The LN46A530 has a 46" display, combined with SRS TruSurround XT. The PC input allows this display to double as a 46" computer monitor

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Strange Startup Issues, not capacitors, video and pics included.

Hey all,

I am starting a new thread now that I have finally compiled more information and can provide you all with photos and video.

Here is video of the issue:

On startup, especially when the tv is cold (not recently used). It will take multiple times to get started. Usually I cannot stop this process. I cannot turn it off or stop it when this process is going on. It will try to startup, not work, turn itself off, restart and try again. Problems that arise range from no picture (all black screen), to loud screeching static, multicolored lines on the picture, picture just looking "off". After anywhere from 2-5 minutes of this and it will just startup and work correctly one of the times.

I previously have changed out the capacitors about 9 months to 1 year ago, because of the tv having trouble starting up, but these symptoms are different. I have opened it up and checked the capacitors and they appear to be ok.

At this point, I am at a loss. I would love to figure this out, so I am looking for help and guidance.

I read a comment once about checking the 3.2V regulators, and I am not sure what those are, or how to check. So I have not done that yet.

Photographs of the back of the TV are on Photobucket.

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To clarify, no recent fall damage, dropping or inclement weather/moisture exposure. Just normal use. This problem started off slowly with occasional issues and only taking one time to startup, and now it takes up to 5 minutes to startup.

Answer this question I have this problem too

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@paintufast the solarized look of the panel as well as the audio disturbance suggest that this is a Main Board issue. If you have the schematic you can check the connectors but ultimately I'd go for a replacement

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@oldturkey03 is there a good source you know of for ordering replacement boards?

Thanks for your help I appreciate it.


@paintufast most places are really good about selling those boards. I deal with one specific vendor but I am hesitant to post this since it will not be very objective. Hate to get myself into a Spam situation since I would publicly endorse vendors. The only exception I make is with parts from iFixit.


Well I tore into her again and made some more progress. I believe it is the main board, based on the fact that I am getting the correct standby voltage from the power supply. All of the caps still look good.

I found a DIY that indicated that the issue is 3 small chips on the main board. I decided to try to take them off myself before ordering. They're surface mount chips. I have a regular old soldering iron and it was far from easy to do with the tools I have. I got one chip off, then working on the next I got it off but I damaged the board some and don't think it will work now.

I started looking online and it seems no one has these boards in stock. Would you mind PM-ing me any suggestions on where to look. I need a BN97-01985P. I am googling all over, so far no luck. Thanks regardless, I have learned a lot during this process...even if the poor limping TV is finally dead...


@paintufast thos seem to run scarce. I'd contact places like this and see if they have it or can get it. They do have good customer service and will help.


Okay perhaps this will help search Samsung BN94-01628P . This should be a working alternative according to your original main board number. $82

I couldn't correctly display your video link but my suggestion is when you have actual visible display issues; always try and insure firmware is up to date first which the upgrade will force full (Factory reset). In this situation main board has two processors it seems according to update procedure but following guide on Samsung site it is specifically a two step firmware upgrade procedure for this specific model! You can also check firmware ----> selecting; menu , setting, sw upgrade(highlighted),hit info key! This will give you current firmware which is upgraded pt1 - 1007, pt2 -1008.


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I would check solder joints at top end of power supply, and or test caps at CM876, CM 881! Caps don't necessarily need to be bulged to prove failed. The result I had was relay clicking about ever 10 seconds power cycling repeatedly no startup. These should be 820uf/25v. I also found a bad cap at at CM872 - 470uf/25v. If you get power on then you should be able to check voltages to main board! If it is staying on insure you have good solder joints on transformers supplying back light power. Poor display with power on most likely main board but if you can get any display first perform full reset then upgrade firmware. With this firmware make sure you follow steps correctly since this firmware upgrade is a two part upgrade.

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Pete Richison will be eternally grateful.
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