Released June 2012, Model A1278. Intel processor with Turbo Boost, Up to 512 MB DDR5 Video RAM

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Magsafe DC-in, water damage or something else causing no/slow charge?

Hello folks,

A glass of rum and coke was spilled on my laptop during a late night cooking session by my otherwise wonderful girlfriend. As soon as it happened I shut the computer off, opened it up and removed the battery. I then cleaned the spillage inside with rubbing alcohol and Q-tips. There was sugary liquid on the board itself that had entered through leftside ports. Computer was not plugged in at the time.

24 hours later, I restarted the computer, and, miracles of miracles, all seemed to work. However, I've realized that I'm having charging issues. When I plug in the laptop, I get a "not charging". About 30 minutes after plugging the computer in, magsafe light turns orange and computer begins to very, very slowly charge (went from 3% to 85% in 12 hours).

Battery is at 570 cycles (so should be fine). Coconut battery gives me a good status on the battery and regular temperature. Charging with between 0.2 and 0.7 watts when first plugged in, then up to 4 watts after 30 minutes.

I'm thinking I should just replace the magsafe dc-in. But it's a big(ish) job, and maybe I'm forgetting something. I've done SMC resets, to no avail. I've visually inspected the port, and everything seems fine. I've cleaned the port as well, and tried multiple power cords.

Any thoughts? Thank you so much!

EDIT: bumping with the hope of an answer. Sorry about the bad Internets behaviour.

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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Nicely stated question ;-)

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Check the obvious first. Use a multimeter on the AC adapter. Next use a magnifying glass to examine the Mag-Safe board for any residual corrosion. Next the logic board. The mag-safe board is my primary suspect and cheap to replace. Test it independently with it removed and disconnected and the adapter connected. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement

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Thanks for the insight. Despite Louis Rossman's interesting point below, I might just go for it anyway, and test the magsafe dc-in before I go buck wild in the computer's innards. Simplest solution and all that. Thanks a lot.

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Considering the fact that your Mac turns on, I don't think that the logic board is fried. iFixit provides tools, guides and parts describing how to fix your MacBook. The battery may have suffered eternal damage. Because you have a sealed lithium-ion battery, any temporary short can cause problems with the battery. Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the bottom cover. Use a spudger (search the iFixit store if you don't have one. Make sure to use the static-safe spudger) to remove the battery connector (this connector is very fragile, so be careful!), then use an iOpener (it looks like a long bag from iFixit) to loosen the adhesive that holds the battery into place. Carefully look at the battery. Is there any liquid damage or are any of the battery cells bulging? If so, this is bad. Don't put the battery back in. Instead, order a new battery (again, iFixit has batteries galore). DO NOT THROW THE OLD BATTERY IN THE TRASH!!! This is environmentally irresponsible, not to mention incredibly dangerous. Take the battery to an electronics recycling center. Check with your local electronics stores to see if they take lithium-ion batteries. Next, take out the logic board and remove as many components from the device as possible. There are many different types of screws. You're going to need several unique bits, including the Apple Pentalobe and the triwing bit (iFixit has all of these). Use the Magnetic Project Mat (available from iFixit) to keep track of the copious number of screws. Take lots of pictures, so that you know how to put your Mac back together. Examine the front and back of the logic board. Bulging capacitors and resistors are bad, and you want to avoid touching them. If there are bulging capacitors or resistors, then you may as well declare your Mac dead. I hope this helps.

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Capacitors and resistors on macbook motherboards don't bulge they blow and look burnt it's not a old imac there are some fat capacitors but i've never seen a solid state bulge. The problem is within the U7000 ISL charging circuit and needs to be tracked with a multimeter.

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Not U7000, but very warm. First to give the right answer gets a free organic vegetable juice.

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If you have Boot Camp for Windows set up, download CPUID HWMonitor. There's no need to get the Pro version, the consumer version will offer everything that you need. What is the wH listed in HWMonitor?

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There is also a free app for mac called coconut battery which monitors battery and give you basic information.

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jghomel will be eternally grateful.
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