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Model A1502 / 2.6 GHz (Turbo Boost up to 3.1 GHz) or 2.8 GHz (Turbo Boost up to 3.3 GHz) dual-core Intel Core i7 processor with 4MB shared L3 cache.

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Keyboard Replacement - Trackpad and Heatsink Removal?

I'm going to replace the keyboard of an otherwise mostly unused Macbook Pro 13" mid-2014. It came from a family member who spilled whiskey on the kb. I've tested it out and everything looks fine. Mic, trackpad, battery, etc.

I'm looking at this hefty guide and I'm wondering if there's anything I can avoid since I'm just trying to get at the keyboard then put everything back. If you've replaced the keyboard on one of these I'd love to hear about your experience.

  • Do I need to fully remove the trackpad, or can I simply disconnect it and continue on?
  • Is it possible to leave the I/O, Heatsink, and Logic board in one piece? Probably not, but I thought I'd ask. It's all going right back into the machine.
  • Is it all right to reinstall the trackpad and batteries with the same old adhesive I just pried off?

I have the Electronic Toolkit and thermal paste, etc. I'm looking at ordering this item for the replacement.

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And you think that IFIXIT guide is hefty ;-} Thats only Part 1!

If you are going to go to the next step of taking the keyboard fully out to replace it alone Part 2 Vs just replacing the uppercase (the easier way). This model has screws and plastic rivets which are a pain to get out! Then you need to use screws in place of the rivets, if you use the wrong screws you’ll make push through marks as the aluminum is very thin at the bottom of the holes. Expect a few cut fingers ;-}

The answers to your bullets:

In any case you do need to pull the trackpad as you’ll need to swap it over to the new uppercase and if you are daring enough to pull the keyboard fully out you’ll want to do it to keep it safe as you’re going to get rough with the uppercase!

The I/O board is removable as well and the main logic board which you’ll need to again to transfer to the new case and if your going full tilt so you don’t damage these parts. The heatsink stays on.

I clean off the old adhesive and apply 3M pull tape so the next time its a lot easier! You can buy a roll of it from 3M adhesive tape division. Thats the industrial version of the tape used on the 3M hooks (great stuff!)

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2 Comments:

Sounds like you saved me some heartache (and some fingers)! I'll look into replacing the upper case instead of the KB alone. My trackpad is fine, so if I can find a trackpad-less uppercase that should do it. Good tip on the tape, too. Many thanks!

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I was spoiled! As for quite a few years I was able to send them out to be rebuilt back to China. We where doing 20 or so uppercases at a time twice to three times a year (unibody models mostly).

Now I'm doing them my self and they are a pain to do! I have a process worked out well now so I can do one it about three hours and maybe a bit more if I've got to pry-out a few more rivets than I normally have to. I even take the time to dress the screws so I don't make marks when I use them.

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Jeff Martell will be eternally grateful.
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