1.8GHz dual-core Intel Core i5 (Turbo Boost up to 2.8GHz) with 3MB shared L3 cache

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MacBook air mid-2012 randomly turning off

My laptop had a coffee spill some time ago.

From that moment, it has been extensively cleaned and it worked if connected to the DC. The battery didn't charge.

I changed the battery, nothing changed. It means the battery was new but it didn't charge.

I brought for reparation were in theory (I cannot get an explanation of what exactly they did, incredible) they replaced that chip (ISL6258A) that some user here referred to fix this issue (I've found it, it's here MacBook Pro battery not charging after spilling liquid on it?).

Then it charged well and everything looked fine, until it has started to shutdown randomly when using the battery. AND THEN I remember that before the coffee spill it started to do this, so this is an old problem.

Then, I have the mac opened and I was expecting to see the connection somehow loose (the cable that connects the battery). But it is not. It looks perfectly fine. Then, I see the 286JB, which I guess it is a suspect for this issue (no idea of what it is, but it is the first box next to the battery cable). The truth is that I have no idea, and that having a laptop in this state is quite useless.

Do you guys have any idea?

Thx,

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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Install this app: coconutBattery so we can see what the state of the battery is and its charging. Post a screenshot of the info back here in your question so we can see it as well.

Update (09/02/2015)

Well the battery has quite a few cycles but beyond that the battery and the charging data appear to be fine.

I suspect the liquid damage is created a bad solder joint so when the system heats up the power gets dropped. At this point you'll need to have someone check the solder joints on the power logic.

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Can you take a second screenshot of the CoconutBattery window when you have a power adapter attached, so we can compare the two?

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where can i found the solder joints you mention ?

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You'll need the schematics and layout drawings to walk though the logic. Frankly, I would find someone who does component level repair of MacBook logic boards than try this my self. You really need the proper equipment and sills.

Think of it this way would you let the plumber do brain surgery ;-}

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Don't know if you resolved this. But my Mac Pro Retina did the same and Apple couldn't sort it. I finally found it was the lid proximity switch (left side between USB and Thunderports and under the logic board) was "sticking" for want of a better word. Basically it would think the lid was closed. I posted a "question" a couple of days ago that explains how I sorted it. Essentially a liberal dose of contact cleaner.

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Gerard will be eternally grateful.
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