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Released October 24, 2011 / 2.2, 2.4, or 2.5 GHz Quad-core Intel Core i7 Processor

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Black screen after capacitor replacement

Hi all.

The MBP 15” Late 2011 I’m dealing with shows a black display. The Apple logo is not lit and a flashlight behind it shows no picture.

Here’s the story. The machine had the usual problem and the owner already tried GPU reflowing and reballing. Finally, I replaced the failing tantalum capacitor (5 MBPs successfully repaired during last couple of weeks). This time the success is only partial. While the display looks dead, an external monitor shows everything like it should. The machine is working, it chimes, it boots, keyboard is lit. Mac Info on external monitor shows that both graphics cards are working.

SMC and PRAM reset didn’t solve the issue. Disconnected and cleaned display cable, still black screen. Fuse is ok as multimeter beeps in diode mode.

I already tried to de- and resolder both the capacitor and the displaced inductor: doesn’t seem to be a problem of my soldering skill.

Any help is appreciated and no, I’m not sending the MBP to any genius, assistance etc. I’ll prevail, or die in the attempt :D

Update (01/06/2019)

Here’s the pic I was talking about

Block Image

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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How a MacBook Pro owner that doesn’t own a highly specialized lab would have the abilities and tools to do the reballing of such a large chip as a GPU and would afterwords need another technician to replace a tantalum capacitor is beyond my understanding ... Would be nice to know more.

It would also be interesting to understand on which basis somebody would want to reflow/reball a faulty GPU on a 820-2915 when consensus of top reputed world labs regards this practice as a waste of time:

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I didn't do the reflow nor the reballing. Most evidently those who performed said operations are not aware of the "bad capacitor" issue.

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@mafomo There is no evidence there is a typical "bad capacitor" issue with 820-2915 boards either. It is mostly a short-lived side effect of the temperature applied to the board during the capacitor rework.

https://boards.rossmanngroup.com/forum/b...

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Sorry to contradict you, but there actually is evidence, and it affects (if I recall correctly) 2010 and 2011 macbooks pro. Check this out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzcgT_fi...

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@mafomo Don't worry, I wouldn't have any problem in being corrected if I was wrong, but this doesn't seem to be the case. Macbook Pros from 2010 and 2011 are different is specifications, 2010 are dual core i5 and i7 boards of the 820-2850 logic board series whereas 2011 and later are all quadcore i7 with 820-2914/15 boards. Needless to say they have different CPU/GPU and relevant architectures and problems.

While 2010 boards show graphic issues related to a faulty tantalum capacitor, 2011 boards and later do not, despite the fact they have a similar capacitor in a similar position.

Hope this helps you and your customers.

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@mafomo Thats the 2010 model not the 2011 which is a different design. The 2011 boards all suffer from solder rot as the solder that was used tends to breakdown from heat.

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Lets double check things shining a flashlight into the logo still doesn’t show the faint images of the desktop, is that correct?

If so then the LVDS connector on the logic board and the cable need to be inspected for damage. Not just the mating surfaces the solder joints as well.

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Yes, correct. I'll try again but I'm pretty sure no images can be seen.

I had a similar case a couple of days ago. Removed capacitor and inductor, cleaned the solder and found out I didn't scrape well enough so the new capacitor wasn't making good contact. Scraped better, resoldered, "and there was light". Maybe I'll repeat the process on this machine as well, but your hint about the LVDS connector makes a lot of sense. Will report back tomorrow.

On second thought... how could I have damaged LVDS connector and/or cable by replacing a capacitor on a pulled logic board? I mean, the display had life prior to my operation, it just couldn't boot. Now it boots but the display is dead... I'm missing something. Clearly.

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Re-do the LVDS connectors solder joints.

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@danj Ok, I brought the board to a friend of mines, he does professional repairing with microsoldering on iPhones. He re-did cap and inductor soldering, checked the LVDS connector and refreshed all its joints, checked again backlight fuse for continuity. Everything is ok, but the display is still black. Any more hints?

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Massimo Oriano will be eternally grateful.
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