First generation Apple iPad with Wi-Fi, available with 16, 32, or 64 GB. Model Number A1219. Repairs are straightforward and do not require heat.

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lcd flickering after dropping the ipad


I received an iPad 1 model that was damaged from being dropped.

Glass/digitizer broken as result.

Even when charged and trying to boot with the power button, no empty battery icon, no iTunes repair icon, no apple icon, nothing shown.

Connecting to the computer with USB cable also not being detected.

Home + power button also no result.

I decided to open the iPad and when the tablet is connected to a power source, the LCD is flickering in the bottom right corner, keeps doing that until I remove the power source. I searched for error codes or blinks but nothing so far.

To be clear: I don't see the flickering on the lcd, but rather coming from inside the lcd frame.

Anybody got an idea or experience with this issue?

Already tried to replace the LCD but same result.

Currently the digitizer/glass is removed/disconnected cause I think even without it, it should atleast give something of a image on the lcd, correct?

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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You don't need to have the digitizer connected, the iPad will still work. I would also disconnect the LCD and then connect the iPad to an iTunes enabled computer to see if it is recognized. If it's not recognized, then you have a logic board issue and that will require a micro-soldering repair.

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Ok will try that tonight. And what if I change the logic board? Any loss of data?


Everything you care about is on the logic board. If you change it, then you have, for all intents and purposes, a new iPad.


iPad is not being detected by iTunes without lcd. I guess it's the logic board/needs micro-soldering. Are you able to help?

Or if I change this part, it should also be fixed?



Yeah, I think so.


Tom, IMHO, the original iPad is not really worth putting a lot of money into. For the price of spare parts or a micro-soldering repair, you can probably buy a pre-owned iPad 3/4 or maybe even better.

If the data is critical and you need to get it out, then the micro-soldering avenue may be worthwhile. If you have specific questions, just ask away. If you want it repaired, then search for a micro-soldering repair shop in your area or look for those that accept mail-in repairs. You can take a look at my profile.


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