The Kenmore Elite HE3 is 7.2 cu. ft. capacity electric dryer by Kenmore.

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Dryer doesn't run, help.

I have same issue no power, Breaker OK as other appliances will run from same outlet, I have unpluged overnight and no power persist. Door does not lock. I am having trouble to find answer. The control board looks fine to the eye, no resisters blown no scrch marks either side, Wires all tightly connected. Let us know if you can point us to a cause. Could it be as simpe a s a thermal fuse? but does that blown fuse kill everything, inside light and control panel lights?

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Most Frequent Causes for Dryer won't start

Cause 1

Thermal Fuse

The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown out. A multimeter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.

Cause 2

Start Switch

To determine if the start switch is defective, attempt to start the dryer. If the dryer hums but does not start, the start switch is not at fault. If the dryer does not respond or make any noise, the start switch could be at fault. Use a multimeter to test the start switch for continuity. If the switch does not have continuity, replace it.

Cause 3

Door Switch

The door switch activates when the dryer door is closed. On most dryers, the door switch makes an audible clicking sound when it activates. To determine if the door switch is working, try starting your dryer and then listen for the “click.” If the door switch makes a clicking sound, it is probably not defective. If you don’t hear a click, use a multimeter to use the door switch for continuity. If the switch does not have continuity, replace it.

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Comments:

There is no hum or door click. The unit is DOA. Will a blown thermal fuse kill entire power to all controls inside door light and any hum and all clicking sounds? If so that will be an easy fix. I would likely change thermister at same time as one sites recommend. Do you know how I can get both control unit and contact switch boards tested. I am inexperienced with an ohm meter but willing to try. Thank you for your quick and detailed answer. I can not afford to trial and error changing boards or contact panel. They are way too expensive, Ebay gets $100-150 each for used ones. Hate to junk it if those parts have that kind of value ad are still good. If odds are good at all for thermal fuse I am ready to try that .

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These are easy to test. They either have continuity or they don't. These parts are also usually cheap/ Please give me your model number and i will locate the correct parts and sources. As the Godfather stated, "I may ask a favor of you", when it's fixed but it will be a small humane one ;-) No one has objected yet.

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Kenmore Elite H4 gas dryer, front load, thanks

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model number please! I can't find a (correct) part unless I have it.

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model 110.95876401, thanks

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gordon rodgers will be eternally grateful.
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