The Kenmore Elite HE3 is a washing machine by Kenmore.

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Why is the "F dl" light come on

This has really been a struggle, the "F dl" light comes on and we are stuck and can't get the door open or continue on with the wash, it also beeps as it stops.

Please help.

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replaced the door lock switch twice on mine. Error would go away for a bit, reoccur, go away... Happened again now. Took off the lid, pressed the 2 wire connector (FL something) on the right side of the brain box - the door locked and started right up.

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These are the errors for error code

F/dL Door Lock Error

Condition

A Door Lock Error occurs if the door cannot be unlocked. It will try to lock it 6 times before displaying the error.

check or repair the following

Door Lock Mechanism broken or removed from the Door

Check Door Lock/Switch Assembly

Check the wire harness connections to the Door Lock/Switch Assembly and Central Control Unit (CCU)

Door Lock/Switch Assembly Failure

http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/... and http://www.thathomesite.com/forums/load/... have more on this. Here is a way to gain access to your washer if the door is locked shut.

1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with some small blocks of wood, this will make access to the screws much easier.

2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose.

3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located.

4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.

Sometimes these doors will not unlock for whatever reason. If there are no error codes being generated, this could have just been a momentary glitch. If you see "Fdl" or "Fdu" error codes, these are usually indications of a failed door latch assembly and will require replacement. You can also try to reset the CCU by unplugging the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes. Hope that helps.

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Thanks.....your information was helpful and saved me $ on a service call. Found about 5 small nails and a penny in the filter. Pulled the manual tab and opened the door. Washer locked and works great!

Thanks again

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FdL code would not reset until I turned washer on to start load. Once I did that the Fdl code resolved. Took top off, removed & replaced wires, took door lock off & cleaned it - nothing worked until I simply started a load. Washer then locked door, and all worked fine afterwards.

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I get this error BEFORE the door locks. I have already replaced the door lock mechanism myself. It will usually start after several tries, but I have been trying for 1 1/2 days now. How do I clear that error?

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kakrasky66: If it's not the Door Lock then it the CCU unit. On Amazon I was able to get the CCU (Kenmore CCU Central Control Unit 8182689) Refurbished for only $97.00. Warning do not get the New model from Kenmore as it has the same issue. Vendor "PartSimple" refurbishes the CCU to ensure that the unit will last longer (Relay swap, contact cleaning etc...)

I spent the whole Spring and Summer with a working washer after spending last winter with one that was sporadic.

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kakrasky66: I had the same problem and it was connections to the CCU. Be forewarned: the connectors are cheap and break and there's no gold plating on the board fingers meaning the connections can get dirty. I disconnected & reconnected the wires to the CCU and then used hot-melt glue to hold the connectors in place.

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Suddenly, my Kenmore Elite h3 washer door would not lock. I could hear a clicking noise in the back but no loud latching noise from the door. After a few clicks, the beeper would sound and the panel would flash "DL" and "F". After reading a few blogs I determined I had a door latch problem. I unplugged the washer and turned off the water. I tightened the screws for the latch in the door using a torx screw bit. I removed the front bottom panel (3 torx screws bottom of panel). Reached inside and pulled the emergency release (You can see it using a flashlight) several times. I then removed the top panel (3 hex screws in the back) and unplugged the 2 pink wireing harness from the panel in the back and plugged them back in (the pink wires go to the door latch). I also reached in and jiggled the wiring harness to door latch. Plugged the washer back, turned the water on, put a load of clothes and the door latch locked with it's usual loud noise and the washer started working!! I am going to buy a replacement door latch swithch. I found several on ebay for about 40 bucks.

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Thank you Technogram! This is the exact problem I was having and now I can fix it myself. Thanks!

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Thanks Technogram!

Your solution worked great for us, and the washer is working well now.

Thanks again.

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Thank you so much for your helpful instructions! You just helped us open our washer and get it started again. A locked washer with an error code and filled with wet laundry was the last thing I needed on this Sunday morning. You Rock!

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Thank you, thank you! I released the manual switch and started the wash cycle over. Seems to be working fine now! You saved a very tired mommoy of three tonight! :)

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Thank YOU!

my machine has done this since 6mo old and I stopped using it... Sears comes out and claims it is fine no problem... the next time I use it... it stops door stuck... clothes ruined again... unplugging worked for a couple months and this last time I had to take the panel off after trying for two weeks to free my clothes as they were held hostage by HE 3 washer...

TIP... you need a Torx head screw driver to remove the screws...

Next I hope to fix it myslef... in appreciation ... dawn, January 18, 2013

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Yay! My washer is running again. We checked the door lock and it didn't appear to have any problems so we took off the top and plugged the wires like mentioned, waiting ten seconds and reattached them... and it works!!! Why? I don't know. I guess it's the computer stuff! Who can even understand computers?? Anyway, I am so happy to hear my washer going... and I am leaving my top ready to remove until I am sure it's going to run completely and repeatedly! I don't think I need to order a new door lock...

Connie Marie

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Thank you! Just stuck a screwdriver into the latch, wiggled it around a bit, shut the door and it worked! Too easy... will probably blow up shortly...

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-same thing... mine would not lock, error 'DL'... i replaced the door latch mechanism, which did not solve the problem. -i removed the three torx screws from the top-back of the unit, lifted the back cover up gently an inch, and slid the top of the washer away from me, removed top. -then i just reseated the pink wire connector (i reseated them all). -problem solved, for now. -must be a poor connection (vibration?). -cost me $73 for the latch i didn't need, hope i save you $.

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Thank you! Your trick worked! Unbelievable! I finally started washing again after almost 2 weeks of trying to solve the problem. Awesome!!!

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Well!!!

Our Kenmore Elite aka Whirlpool HT4 had similar naughty behaviour !

The door lock had a continuity imbalance in the door lock solenoid coils (cannot get separately ).

So:

1. New whirlpool lock installed.

2. Still behaved naughty with the dL code.

3. Took to off and followed above!

All is happy but after 11 hard years I would suggesting taking the top off every year at this age and press in gently the wire couplings to the computer! This vibration oriented problem at least partially!

By the way thinking back this design of electrical couplings / mounting system of electrical components is very similar to my former 74 450 Mercedes Sports car which in the end needed a rewiring with an American universal wiring harness! Too much vibration over the years!

Thanks for this, here in Canada the lock is $140 including a myriad of taxes but very prompt delivery as we are 400 miles in a rural area!

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I think I found the issue with the latch switch... it is a passive switch, and therefore can fail to close the electrical loop if corrosion or wear begins to take hold... I used an old gearhead trick and put some WD40 into the switch from the outside, soaking it. That enabled the oil to impregnate the switch and come in contact with the contacts that close the electrical loop. I verified this by using a multimeter to analyze the before and after ohm reading. Before, there was no ohms read, 0. After, infinite, or closed. So, the switch appears to be at fault here for some instances. The connector is rather flimsy as well, and a dose of WD40 on those contacts should keep that from misbehaving in the future as well. But in my situation, the switch was the culprit and now is working again as it did when it was new. Hope this helps, and should be a cheap fix for some.

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By latch switch, you mean the actual point where the door and the lock meet?

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i had a problem and being in the service industry i read all this stuff had to be replaced (CPU, WIRING HARNESS DOOR SWITCH MECHANISM) but i notice after taking off the top of washer if i pushed in one wire at a time while the machine was clicking and noticed the same wire was correcting the machine. What i did was take off the wire ( unplug the washer) and separate the prongs on the CPU to get a tight connection. Been working for the last two months and i believe over a period of time these just wear because of the speed of the washer. No need to replace all this stuff, i didnt replace anything on mine.

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Thank you! Thank you!!! We had already been to the Sears store and picked out a new washer when I found this forum, but thankfully had not purchased it yet.

Our washer is 11 years old and suddenly died. I did manage to finally get the door open and the water bailed.

Not that I wouldn't have liked a new washer, but my husband JUST retired and it was going to be over $1000. I had already watched a youtube video on reseating the connectors. All we did was take the top off (after turning off the water and disconnecting the power) and reseat the three sets of DL plugs and started a load and instead of the weird clicking sounds it is working perfectly.

Wow! I cannot thank those who contributed to this forum enough.

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I have a Kenmore H3 washer that was having intermittent door lock errors. I found this board postings very helpful. I first replaced the door switch. That seemed to help but it did not completely solve my problem.

After reading the suggestions on this site I removed the washer top by unscrewing the 3 screws on the back of the unit (torx screws). I checked the (pink) wire connectors to the control unit at the top back of the unit. Several seemed loose and one in particular definitely audibly "clicked" as it was reseated. After this the washer works fine.

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Hi I have a HE3 Kenmore Elite and it makes a continuos clicking noise when I close and try to start a new load. The door opens and closes easily just a loud clicking noise and not able to start a new load. Any suggestions?

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So I got the f dU error after a load of wash had finished on my Kenmore Elite HE 4. Tried the unplugging operation with wait, no relief. Door also wouldn't open.

Found this post segment after a search.

Unplugged the washer, turned off the water, then opened the bottom panel. Found the service documentation and after snaking my arm up the right side of the washer to find the manual pull handle to unlock the door, opened it to find my damp, but clean wash. Moved the wash to the dryer and opened the top of the unit, then checked the seating of all of the wire harness connectors on the CCU, those were OK. Looked down the right side to the door lock mechanism and noticed that one wire harness (the thin black wire connector above the pink wire connector harness), looked loose. Pushed that in, checked the others, then plugged the unit back in, and turned on the water.

Ran a spin drain cycle and the unit locked, operating normally.

My take:

1.) On error f dl or f dU, disconnect power

2.) Open the top panel and first check that all connections and harnesses are connected on the door lock mechanism down the right side of the washer

3.) Next check all other harnesses for proper seating and connection

4.) If all looks, feels OK, plug back in

5.) If the door lock works, it was connectors

6.) Otherwise, look into troubleshooting further operations using the service manual.

I wouldn't buy an new door lock unless it was clear that the door lock unit was a real problem (e.g. repeat offender). If wire harness connectors are broken, then that's another thing to replace, since the vibration and movement of the washer can loosen those connectors.

My Kenmore Elite HE 4 Washer and Dryer were bought in 2004 and I'm still running them now in 2017 after this.

This post really saved me some grief with a service call or worse, pre-emptive replacement of the washer.

Thanks to all who posted and contributed.

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I had a drainage problem originally with tons of crud in the hoses. After I cleaned out everything and put it back together, I got the Fdl code. I tried everything mentioned above-unplugged it, manual latch, wiggling wires, and nothing seemed to work. I squirted a little WD40 into the latch, but still nothing. I then started a cycle with the door open, then closed it. I then started a normal cycle and the door locked! So I'm not sure what exactly fixed it. I think it was the wires or a computer glitch. Anyway, works so far. Thanks for all the help above.

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I have an answer...before doing any removing of the washer, I left the door closed (usually it is open after a wash to air-dry) and started the washer up to an hour later and it reset itself. The key here is to keep the door shut so it resets the lock. Make sure the load of clothes is inside with detergent (if not in the drawer) and press start buttons half an hour to an hour later. I had the clothes and detergent ready to go for an hour with the door shut...it worked!

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Has anyone told Whirlpool they manufactured a piece of junk?

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This board saved me money. I tried several of the above suggestions. I had the error code fdl and I remembers seeing f11 at some point in the last month. I ran a diagnosis which you can find how to do in the manual when you detach the bottom front panel it is lcoated in a pocket on the side of the machine. I proceeded to check the connectors on the cpu and clean them with air then make sure I reconnected very tightly. I also check the connectors on the door latch it self and made sure they were tight as well. I ran the diagnostic again and everything now works. I made sure to make the machine level so that it will not happen as quickly next time.

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My washer just clicked but the door would not lock. I replaced the door switch with a used one from eBay it lasted a month and started clicking again, I bought a new one on Amazon and installed it and still only clicking. I read this post and unplugged the pink wire harnesses and put a little WD40 on them and plugged them back in in about two minutes total. The washer started working perfect. Now all three of my lock switches work, the original one and the used one and the new one. I should have checked the wires first. My wife was so mad that she wanted me to go out and buy a new washer, Thanks for the post.

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You can call me crazy but I had the Same problem. but I put off having to pull and put back the plugs up top for several months by walking around to the side of the washer where the door lock is, raising that side of the washer about 3 to 5 inches off the floor and dropping it - right after I hit the start button, (if the door doesn't lock right away). My washer will start just fine 2 out of 3 times. but dropping the washer will get it going on that third time.

tonight that didn't help so I came to this forum looking for help and suggestions. I did everything that everyone here did and now my washer is working again. thank you so much!

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Brian will be eternally grateful.
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