7.9 inch display iPad Mini, with 16, 32, or 64 GB of storage.

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IPAD Mini LCD suddenly went black

Digitizer was replaced about 8 months ago and the device has been working fine for a good 9 months. Suddenly the LCD went completely black(no backlight) while it was being used.

Its still alive...

  • Device is still operational as I was able to connect to itunes and pull all photos and data by using a template to get me past the lock screen.
  • When connected to power, the ipad still produces the bell sound.
  • Pressing and holding the home button does not activate SIRI as expected??

Things that I have tried...

  • Replaced the LCD, and Battery. Was very careful about having the battery removed prior to disconnecting the digitizer and LCD. Nothing changed the ipad behaved the same as listed above.
  • Tried power/home button reset. No change
  • Probed the backlight fuse and the diode and as far as I can tell they tested OK. Please see photo of the backlight fuse which looks very suspect.

Block Image

  • Checked for connectivity between fuse pad and diode checked OK.

It appears that the LCD is not getting any power? Assuming a failed backlight fuse, I would expect to at least see the faint apple logo which I dont see after shining an LED flashlight on the LCD.

Appreciate any advise and guidance on this issue. What else should I be looking at?

Thanks in advance.

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Thanks for all the support. Looks like replacing the fuse/filter and diode did the trick.


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Test for continuity across the fuse itself. It may need replacing. Actually it looks like it needs replacing regardless.

Otherwise any part of the circuit may be damaged. If you get hold of a board view, you can test for continuity starting from display connector all the way to the filter and across to isolate other potential failed components.

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Good call Rany...I agree, you can see a small solder bead on the top of the filter (fuse). That is indicative of a failed ferrite bead.


@rany - thanks for the feedback. Im having a friend microsolder a new fuse and diode. Will keep you posted on my findings.


If you don't seem to have a spare replacement part, just make a jumper - although replacement is the 'right' reparation, the iPad will be usable after just a jumper. And hey, you can use it until the new part arrives :)


@thingalong replacement is not the "right" reparation. It is the ONLY reparation. Those iPads blow this fuse a lot so there is a very high risk for other components on that line. Jumping this filter is a terrible terrible practice and a very bad advice. IIRC his iPad does not have a separate backlight driver. Meaning with a jumper instead of a fuse, next time there is a surge on that line diode is sure to blow, possible traces, and after that the PMIC.


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Sal Noto will be eternally grateful.
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