Model A1181: 1.83, 2, 2.1, 2.13, 2.16, 2.2, or 2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo processor

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Won't turn on. Led in power cable is a very faint green.

The laptop was fried via the audio inputs (I wasn't there when it happened so I don't know how that happened).

I've fixed a lot of electronics before so felt confident enough to replace the logic board. I purchased one and replaced it, but it still didn't boot. The power adapter works fine with another macbook. I also replaced the DC-in board. Tried resetting the PRAM. And bought a new battery.

Still no luck. I'm thinking of replacing the PRAM and the battery connector. What else could it be? It's almost a completely new computer in an old case.

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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I replaced the Battery Connector and the PRAM battery at the same time, and IT WORKS! I'm so happy to have my laptop back. Thank you so much for your help and advice.

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Bloody eBay sellers. Battery connector works but its got a shoddy reed switch. It worked well while it thought it was permanently open, but now it thinks its permanently closed.

You really do get what you pay for.

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Here is a link to Apples guide for when a computer won't start. Hope it helps.

http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1367

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I had used that guide before, but other than telling me to reset my PRAM, it doesn't offer much help.

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Try testing the AC adapter.

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The power adapter works fine with another macbook.

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OK, number one, we don't really know if the logic board was fried, we don't know if the new logic board is good or where it came from. Don't know about the DC in board. If everything was good it should work so I have to doubt that you actually got good working parts. It's time to take this baby to a pro who can test your parts. Any further parts replacement is a waste of time and effort. You have to know what is working and what is not and you need the tools to do that. Professionals do have their time and place and you need one now.

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Sound advice +

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I also had my doubts about the quality of the parts, and I agree that a professional would be able to diagnose the issue, much quicker than I could. However as I am strapped for cash, and don't know any electricians personally, I'm going to keep cracking at it myself.

As for the logic board, there are physical signs of damage, and a couple of fried diodes (as tested by multimeter). The seller of the replacement board assured me that the board was tested prior to dispatch. And it is a brand new genuine apple part.

The DC-in board however may have never needed replacing, and the replacement part could be defective for all I know. I replaced it first because of its proximity to the damage on the logic board, and the symptoms are conducive with a power issue. After replacing though, to have the exact same issue, leads me to believe that the DC-in board was not the issue. By deduction the only remaining parts that could be causing this issue are the battery connector and the PRAM battery.

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Sellers are notorious about saying their parts are good. I've been fooling about with a seller now for three weeks trying to get a good board and had to convince them that I knew more about it than they did before they would even consider a replacement. If you have access to another Book, the DC-IN port may be switchable. If not they can be had cheap with some searching. That failing, click on my icon, email me. Like I said, you need a pro and I'm the best one I know of.

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Joel will be eternally grateful.
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