Featuring a 14" screen and Windows 7 Professional 64, the ProBook 4440s can be identified by model number C6Z33UT.

14 Questions View all

DC power jack worn out

This computer no longer charges when I plug it in. I cleaned both the male and female plug contacts carefully, and for about a year, I could finesse the plug a little, then the charging indicator light would change from white to orange, and all was well, but even that doesn't work anymore. Recently I bought a new charger and plug harness. Using the new charger helped a little, but not enough. I think the port itself is worn out. What tools do I need besides an anti-static mat, and a star key wrench set to install the new plug and wire harness? Will the do-it-yourself videos on YouTube provide enough guidance to do this safely?

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

Is this a good question?

Score 0

Comments:

I bought an electronics repair kit from Walmart, and dug in. I've been keeping careful track of screw sets, as I remove them, but I'm having trouble "popping" the largest piece of plastic casing on the base. I have removed all the screws that are visible, and have tried using a jimmy to leverage it at the seam, but I'm making no progress. I have marked the screws that I removed for this step, in the linked photo. You may notice a few screws that are still in place, but I'm pretty sure they are holding down the circuitry beneath the casing, not the casing itself. I haven't been able to find a YouTube video for this exact model/replacement. Curious whether anyone has any observations about my process.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/g45xb2q4rkn937...

by

Add a comment
Spread Fixmas Cheer
Get $12 off your purchase of $50 or more with code FIXMAS12
Spread Fixmas Cheer
Get $12 off your purchase of $50 or more with code FIXMAS12

1 Answer

Chosen Solution

From a quick Google it looks like this should be fairly straightforward. Sometimes the problem is not actually with the socket itself but that a piece of plastic holding it in place is broken, so that when you push the power connector in it simply pushes the socket further into the case rather than fully engaging with it. In such cases you have to use a bit of ingenuity. Epoxy glue can come in handy.

As for tools you just need screwdrivers, but the iFixit jimmy is very helpful for releasing case clips. If the case resists then take to heart my motto: there's always one more screw!

Talking of screws, stick them to a piece of paper with blu-tac and write against each blob where they came from.

The iFixit spudger https://eustore.ifixit.com/en/Tools/Pryi... is also pretty useful for releasing ribbon cables from their sockets. Take care with these - if you break the release bar then you've pretty much had it.

Don't remove the heatsink unbless you absolutely have to as you'll then need to replace the heatsink paste, and if you don't apply it correctly your processor will overheat and shut down.

Was this answer helpful?

Score 1

Comments:

Thanks very much for your thorough answer, Philip Le Riche. I will likely give it a try, and post back here with the results. It's very tempting to pay a shop to do this sort of fix since so much disassembly is involved, but it is an older laptop, and I'm optimistic that all will go well as long as I take care of the ribbon cable sockets, and remember to check for every little screw when there seems to be too much resistance. I may also order the jimmy and spudger from iFixit before getting started, too. Thanks!

by

First of all, take out the RAM and WiFi card and put them somewhere safe. (If you're in a very dry climate store them in tinfoil or antistatic bags.)

There are 2 unlabelled holes in the bottom left and right hand corners. I'm sure you must have taken those out because you've got more screws than labelled holes. My guiding principle in these situations is: there's always one more screw! And it hasn't let me down yet. Sometimes it's hidden under a stick-on rubber foot, or else it's one you thought couldn't possibly need to be undone. Have you removed they keyboard and any screws under it? If you can pry the case apart at any point around the edge you can begin to see where that pesky screw must be hiding, and once you can widen the gap to a centimetre or so you can shine a light in and maybe see. But don't remove the screws holding the heat pipe to the processor chip.

This video seems to make it look quite straightforward: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTzbOjQI... (But I'm pretty sure he didn't need to remove the heat pipe to clean the fan or cooling vanes.)

by

Hi @chapinbk ,

Here is a link to the service manual which should be of some help to you as it details the necessary pre-requisite steps and then the procedures to remove all of the parts in the laptop

by

[Part 1 of 3]

Thanks again, Philip Le Riche, for your pointers, and thanks jayeff for a link to the manual - very helpful. I did finally succeed at making the repair. Turned out I had to pop the keyboard off, to reach a few pesky screws that were beneath it, but once I'd done that, most everything else came apart pretty easily. Unfortunately, the Probook is still exhibiting pretty much the same symptoms as it was before, which leads me to believe that my power issue has something to do with the battery instead, or maybe the locking feature, which I don't know very much about.

Original scenario (Phase I):

Plug in power cord. Multi-colored charging indicator light flashes white, instead of illuminating orange to indicate that battery is charging. After wiggling the plug around a little bit, indicator light eventually changes to orange, and computer resumes normal operation.

Totally inoperative (Phase II):

Plug in power cord. Multi-colored charging indicator light flashes white, and...

by

[Part 2 of 3]

...no amount of wiggling of the plug will trigger it to turn orange. While light is white instead of orange, computer will not start at all.

Post-repair (Phase III):

Plug in power cord. Multi-colored charging indicator light flashes white, and no amount of wiggling of the plug will trigger it to turn orange. Unlike in Phase II, eventually the indicator light stops flashing entirely, and goes dark. At this time, it's possible to start the computer as usual. However, now windows 10 no longer detects a battery at all, and it's clear that the Probook is operating from the DC current alone.

I apologize for the long, multi-part post, but iFixit did not allow more than 1024 characters. Any further thoughts about what may be going on here? I have already taken this opportunity to backup all the files that I had lost access to, so by now resurrecting this computer is more an exerise in stubbornness, and less about making it a primary machine, but still a fun thing to try to do.

by

Show 4 more comments

Add a comment

Add your answer

Chapin Klein will be eternally grateful.
View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 0

Past 7 Days: 9

Past 30 Days: 38

All Time: 547