Help! Stuck on step 27 of DC In board repair.

I am trying to free the logic board from the bottom casing on step 27 of the DC in board fixit guide. I have removed all the screws in the diagram and loosened the cables. I am trying to lift the left side of the board as per instructions, but it feels 'too secure' round about top left. It feels like there is a 'hidden' screw still holding the logic board down, I don't know.

I don't want to force the issue obviously. Any suggestions?

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Double check if all the screws have been removed and cables disconnected from their sockets. If there still resistance when trying to lift up the logic board it could be caused by the cooling paste applied on the processor and graphic chip and to the heatsink. When drying this past often act like glue so you must apply a little more force to separate the logic board from the heatsink. Use the flat side of a spundger and gently try to lift up the upper side of the logic board until it pop off before removing it.

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+ count your screws

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The Logic Board is pretty firmly set there. I'm afraid i'd break the pcb. I thought I'd just ask:"Is it a absolutely necessary to remove the logic board to get to the DC-in board on this model?" On later models according to comments left on the article, you can just attack the left side and get straight down to business.

I'll give your suggestions a try with some sleep and a fresh head.

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If you upload a couple of pictures, we might be able to spot the problem.

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There are 2 9mm screws on either side of the memory modules. Have you checked to see that you removed both of them? This looks like the most likely thing to have overlooked. This is shown in step 3 of your guide.

There are 4 screws on the back edge, which are removed at different steps of the guide. Have you removed all four of them ?

The only other thing that stands out is, the DC in connector itself, which should still be connected to the LB at step 27, the wires of this connector may be trapped under something, restricting the removal of the Logic Board

Tonka

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Holy carp. It popped off with a *horrible* pop. It was the Thermal Paste, or should I say, CEMENT! Mightily scary, I have to say.

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I recently worked on a PB alu 1.5 replacing the ac sound board and I had this problem with the logic board. The cooling paste applied was just like black glue and I had to force the board to separate it. Removing the old paste on processor and heatsink was also a hard job. Don't know what kind of cooling paste was used in this machine but it was not artic silver.

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marcus sg will be eternally grateful.
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