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The wi-fi only version of Apple's iPad Air, model number A1474. Available in Space Gray or Silver, it packs the custom A7 processor and ships in 16, 32, 64, and 128 GB configurations.

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Power button & cameras not working at all after screen and case change

My ipad air 1st gen got smashed up - rear case distorted and LCD and digitiser shashed.

I followed the guide and managed to strip it down, bought a new rear case and re-assembled it. All looked good. Made sound when plugged power in and could see it on the network so I went to the next stage and bought a new LCD and digitiser. After first getting a duff LCD, I bought a second hand genuine one and all worked fine, as does the digitiser. However, the power button does not work, although the volume and mute switch both work fine. Power button does nothing at all - even with long hold, which is different to problem which I have read others have had where sleep function doesnt work both other power functions do. Also, neither of the cameras seem to work. Any suggestions.

as part of the case change, I did remove and stick back in as best i could the line of magnets along oppose sides of the case, although I cannot guarantee the spacing is exactly as it was on the original. Dont think that could make a difference but mention it just in case

Update (10/26/2017)

All the other buttons on the power flex work - volume up and down and mute switch, and I have read that the power button circuit is linked to the home button circuit?

Equally, the light sensor which is on the same flex as the front camera works.

At present I havent fixed the LCD or digitiser in place - just connected them up and have them "floating". could that be causing the issue.

I will re-check the connections etc but I am sure they are in OK, and the main board looks absolutely fine. The case had creased a bit but the board had just lifted off the case and there is no signed of cracks etc

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My main concern here is how damaged the original housing was. The logic board is secured to the housing so any bends or damage to the housing get transferred over to the logic board. Your problems may also just be related to improper connections so I would start by pouring over the various guides if you haven't already done so.

Then you could inspect the condition of the various camera and button flexes to see if any of them received any damage from the bend or transfer and replace as necessary. If everything looks good, then you could try to order some replacement cameras and see if they work. It's not a perfect test because small parts are well known for poor quality so you could always have a dud. I would also inspect the logic board for signs of damage, such as missing parts, partially dislodged parts etc.

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John Tipper will be eternally grateful.
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