My dryer still won't work

Hi I posted a question a week ago here about my dryer not working but the solution did not end up working once I rechecked my work three times. I hoped the solution was related to power, but I rechecked the cord twice and it shows that it is okay (I initially checked only the outlet and breakers). The problem is that the dryer stopped working midcycle- although the timer switch still works, as does the start button, because the heating element activates. I changed the thermal fuse twice- each time caused the dryer to run for thirty minutes before stopped again- and have replaced the motor along with all four fuses (twice). I'm running out of things to diagnose. Help!

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jedi_marigold, having to change the thermal fuse and other fuses so often would lead me to think you have a short some where, check (all) wires/plugs/connections for loose,corrosion,damage,bare spots or burnt spots including timer contacts and heating element,etc., also check the door switch to see if it is loose/damaged and functioning.

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It could be a dirty contact in the timer.

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"replaced the motor along with all four fuses" are those the ones in your fuse box at your house? Replaced the motor, replaced the thermal fuse and still have issues with blowing fuses etc. after 30min? Is that correct?

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Something isn't right. The heating element should not come on until the centrifugal switch in the motor opens/closes. That's a safety feature on all dryers. The motor has to be turning the dryer drum enough for the centrifugal switch to make the contact and complete the circuit to the heater. That switch is internal to the motor.

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Is the heating element coming on but the motor isn't?

A clogged vent or kinked vent hose will blow that thermal fuse.

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Are the thermal fuses actually blowing? Have you checked for continuity or just replacing without testing? Here is a link to help you test for continuity: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyCaoiQs.... If the thermal fuses are blown, then I would checked for a clogged vent/hose and make sure the exhaust port on the outside of the house is clear of any debris/critter nests.

Also, you didn't mention if you followed this guide that I posted in response to your question last week, so here it is just in case the thermal fuse isn't blown: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNv1AEW-.... I've found this troubleshooting guide to be helpful.

As you work through the troubleshooting guide, definitely check for secure wire connections and note any corrosion or blackened wires/components. Also, I notice you didn't mention replacing the belt, so make sure it is tight, installed correctly, spins freely, and the belt tensioner/idler arm is properly engaged. It's possible the belt is slipping off the tensioner/idler arm as it heats up from use. If this is the case, you'll notice the belt is not tight around the drum when you first open it up. Also, be sure to check the belt tension switch (they demonstrate this in the guide linked above).

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I tried all it said. The motor is really hard though because mine is different. I don't have a switch on the side- my arm is held down by metal prongs into the dryer itself, and there is no other fuse on the side with wires either. I did pull out the wiring harness with the five wires and I tested the motor as best I could . I got one positive reading between where the black and the red plug in... but the other three prongs for wires (green, red, and blue) did not produce anything. The guide also said to put the black to the motor housing and then the red to one of the prongs- which got a positive reading. It says my motor is defective... but I'm not really sure that I tested it correctly since the guide wasn't thorough. I actually replaced my motor already with a new one several weeks ago but its possible I got a dud. If you know of other info on how to test the motor with a multimeter to confirm the power readings, that would be super helpful.

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I would focus less on the motor, and more on the other stuff first. Did you check the thermal fuse for continuity? If you didn't throw them away, are you able to check the previous thermal fuses you replaced as well? Belt was tight? Belt tension switch was good?

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The belt is just fine. I checked the thermal fuses. None of them- including the newest one- the third one I installed- show any power. I did test the wires to the thermal fuse but the power doesn't arc between the wires to the thermal fuse either. However, this wire goes directly to the motor so if it is a motor problem, that would explain why my thermal fuse keeps blowing. However, I figured the two ends that hook onto the fuse should at least show the arc on my meter but there was none at all.

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Jedi - your multimeter should have a setting for checking the resistance/ohms. The ohms symble looks a little like an upside down U.

If your meter has that setting I need to know what the results are of a few simple checks.

Unplug the dryer and leave it unplugged.

Remove the back access panel exposing the thermostats, thermal fuse, thermal cutoff and heating element.

Remove wires from thermal fuse-with a meter lead on each side of fuse write down the ohms. Put wires back on and go to next component-thermostats, element,thermal cutoff. Write the reading down and put the wires back on.

Ohms checks are done with out voltage.

Leave dryer unplugged for all checks!!

Post your results and the model number located inside the dryer door please.

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Thermal fuse reads 0. The other three fuses all show around 1. My model number 110-67422600.

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