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Dryer won't run (after replacing almost every part)

Hi I have a Kenmore dryer 400S. A couple of months ago, it quit working midcycle. I vacuumed it out, checked the door switch, replaced the motor, replaced the timer switch, replaced the heating element, and replaced all four fuses. It does the same thing: it activates the heating element but the motor doesn't run. I've rechecked the motor install four times so I know it is in there correctly, and I replaced the fuses twice just to make sure I didn't get a faulty one. The only thing left is the wiring... but I'm hoping there is a simpler answer that I somehow missed. Can someone give me some advice on what to do at this point?

Update (03/06/2017)

I should mention that I installed the dryer motor, checked it, then installed the thermal fuse. At this point the dryer ran again (so I knew the motor, fuses, timer switch, and power worked). Then it shut off after thirty minutes- same as the first time when I first began to replace items. So here I replaced all four fuses. It ran again for thirty minutes. Then it quit. So I changed the heating element and four fuses (again). It didn't run again. Now I turn the timer switch to timed heat and the element activates but no motor- like when the problem started. If it didn't keep working, I'd worry about my fuse box (which I checked) or the power cord or any number of parts. However, it seems to reset with new fuses but then quits again.

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jedi_marigold just to make sure that I understand your question right. It heats up etc. just does not turn? the motor does not respond? What model number is your dryer?

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It is a 2007 Kenmore 400S. I don't have the manual anymore and that's all I can see on the dryer.

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Have you checked the voltage and polarity at the wall? If you've lost one line of 120v at the outlet it will cause this problem. You should have 120v on one line and 120v on the other line. Across both you need 220v.

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Lady Tech looks like you finally moved. New job going okay?

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Hello oldTurkey03! Yep, I'm moved and somewhat organized. Works great but I'm ready for a vacation! LoL

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Where are you now and can we send people to you?

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Thank you so much. I tested the line on the dryer and it showed the 120 as you said. The wall wouldn't give me any voltage though when i tested. I checked the breakers and they are perfect still. I guess this means I"ll be calling an electrician. I appreciate the help!

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Jedi, if you feel comfortable with turning the breaker off to that wall receptical you can check it for a bad wire. Sometimes I find that a connection was loose and overheated. A new receptical is inexpensive and easy to replace. Just be 100% sure there is no voltage to it and that you cut back all burnt or brittle wire and tighten all connections.

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Have you checked the belt is installed correctly, and deactivates the belt switch?

Also, here is a good troubleshooting guide. It's for a Samsung dryer, but the principles will be the same for yours: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MNv1AEW-3U...

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Replaced heating element and fuse dryer has been running but still not heating!!!

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@Clifton LeBlanc Have you checked the voltage at the wall? Just because a dryer will run doesn’t mean the voltage is correct. The dryer runs on 110 volts even though it’s plugged into a 240 volt outlet. The heating element is the only component on a dryer that needs 240. If one leg of 110 is missing, tripped, the element won’t work. Using a multimeter, check the voltage and polarity at the wall. Also check the voltage at the element in a heat cycle. There are several things that could cause it not to heat. The only way to find the part that failed is by voltage checks. If you haven’t used a multimeter before, I strongly urge you to find a qualified technician to diagnose it.

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jedi_marigold will be eternally grateful.
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