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How do I solder on the new port without melting it?

Okay so I've tried to solder on a new charge port to a ZTE ZMAX (boost mobile) I used my rework station which goes up to 450 degrees. It took a second to rework the solder and pop out the old one but putting the new one in.... yeah sorta melted. I feel like it wasn't my fault though but maybe I'm mistaken. I see in a video on here on how to rework the old one off and the new one on without actually soldering, just by using the rework station. That's awesome and I'd like to do the same for this Galaxy Tab 4 7.0 but I feel like the inside plastic piece is going to melt like it did on the ZTE replacement part and cause the charger not to clip into the port correctly. The reason I'm not for sure on weather it was my fault or not is because well I've seen guys do exactly what I did but theirs worked fine, I was wondering if the inside of the port is even suppose to be plastic in the first place or is that a quality thing? I really don't see how others do it if the inside of the replacement port they use also is plastic, and the plastic I'm talking about is the plastic tab that has all the connection tabs on it not the actual charge port (that is metal of course). I hope someone can shed some light on this problem for me, thank you!

P.S. Any advise on how to get better at using my rework station and my soldering iron would be appreciated and maybe some tips on how to start working towards micro soldering (really want to get into this).

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Ya 450 is a little hot . If you melted the solder you need to clean the old solder off with either a wick or a pump then flux the pads and then put some fresh solder on the pads or place the new port and solder it down with a iron. I tend to work my way up when using a hot air station I start with about 390 and move up till I get the solder to just flow I protect the surrounding components with Kapton tape to dissipate heat so i'm not desoldering everything else around it. If your going to use the heat station to resolder you will need to tin the pads then set the port in place and apply the heat slowly and only till you get a flow the port and solder should draw into place on its own as long as you didn't overdo it when tinning the pads. The solder will stay on the pad and the port should seat itself . if not use tweezers to set it in place but remember the port needs to be hot as well for the solder to adhere to it . Hope this helps

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@felixrobinson use the hot air gun for the removal, but to reinstall it use a soldering station with the smallest tip available. Plenty of flux needed to get it to flow quickly and cover the rest of the parts with Kapton tape or similar if you are coming to close with the heat.

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Felix Robinson will be eternally grateful.
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