End of cycle signal keeps beeping

The end of cycle signal keeps beeping and rotating through the entire sequence of lights and eventually shuts down the dryer.

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This is a control board failure. You can replace the board for a couple of hundred or try this fix I found:

Default $10 fix for constant beeping

My experience with the Kenmore He4T dryer is that every year I had to buy a new board because of the continual beeping, and eventually failure to run. I decided to get to the bottom of the problem, I'm tired a paying $200 for a replacement board. I traced every button and LED back to the main controller board. What I ultimately found is that the signal from the End Of Cycle Volume, Start, and Cancel buttons are read using the same wire that controls the units display for the time remaining. After time this display must degrade and interfere with the signal for the EOC volume making it appear as though someone is continually pushing that button. Below are my instructions on how to fix it. Cost will be under $10 and depending on how comfortable you are doing maintenance will take less than 30 minutes.

I fixed my Kenmore dryer but the Whirlpool uses the same control board and has a little different keypad, but it essentially the same circuitry. All my fix does is put a diode in series with the cathode (pin 13 on the display board).

1. Remove screws to main keypad panel, Torx #8, or small screwdriver. Don't worry nothing will fall out, the buttons and LEDs are all soldered in. They could actually sell this board separately for a lot less, but then they'd not make as much money. Also, you can often find a cheaper assembly in a different color that your machine has, and simply swap this board with the original.

2. With main keypad board removed, look at the top side area near the upper right corner. Near the display. There is a white line indicating jumper JP12. Cut the jumper trace using an exacto knife. Make sure the trace is completely cut. If all you want to do is remedy the problem this is enough. However, the units time remaining display will not work with this jumper cut.

3. Using the holes that are at the ends of the jumper just cut, insert a diode. The black bar on the diode should be at JP12 hole next to the hole for jumper JP48. The diode end without a bar should be near the top edge of the board. I used a solder sucker to remove solder from the hole then inserted the diode to give it a neater appearance. If it is easier you can just solder the diode onto the top of the holes without actually putting the leads through.

4. You're done put it back together and try it.

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Hi do you know if a control board for he3 will be okay & work to replace original in a he4 dryer? I have a unit i can buy for 150$ less than a new replacement board for the he4.

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Amanda I doubt it. You can compare them: https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/...

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Mayer,

Your solution worked perfectly, as you knew it would. You mentioned having to replace the board several times before getting to the bottom of the problem. Luckily after having our He4 dryer for 13 years it started for the first time. And now, without having to buy a new board, we back in business.

Thank you

Harold

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Harold, that's great to hear. I wonder sometimes if people actually do what I suggest.

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Mayer,

I had done the remedy that you had indicated. It worked great,,,,for about a week and then the symptoms returned. The symptoms include random beeping at display lights when the dryer is not running, same thing when it is running and then the failure to come to life. If unplugged for 10 minutes or so it seems to come back to life.

I am wide open to any suggestions you can offer. Also you mentioned replacing the board. You don't have a part number for that one board do you? I can only locate the whole control panel assembly.

Thank you again for your insight.

Harold

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