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Repair information and guides for the iPhone 6 that was released on September 19, 2014. Model Numbers: A1549, A1586, and A1589

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iPhone still drawing amps with no battery attached?

Hello everybody;

I have in my possession an iPhone 6 which was damaged when it fell into the sink. The LCI was tripped and turned red. Upon removal of the logic board and inspection of all the components under a microscope, there appears to be no issue. No burnt out components, no corrosion. So first I toss everything separately (display, casing, motherboard) into a bucket full of silica gel beads for about 5 hours to remove all the water/moisture out of the parts. I then tried using a new display, new lightning connector, as well as a new battery, and every combination of those two with the original battery, connector, and display. However, no response whatsoever from the device.

The only real lead I have so far is when I use a USB tester, the amperage is at 500 mA. When I remove the battery and test it again, the amperage stays around 300 mA (give or take 20 mA) for quite some time without change. I suspect that the issue may be hidden underneath an EMI shield and I was unable to find it with an initial inspection. So my next step is to remove the EMI shields and have another look at it along with having it cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner.

Before I proceed though, I was hoping to get some advice on where to possibly look. Anybody have this issue before and can give any pointers in the right direction as to where I should begin looking?

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

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You have a short to ground that you need to find. You must start by testing the main power rails including the battery's.

There are no shortcuts to liquid damage treatment. You MUST remove the shields and displace liquids with IPA (a minimum) or clean with a pro ultrasonic cleaner (ideally). Then look for visible damage and shorted lines.

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2 Comments:

I see, I figured I would have to remove the EMI shields. So the only issue is that I can remove all the other shields, but the one closest to the battery is being stubborn. I've tried turning the temperature up to 350 C to no avail. Should I keep increasing the temperature or am I missing some sort of trick?

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A bit of both. That's the hardest to remove. 400C, big nozzle, and hold it by the shield.

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