while the other was not. So i disassembled the bottom arm (the not working one), and saw there was no water coming out of the tube it’s attached to. I took a picture and saw it was shut off by some sort of valve.

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I then disassembled the grey tubing and came to this point:

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I pushed a bit the round blue plastic piece with the holes around, put everything together again and checked the result. The result was the bottom arm rotating in contrary to the top arm. :-/

So problem not solved but ‘different’. I assume the issue is a broken motor which moves around the blue valve.

My question is: Why is that valve there, what is its purpose? When should it rotate? After a couple of washing cycles the top arm rotates again, but the bottom one is again no longer working. Is it a costly repair? Alternatively, can I get rid of the blue thing, or drill an extra hole in it, so water can get back in the bottom arm?

Thanks

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This may be one for @ladytech

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4 Answers

Most Helpful Answer

Andreas, don’t start drilling holes just yet. Does this model have a setting for wash “zones”? Some will have a setting for upper rack to be washed only. Some will go from one spray arm to another. Some models will have a sprayer that is connected to the back wall. It doesn’t rotate but has holes to spray plates from back to front. You might not have a problem at all. It might be the setting

If the lower spray arm turns when the top one doesn’t I’m inclined to believe it’s supposed to do that. The diverter is what moves that blue disk. It diverts water to different spray arms. The control board controls it depending on what cycle you’ve selected. If the spray arm works sometimes then it’s not broken. The owners manual will have the information on the cycle operation. I couldn’t find one in English.

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Andreas, the diverter motor is easy to replace. You will need to uninstall the dishwasher part way to lay d/w on its back. Underneath you’ll see he diverter. It’s kinda rectangles. Remove the 3 screws that hold it in place.and pull it out. A new seal should come with it. The real slides down on the shaft. I usually wet it so it slides into place. Secure with the screws. It only needs replaced if the shaft is worn and isn’t catching that blue disk to move it. I have replaced only the blue disc before if the shaft is fine and I’ve seen the disk damaged.

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Andreas, the diverter diverter the water to the different spray arms, lower middle, upper and rear, depending on the model. It’s pretty easy to replace if you slide out the dishwasher and lay it on its back. There’s 2 or 3 screws securing it. Disconnect the wire harness pull out and slide in the new one. There is a seal that should be replaced. The new one might come with a new seal. You can buy the seal from avxseals.com. This is the seal info:

Shaft Oil Seal TC5.5x16x8 Rubber Covered Double Lip w/Garter Spring ID 5.5mm OD 16mm 5.5x16x8 5.5 x 16 x 8 mm $5.99

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Cause 1

Circulation Pump

The circulation pump uses a motor and impeller to force water up through the wash arms. If the circulation pump is defective, the dishes won’t be cleaned properly. If the motor isn’t making any noise or is just making a humming sound after the dishwasher has filled, the motor may be burned out. First, ensure that power is getting to the motor. Second, to ensure that the impeller can turn, check the pump housing for debris. If power is getting to the motor and the pump is clear of debris, the motor might need to be replaced. Be aware that the circulation pump may be challenging to replace, although many do-it-yourselfers have been successful with the replacement.

Cause 2

Pump and Motor Assembly

The motor drives an impeller to force water up through the wash arms. If the motor is defective, the pump impeller is broken, or some part of the pump is clogged, dishes won’t be cleaned properly. Make sure that power is getting to the circulation pump and motor. If power is getting to the pump and motor assembly but it still won’t run, replace the pump and motor assembly.

Cause 3

Wash Impeller

The wash impeller is a small plastic blade that forces water up through the wash arms. If the impeller is broken or is missing some of its fins, it might not generate enough pressure to force the water up through the wash arms. On most models, you can replace the wash impeller independently of the pump and motor assembly. Search for your model number to determine if your impeller is replaceable. If the impeller cannot be replaced separately, you will have to replace the entire pump and motor assembly.



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Hi @mayer ,

Thanks for your response. About your suggestions, I saw them coming by numerous times on other posts and checked all of them.

1. Circulation pump: At least one arm is working, either the bottom one or the top one. So that’s not the issue.

2. Pump & motor: Same remark as 1. If the blue disc is rotated in the correct position, all is fine.

3. I did not see the wash impeller, but as everything is working fine when changing the blue disc’s position, it seems that is not the problem.

Thanks

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Hi @ladytech ,

Thanks for your response but my machine does not have those settings. I only have these:

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Any other reason why a program would make the disk shut the water running to the arms?

FYI, yesterday after making this post I got frustrated and managed to move the blue disk a bit left with a sharp object when having the bottom arm removed. This enabled both arms working again.

So the issues right now is I assume the blue disk moving “sometimes”, and not returning to the correct position when needed.

Thanks

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Andreas, the part that the spray arm attaches to, and is on top of the blow disc, should be removable. It should have a tab that you can lift up with your left hand while turning the part to the left with your right hand. Once removed, you can pull the blue disc up n off the diverter shaft. Examine the shaft and the disc for wear. The only component that moves the disc is the diverter. Also look underneath the d/w for any leaks. The diverter shaft has a seal that will become loose, especially if the diverter gears are worn. It’s an electrical and mechanical componan made of plastic. It’s easy to replace. It is remove from underneath the unit. Lije you said, sounds like the shaft isn’t turning the disc to its proper position. Without seeing the d/w I can only guess that the diverter is the problem. I see this often.

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Thanks for the help @ladytech , i'll check that. If it is the diverter that is malfunctioning, then i'm afraid I wont be able to replace that myself.

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I ended up removing the blue disk/valve/diverter. The machine seems to work fine again.

However it feels like appendicitis surgery, something was removed without knowing what its use is. I assume it rotates all the time during the wash cycle to target the water pumped trough the system on one arm at a time to maximize water pressure. I compared the holes in the disc to the location where the tubes to the spray arms are attached, and only one arm is connected to the pump at one time.

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As long as it’s working and cleaning the dishes properly then it won’t miss the appendicitis. LoL

I check the spay arms by letting the dishwasher wash a few minutes, then open the door and align both spray arms in the same direction then shut the door and when I hear the motor I open the door real quick to see if the arms have moved. You might get a little water spraying out so be careful not to slip on the floor. I’m glad you fixed it. Enjoy!

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Andreas will be eternally grateful.
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