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Whirlpool Dishwasher stops after filling with water

My dishwasher stops running after it brings hot water in at the very beginning. Sometimes, it will start and stop various times (I suppose, continuing on through consecutive stages, but I can't be sure what it's actually doing because it rarely ends with clean dishes) across many hours. Other times, it never gets past this initial intro stage.

A few times in the past, I had success at cutting the power at the breaker, and then it tended to work perfectly for a handful of times afterwards before it would start acting up again. This last time I tried to cut breaker, however, was unsuccessful, and now it won't get past that first stage (which I always have to hit cancel to drain the water, which luckily still works every time). --Funny but not, I broke the breaker switch flipping it too many times, so I had to replace that today.--

By the way, it opens the soap tab after 5 or 10 minutes, even if it's not running/washing. So, some aspects of the "wash" cycle are working, I guess.

All panel lights are working and displaying on top.

Whirlpool Gold

Model: Wdt710paym

Only 3 years old.

Thanks for any help!

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Please give us your model number so we know what type of electronic controls it has.


Model was on there -- WDT710PAYM

Thank you.


Did you get an answer on this? Our brand new one is doing the same!


Same issue here with my Whirlpool W10435040C.

Any solution ?


Similar problem with Kitchen Aid KUDS35FXSS5. Wash cycle stops/starts and goes forever. Cancel-Drain process works fine.


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Don't go with the control board on this! It seems like that is what it should be, but in most cases - replacing the wash motor is actually the answer. Especially in the cases where the dishwasher fills, soap dispenser opens, etc...

For whatever reason - Whirlpool did not include any type of motor feedback circuit on these models. The motor has a weak/poor internal connection, and is not running when it is under a load(i.e. - full of water). Because there is no feedback circuit - the control board is still sending the voltage down, and 'thinks' that the wash motor is running. It will go through all of the other cycle functions normally, but you will obviously have dirty dishes at the end of the cycle. These cycles go for 3+ hours too -

The part that I am recommending in this case is called the 'Sump & Motor Assy'. You will also need a complete model number when you find this part! You are missing the final digit in the model number provided. Open the door and look inside at the edge of the tub on the right or left-hand side. The final digit will be a number - 0,1,2,3,4,5, or 6. These are all different versions of the same model, and the part number will vary, depending on the version. Hope this helps -

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Boyd, I am having a similar problem as them. I will start a load and it will fill with water. Water doesn't seem to heat up in the bottom. Washer never runs. After 1 hour (appx) it drains then adds more water. RUNS for about 5 minutes. Then drains and refills. Then it ran for another 10-15 minutes before I opened the door to see what was going on inside. The bottom was spinning. Could not tell if the top was spinning or not, it may have been (or the bottom spun it).

Here are my thoughts:

- is the heating element bad? After 5 minutes of water sitting in the bottom it wasn't hot to the touch

- does it need to sense hot water to start the wash cycle?

- if it doesn't start the wash cycle after (appx) 1 hour does it just move along to rinse (or start the wash)?

We haven't been using this for months but I am ready to get it fixed. Troubleshooting is always the hardest part.

Symptoms were: dishes not clean, long loads, soap residue on inside of front door.


Hi Dan -

Are there any flashing lights happening on the console after the wash cycle has "completed"? If this is the same/similar model, and the heat circuit is not functioning - you should see a light flashing several times in succession when the cycle is over. It may stop early in that case as well.

If the lower spray arm is turning, the wash motor is definitely running. There are a few possibilities depending on the scenario.

1. Does the drain go down through the floor or go over to attach to the sink? Floor drains are ALWAYS SUSPECT to siphon water out slowly = all of your symptoms. Way to test: Repeat this 2-3 times if necessary. Start cycle and let it fill. Open door. 'Cancel/Drain' - close the door. Let the drain pump run for 10-15 seconds at least. Open door. Watch the water level in tub for 5-10 min. Should not move.

2. Inlet water temp should be in the range of 90-120 degrees coming in.

3. Restricted water flow coming to the unit, or a faulty inlet valve.

4. Weak/faulty wash motor.


I own a KitchenAid KUDS02FRSS2 washer and this symptom just happened last night. We found the clean tablet was out in the washer but the dishes didn't clean. I didn't realize something very wrong with the machine until I try to wash the dirty dishes again. The machines just stopped about 30 sec after the water was filled. I tried to hold the cancel bottom and drain the water. After the water drained I try to wash again and the machine just ran a little bit longer before it stopped again. Do you think this is the sump & motor assembly problem. Just want to make sure before I order the part and repair it. The machine is about 10 years old. It's noisy and takes long time for a standard circle, but it worked O.K.


Update to my previous post.

Now the water filled and heated and the tablet was popped. The machine still stopped after that. The "Start/Resume" light is on and solid. I found that the dishes were still dry but warm.


When I was checking for the part on whirlpool; kitchen aid and frigidaire also came up. I would assume it’s probably the same issue - if in fact the dish washer “acts” like it’s running the cycle and completes the cycle but the dishes are still dirty. I also opened the door about 1/2 hr into the cycle to see that there was warm water in the tub with humidity but nothing was spraying or splashing.

Granted your dishwasher is 10 years old so depending on how much you want to sink into for repairs, you may be better off just getting a new one for around $400. I took a gamble and ripped mine apart with a YouTube video (I also cleaned the sensors) and the material was only $120. Kinda up to you what your next steps are and how much patience you have with assembly. Best of luck and report back with what you decided to do. It always helps he next person searching :)


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This was exactly the problem with our Whirlpool dishwasher. I bought the sump and assy from sears parts website and boom it works again. Same issue where it would load with water and just sit for hours sometimes before it would drain but it never would run the cycle in between with the sprayer(s). Didn’t matter what cycle I placed. I tried unplugging it, plugging it back in and no dice. So thanks for the answe cause a $750 dishwasher we bought and I replaced the piece at $120 instead of buying another dishwasher!

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I have a kitchenaid dishwasher and was working fine except the door kept pooping open so I replaced the latch and now the door shuts really tight as how it should be except now the water fills the tub but does not run. what could be wrong?


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radicalng8 will be eternally grateful.
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