Why did my grundig griller kept on tripping the circuit breaker?

My grundig grill kept on tripping the circuit breaker after reaching certain temperature. It works okay when I turned it on from cool temp but just unable to reach certain temperature. I have already tried taking out all the appliances from the same circuit but it still doesnt work.

Its a 220-240V-50Hz, 1680-2000W, lot number S004

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just provided more info by editing my post. physically the grill looks good. nothing wrong with the power cable, knob, switches or the hotplate.


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Hi Melvin,

If you have a DMM (Digital MultiMeter) or access to one, you could use its' Ohmmeter function and do some static tests (tests without power connected) which may give a clue as to what is going on.

Also is the circuit breaker that keeps tripping a current protection switch or safety switch (I don't know what they are called where you are, I know them as an RCD (residual current device - detects current flow from active to ground) or just a normal circuit breaker?

The following tests are indicative only as I do not have access to the actual electrical circuit diagram for the Griller.

1. With the griller disconnected from the power outlet, connect the Ohmmeter's test leads across the active (line) and neutral pins of the griller's power cord plug, switch on the griller's On/Off switch and turn the temperature control to maximum. Take note of the resistance reading on the Ohmmeter.

2. Next place the Ohmmeter test leads between the active pin of the power plug and a suitable shiny metal contact point on the griller body and measure the resistance. Leave the griller power switch On and the temperature setting at maximum when you do this. Increase the Ohmmeter scale to maximum if you get no readings on the lower scales. Hopefully you will get a reading in the several Meg Ohms, if any reading at all. If not sure of which is the active and the neutral pin, do measurements from both.

Disconnect the meter from the griller and switch the griller off.

Now plug in the griller back into the power outlet and switch it on, set it to maximum temperature and wait for it to trip the breaker.

Once it has tripped the breaker, remove the power cord from the power outlet and perform the same tests as above using the Ohmmeter.

Be careful when you test between the active and the body of the griller it may be warm to hot.

My thinking on this is that either the temperature control switch circuitry might be faulty on the maximum setting OR that due to the heat there may be some sort of expansion going on in the griller which is causing something to short out to the body of the griller (which should be earthed - has it got a 3 pin power plug or only 2? - if only 2 it means that it is double insulated which could still be a problem if you have a RCD breaker.

Apologies for the long answer and hopefully it is of some help.


How old is the griller? Have read that Grundig has a 3 year warranty on their small appliances. This may not be applicable to your location. If you have had it less than this length of time you may wish to follow it up. Just a thought.

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thank you so much!


i am writing from singapore. called their customer service and found out something interesting: grundig never repair their faulty item under warranty, they will exchange and trash whatever you give them. apparently this is their company policy.


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It sounds like there is too much load on that breaker. You can try 2 things to see if it changes. One, unplug just about everything you can (assuing your using it in the kitchen, dont unplug the fridge and other large appliances). If it still trips, go try it in another room or a place where the breaker is seperate from the one that keeps tripping. An area with light things like lamps or nothing really at all plugged in. If it still trips, there is an issue, but it really just sounds like your overloading that breaker.

Hope this helps! If it did please the the accept answer button!

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It's listed at 1500 watts.

1500 watts equals how many amps at 120 volts?

Amps Formula:

Amps = Watts/Volts.

Given values:



Problem: Amps=?


Amps = Watts/Volts.

=> 1500/120

=> 12.5 Amps

Answer is:12.5


Yea and most circuit breakers are 15-20A So with the other appliances, its probably being overloaded


Hi @cam2363 ,

Your answer is a good first step to prove whether the circuit breaker is tripping prematurely, however I believe that the inference in your 'comment' in incorrect i.e that it is near the rating of the breaker when combined with other appliances and therefore it will trip..

The rating on a fuse or cct breaker is their current carrying capability not the current at which it trips or blows. As a rule of thumb the value of the current that trips or blows a fuse or breaker is usually 1.5-2 times their current carrying value. If this were not the case you would be forever replacing / resetting fuses and breakers due to the high 'inrush' or 'surge' currents which flow when appliances and motors etc are first switched on. Theses currents although short in duration can be a lot more than the actual running current required.

That is why fuses can 'fatigue' because they are carrying more than their rated value but less than the value at which they will fail. Eventually it burns out but you will notice that usually there is still fuse wire left visible and it appears to be broken rather than having been completely destroyed.


@jayeff Well, the question said only when it started to get hot. That isnt when its turned on as it takes a while to heat things up. I think it starts using a low amperage and slowly goes higher until the circuit overloads. Ive had problems at a cabin when i was using griddles where the breaker kept tripping.


Hi @cam2363 ,

And was the problem the breaker (or breaker's load) or the griddle?

If you try using a kitchen kettle, usually 2000W instead of the griddle on the same breaker and it holds then the problem is in the griddle


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Melvin Ewe will be eternally grateful.
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