Released October 24, 2011 / 2.2, 2.4, or 2.5 GHz Quad-core Intel Core i7 Processor

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MacBook won’t turn on

My Macbook 2011 i7, wont turn on when pressing the power button. There is no chime, fan or any indication its alive. Theres greenlight in the magsafe when plugged to machine but no orange. I’ve tried the ff, reset SMC, holding the power button for 10sec, unplugged the battery and pressed and hold the power button for 10sec, and press again, but no luck.

Ive tried to power it up also thru power pads direct in the logic board, but it ddnt light up. Im was thinking to replace the DC board but I want to learn first what is alternative to do. How would I know if the failure is on its battery, keyboard, ram or worse is on its logic board?

Btw, just a segway, I was having GPU failure before this problem, I was lucky to repaired it by reflawing and re-applying the thermal paste. I was able to power it up and loaded the screen successfully. But on the 2nd or 3rd try, it suddenly ddnt load up, and completely dead.

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Deck the Halls
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Sounds like when you did the reflow you over did the temp cooking a cap or something.

While the MagSafe cord LED is green we know the SMC circuit is working. You didn't comment of the built-in battery checker are LED's all lit? I'm suspecting they are.

Unless you have access to the schematics and know how to trace the logic out I think you'll need to throw the towel in. Sorry ;-{

If you know someone with the skills and tools they maybe able to fix your board.

Otherwise, its time for a new logic board. Here's one possible logic board: MacBook Pro 15" Unibody (Late 2011) 2.2 GHz Logic Board

MacBook Pro 15" Unibody (Late 2011) 2.2 GHz Logic Board Image

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I read advice online and theres a couple of things I need to try to ensure its the logic board that is faulty and not the other components and thats what I want to know.

If the magsafe turns green but the laptop fails to start, do you guys think it coulbd be the DC board? I disconnected the battery to the logic board and directly taking power from the outlet thru magsafe so if the DC board is faulty means it cannot transmit the power from outlet to the system?

I tried to bypass also the keyboard because I was thinking perhaps its the keyboard failure why its not turning on using the power button, so I powered up the macbook from its “power pad” in the logic board using metal flat screw while magsafe was plugged but it ddnt turn on, so does this mean that the logic board is dead?

I want to check these factors before jumping to costly remedy and buy a new logic board.

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The power pads removes the uppercase keyboard. As I stated if the battery checker LED's are green then the DC-In board has nothing to do with your problem as the batteries connection is via a different connection.

If you have a volt meter you could trace the circuit from the DC-In board to the logic board to prove this.

Alas, you have a messed up logic board.

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Thanks for a very clear and layman explanation. I will look for logic board but is it worth it? I mean given the costly price of the new logic board, would this give my laptop an almost-brand-new performance?

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"Would this give my laptop an almost-brand-new performance?"

mmm... I guess it depends on a few factors,

- Same version of logic board i.e. you have a 2.2 GHz and you replace it with the same or better.

- Your HD is in good shape and/or you upgrade it to a SSHD hybrid drive or SSD

- You put in the same amount of RAM back in or upgrade the amount i.e. 8 GB to 16 GB

Any improvement in these will get you a better system. In some ways better than the newer Retina class MacBook Pro's

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Did you buy the computer directly from Apple?, and how long has it been in your possession for?

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I bought my laptop from my friend not from Apple.

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watch Luis Rossman on YT - as he is Apple pro technician - as he says - ALL MacBook Pros 2011 15" WILL die soon or later as poor thermal design + to get worse those Radeons are tend to overheat.

All it is possible to do is just slow the process of dying like install app to speed up fans and apply the best thermal paste on CPU / GPU and not use MacBook for gaming nor anything what uses GPU.

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Bart, I think both you and Luis are a bit cynical here. All cars die to so don't buy a car is the same logic!

As repairmen we only see the failed systems and don't know the true numbers of systems sold so you can't determine if the failure rate is high, low or normal for a given system.

Now unlike most repairmen I serviced over 500 MacBook Pro's most being 2011 & 2012 (we have since migrated to HP just this fall). As I know the history of each one I can tell you more accurately what the failure issues are. As I know how many I have and the number that need attention gives me a bit more info to work off of. I can tell you the failure rate is no more or less than any other system as long as you don't abuse the system.

This is were people make the mistake! They think a laptop can do what a desktop or workstation can do for the given task. I know Apple does a great job telling people you can run photo & video editing software on these systems but not like how a Pro would running for hours at end.

In addition running online games is doable, but not the heavy graphical ones as they just need more CPU/GPU power than what your system is able to run (keeping cool). Keep in mind the time point these systems were designed mid 2010/11 what games and apps where people running then? That is what these systems where designed to run.

So the bottom line here is using your laptop as it was intended will make it last much longer! Just like you wouldn't try racing a Honda Prius in the Indi 500!

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