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2.5 GHz dual-core Intel Core i5 processor (Turbo Boost up to 3.1 GHz) with 3 MB shared L3 cache.

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Mid 2012 Retina MBP soldering question

Hello all, I am experiencing the black screen issue on my mid 2012 Mac book pro retina.

I will attempt to replace the chip myself but am unsure what flux to use? I would use some 63/37 0.015 solder I think.

Any suggestions? Thank you!

Update (12/12/2018)

I have already done all software aspects of fixing it, verbose mode, safe mode, pram reset etc.

I called Apple and they walked me through the process of the hardware test, which checked out OK.

The senior supervisor said that I would need a new board, but I won’t spend $600+ to fix a 6 year old computer.

I then found out that this is quite a common problem and saw the recall by Apple (which ended) and found Lois Rossmann’s videos on youtube where he shows how to repair them.

He says what kind of solder he uses but not what type of flux. All he says its amtech brand and you can buy it on his website. They are out of stock for small quantities and even if they weren’t, shipping to Canada is crazy.

All I need to know is what type of flux to use for board repairs like this, as Im sure there are different types.

Here is one of his videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gH1gBRn...

Answer this question I have this problem too

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@sir_jimmy - You still haven't told us what your system

I'm aware of the U8900 Buck controller issues these systems can have. But, so far you haven't convinced me thats your issue as you haven't given us any idea what your problem is!

If you really want to fix your issue I would encourage you on giving us the details.

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I’m having trouble booting the machine. Often the screen won’t turn on, if it does, then it would randomly reboot to the black screen. I have tried the pram/nvram and smc reset. I ran the Fock-fy in verbose mode and found that the disk was unreadable. I erased the disk via thunderbolt mode and that made that errror go away but I still wasn’t able to boot. It also won’t boot from an external drive.

I called apple and spoke with a supervisor, he walked me through the hardware check, which turned out ok. He said the board needs to be replaced but I won’t spend $600+ To do That. I’m hoping that resoldering u8900 will fix it as I’ve tried all software aspects of fixing it but nothing helped.

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Well, I guess thats it then ;-} I wish you luck I pull them off and fully clean the pins and pads. I use a leaded solder as the tin solder they used what not very good. Here's a good reference on flux types Choosing a Flux – A Technical Article.

If you prefer a paste here's one MG Chemicals No Clean Flux Paste in Syringe while its more expensive when you're doing a lot of soldering it does make sense for smaller jobs.

I use a Low-Solids/No-Clean Fluxes (2%-8% solids content) OR## Here's the exact Flux Kester - #984 Flux and I use this for a dispenser Plato - 2 oz Flux Bottle - ESD Safe. I go through a pint bottle in about a year.

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@danj Ok. Thank you! I went ahead and ordered one of the syringes.

When I open the computer, how do I get rid of static electricity? Is it enough to always be "grounded" to the computer case?

Also, does anyone know how small the chip is? I have a HAKKO fx880 but im not sure if I have a small enough tip.

Im assuming the chip is on the back of the board because all the repair videos I saw had the board removed.

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You'll need to setup an ESD mat with a wrist strap. The mat has a grounding wire which needs to be tied to the electrical outlet ground (make sure the outlet is properly wired).

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Have you made sure the MacBook is actually turning on? Do you hear a chime?

Does it show a dim image with no backlight? You can check this by shining a flashlight behind the apple logo.

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Yes, there is a chime. I can’t see an image with a flashlight

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Before worrying about soldering and flux lets make sure you diagnose the issue down properly. I would hate for you to play ‘Wack a Mole’ replacing parts willy nilly.

Following a proper diagnostic process you should be able to isolate out what failed. Then worry about what is the repair correction. Lets work it out together!

What is your problem and what happened just before. Did you try running diagnostics? The more you tell us the better!

I tell you a secret! 50% of the problems I see don’t need any parts at all! 30% need a minor part (fuse, resistor, capacitor, etc…), ~10% need a major part (chip) and the last ~10% just wasn’t economical to fix.

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Sir jimmy will be eternally grateful.
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