Released on September 19, 2014, this 4.7" screen iPhone is the smaller version of the iPhone 6 Plus. Identifiable by the model numbers A1549, A1586, and A1589.

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Water damaged.. new screen but no screen response?


I have received an iPhone 6 that has been submerged in water. I took the phone apart into pieces, and let it sit in alcohol then dried it. The phone turns on, I can verify this in iTunes. It even asks me to enter the passcode to the phone to access it. Silent switch works too.

I suspected it was the display so I swapped it out with a verified working one. Still, same result. I'm now thinking there is a shortage to the pins on the logic board? I am new to this and happy to learn every day. Is there anything else I can try or do? If not, is there any way to verify this is a logic board issue? Any other thoughts what the issue could be?

Thank you very much.

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This sound like components have been burnt out on the board due to water damage. You should open it up again and lift up the black sticker near the LCD / Digitizer, front camera connector. Check for water damage and burn marks there. Also check the pins for any burn marks too.


Are you referring to the sticker to the left of the rear camera?


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That's an easy one. Either you have "no display" meaning the backlight is on but no image, or neither.

Or you have "no backlight" meaning you have an extremely dim image that you can barely see.

Either way, in my opinion it is not worth it to repair that phone because liquid damage causes so many issues over such a long period of time that after you fix one issue, the phone may come back for a different one.

I only repair liquid damaged phones to recover data. UNLESS the liquid damage is very limited and the board had the shields all removed and was professionally cleaned with a pro ultrasonic machine using the right kind of surfactants, then all the apparent (which should be minor if any) corroded or damaged components reflowed and/or replaced.

Even if you succeed, for which you will need to do the above cleaning (alcohol removes the liquid but does not remove corrosion) then follow the schematics to determine what is causing the "no display" or "no back-light." There is no smoking gun here, it could be a number of things from connector, to filters, to resistors, to caps, to back-light drivers, to the PMIC itself. Or all of them together when you have generalized damage.

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Thank you. Is it even worth checking the small components to see if anything burnt?

Also (sorry not sure if should make a new question) this leads to the next option with data recovery, is there any way to bypass the passcode? iTunes won't let me in, using Windows.


That's the essence of data recovery from dead or water damaged devices. You need to be able to input that code.

Yes you can also look for burnt components by pulling the schematics and testing from the connectors and back for missing, corroded, shorted, or burnt components.


Thank you huge help :)


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