Refresh of the original BlackBerry Bold. Known in some circles as the BlackBerry Bold 2.

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EMI/RF Shielding Removal for Blackberry 9700 Bold 2

I have a blackberry 9700 and the EMI shielding does not have clip on's.The EMI shield seems soldered to the PCB.

How else can I remove the shielding from the PCB?

Should I use a heat gun. I heard heat guns are bad for cell phone motherboards.I think they wear out the green covering which covers the copper wiring which it covers.

I'm still learning so make it easy for me to understand.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

I put a video up check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMgrUopj0...

Hey guys I put up another video much clearer than the one above. Check it out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlUV-DaUi...

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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Thank you for accepting my answer. Good video not as clear as could be. Try to put the board down and move your camera, may make it easier to see the parts of interest :-)

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It appears that the anchor clips are soldered to the PCB. I personally would use a soldering iron and a wick to remove the EMI shield but only because I think that I have better control of it. Heat guns are great for the right person. Here is a little bit of an introduction

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If you dont want to keep the sheild you can cut it off fairly easily with a pair of wire cutters - the sheild is very thin. There are two holes in the sheild and you can get the cutter to start there, then carefully snip your way round it to remove it. Be careful as you may delaminate the board if you apply too much pressure or twist too hard. A word of warning regarding heat, be careful as there is a battery on the board which you should remove if you decide to use heat. Also the CPU and FLASH device which are BGA type devices are actually bonded to the board with an epoxy of some sort.

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er.. BGA means solder so the epoxy would be the solder??

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Paul C, sure you are right, but one can also use a Dremel and/or tinsnips. I still opt for the removal wit a soldering iron and either a wick or "solder sucker" If done right the heat will be very local only and this should not affect the board.

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Thanks Paul C for the reply but you almost got me confused with the epoxy stuff, but pollytintop helped clarify things for me. I think I may go with old Turkey's advice that may be the best way because I want to keep the shielding intact.

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Sorry confusion, BGA devices are devices where the electrical contact is made via a grid of solder balls under the device. The epoxy I mentioned is a glue that the manufacturer is adding to prevent removal. Regarding the soldering iron approach, the cans are soldered down with a bead of solder around the edge, that edge connects to a ground plane on the top of the board which is covered with copper - common practice. Now the downside is that the heat is 'sucked' away from the can and dissapated into the copper plane making it very difficult to suck off the solder. I used a heat gun (made for the job) and had a hard time melting all the solder, you will need a VERY large bit and have to keep it moving to reduce localized heat. If you apply too much heat you will compromise the bonding of the copper to the top of the board and you can damage or 'peel' part of that ground plane away - this also happened to me in small areas. Anyway good luck, will be interested how you get on.

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The best way to do it is to preheat the PCB to 125C and then use a thermal tweezer like the TT-65 from PACE

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