New LG refrigerator and it has stopped cooling after hurrican
Hurricane Irma passed and my new LG refrigerator has stopped cooling. What could be the problem?
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The first thing I would do is look around the neighborhood tonight and see if there are any lights on.
Did it get knocked over or flooded out or receive an electrical surge.
Cause 1
Condenser Coils are Dirty
The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat as refrigerant passes through them. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t dissipate the heat effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the refrigerator becomes less efficient, causing the refrigerator to work harder to cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will not be able to maintain the proper temperature. Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty—if the condenser coils are dirty, clean them.
Cause 2
Condenser Fan Motor
The condenser fan motor draws air though the condenser coils and over the compressor. If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, the refrigerator won’t cool properly. To determine if the fan motor is defective, first check the fan blade for obstructions. Next, try turning the fan motor blade by hand. If the blade does not spin freely, replace the condenser fan motor. If no obstructions are present and the fan blade spins freely, use a multimeter to test the fan motor for continuity. If the condenser fan motor does not have continuity, replace it.
Cause 3
Evaporator Fan Motor
The evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator (cooling) coils and circulates it throughout the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Some refrigerators have more than one evaporator fan motor. On refrigerators with only one evaporator, the evaporator is located in the freezer compartment. If the evaporator fan is not working, it will not circulate the cold air to the refrigerator compartment. If this occurs, the freezer may still get cold, while the refrigerator will not get cold. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.
If none of that works, you can find a few more solutions to try on the LG refrigerator not cooling wiki.
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very useful~
The evaporator fan ran at the test (force)mode, but not in normal operating mode.
Could it be the problem with the control board? If the control board is good, what will be other reasons to check? Thanks.
Mine started doing the same yesterday. In test mode the fans work fine but nothing in normal operation mode. It will be 2 weeks before the repair tech can get here.
@Rob Phillips
What is the model number of the refrigerator?
If the compressor is operating in normal mode then usually the evaporator fan is also operating.
It may be that it works in test mode because only the fan is being tested but in normal mode the control turns the fan on and off dependent on the information received from the sensors in whatever compartment so perhaps the sensor (faulty?) is telling the control board that it is cool enough so turn off the fan. Just my thinking on this.
Same with Wynn; The evaporator fan ran at the test mode, but does not run normal operation.
Any ideas.
Thanks.
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If you open the door and the lights don't come on you need to check voltage and polarity at your power source.
If you have lights the display should also be lite. Adjust your temperatures to 0*f in freezer and 36*f in fresh food.
Some LGs have to be turned on after a power failure. Usually the sequence of buttons to push at the same time is on the display or in the owners manual.
Next, pull out unit and remove the back access panel carefully. Is the fan next to the compressor running? If not, remove the access panel above the compressor. 3 screws hold it in place. BE CAREFUL this is the main control board and at some connections there is 300 + volts. You want to look for a blinking light. Count the number of blinks.
If no blinking light, unplug the refrigerator.
There is 1 sometimes 2 fuses located on the board. Check with a meter for ohms/resistance. You can gently pull the fuses out. They are about an inch long, round glass fuse. You can visually look for the broken wire too if you don't have a meter. The fuses have their size on them. Most hardware stores carry them.
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Sean, have you noticed any oil on or near the compressor or condenser coils? The coils sit in the drain pan n sometimes erode n leak. If you see oil you won’t need to do the PCB tests. With unit off, remove the panel to the main board/PCB above the compressor.There is a square test button on the board. It is black n looks different than everything else. Look for con201. This connection will have these words by it CAPACITOR COM. POWER. It might be located middle bottom. I might be wrong on the “con201” so look for the words. Pull the connector off. Plug unit in push the test button 1 time you’ll hear a beep. With meter set for at least 200vAC put 1 lead on capacitor prong on board-far left. The other lead on POWER prong -far right. This should be done within 30 secs. If you need to start over just unplug unit wait a minute the start again You should have 200vAC +- Does the led on PCB blink? If so how many times? Your done. Unplug unit, put the connector back on PCB. Let me know what you found.
Lady Tech,
Hoping I'm not too late
from above:
Lloyd, if it was a snake I’d be bitten. 3 blinks = check the compressor.
Could you do the same test on con201 except check voltage on the far right pin and the pin to the left of it? Uplug refrigerator, plug back in and with con201 already disconnected, press test button 1x then check the 2 right pins on the board for 200v within 30 sec. let me know what you find, please.
July 17 by LadyTech
I am having this problem and could not find LLoyds answer. On the 2 right pins at the con 201 I am getting 60 to 80v. Do I need to replace the control board?
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Brndn2263-did you notice if the coils by the fan were dirty? Dirty coils restrict air flow. Compressor gets hot and nothing works right. I’d suggest to unplug it, let compressor cool then clean the couls good with a vacuum or coil brush. Clean from back and the front. Plug it in and hope it cools. It can take up to 48 hrs for the refer to reach temperature. Putting water, sodas etc in it will help it get cold faster. Bowls of water in freezer help n when they freeze you can put everything back in. The ice maker will take 2-3 days before it drops ice. Lg has a 7-10 yr”parts only”’warranty on the sealed system. If it doesn’t cool after 48 hrs and the compressor gets hot again, I’d have to say the problem is in the sealed system. A refrigerant leak and/or a restriction in the systems can cause the compressor to get hot. Dirty coils can cause a leak and a restriction. Very important to clean coils 1x a yr. more if you have pets.
I wouldn’t mention you cleaned the coils. The tech might think you cleaned them cuz you knew they were coming. Dirty coils voids any warranty. The manufacturers consider it abuse. LG should have plenty of Certified technicians in the DFW area. Unfortunately, I’m an 8 hr drive from Dallas. If you don’t mind posting the outcome, I’d appreciate it. Take care
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I had my fridge reset 5 times the compressor is good the fans are good no dirt on the coils fan is spinning and every time I do a test the fan in the fridge turns on but shuts off after test
13 Comments
I have the same problem, except now it's now freezing
by cherylnslate
it's not freezing
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by Susanne B
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