Repair and disassembly guides for food cooling appliances including refrigerators, freezers and fridge-freezers.

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Kenmore Ice Maker M1 SA8868 drips gallons of water into catch box?

I have a Kenmore Ice Maker M1 SA8868 in my freezer. It previously worked fine for years. I moved to a home without a water hookup, so I made ice "manually" with plastic trays. I just moved back to a home WITH a hookup, and now the ice maker won't form "cubes".

I can make cubes _manually_ on the low freezer setting, but I can't get cubes to form on low, med, or high freezer settings IN the ice maker. The receptacles fill up, and it stays liquid. The maker starts dripping from the bottom and just fills up the catch box with icy slush water. 3-4 gallons a day it seems.

I can pop the cover and force it to cycle by winding the dial a bit, causing the motor to take over, eject, and refill with water. But still no freezing in the maker. I have tried with the "sensor arm" both up and down (up is "off").

Notes:

I can't tell if the motor is turning on it's own, or turning too often (I can't sit and watch for hours).

I found a guide here, but it seems to have issues:

http://www.ehow.com/how_12021705_trouble...

1. arm up is OFF, not on.

2. there is no "rubber pipe on top of the unit", as there is a plastic spot that seems to direct the water to each cube "spot".

help?

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I bought a cheap thermometer at Home Depot, and my freezer temp seems to vary between 18-32 degrees.

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Due to the constant dripping while troubleshooting, I had to add an in-line valve in the water feed line between plumbing, and the fridge. I used a "1/4 inch plastic quick-connect straight valve" (~$9) from Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-1-4-in-.... Extremely simple install: just cut two straight ends in the line, and push into the valve.

After valve installation I tried incrementally closing the valve, to reduce possible pressure on the water going into the system. This changed NOTHING unless the valve was fully shut, and obviously dripping stopped. However, the valve being shut means I don't have to empty a catch-box of slush water every 4-5 hours.

On the last shut off for a while (I had to stop testing), I later returned and found half-sized cubes had finally formed in the tray, but were frozen in place mid-ejection, at about 90degress of the full rotation.

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Good video here showing and explaining internals:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCUgA5T5...

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I ordered and installed an entire icemaker replacement via Walmart link provided below by "UberFix". The problem still occurs. Moving on to replace the Automatic Water Supply Valve (AWSV) in the base of the fridge next. Under visual and touch inspection, no water APPEARS to be leaking into the icemaker, but it HAS TO BE. The ice catch box fills up with about 2 gallons of water, and the icemaker can't leak that much without being fed more water. It leaks continuously, and I've never heard it refill via automatic valve unless I prompt it. I'll update after that repair.

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I ordered and installed a new Automatic Water Supply Valve (AWSV) part no: 242252603. This is apparently a newer part that is now being used as a standard replacement for the old part. The kit included a new feeder line from valve, up to freezer entry point, and spout. When I installed the existing "in" line onto the valve, I also discovered the little copper(?) insert in the tubing was clogged and nasty with green and black crud. Although NOT the cause of the original problem, I recommend having a replacement insert ready as well (not included with the AWSV kit). The new valve seems to have done the trick WITH the new icemaker. The leak immediately stopped inside the freezer, and the new icemaker began to make ice as expected. The first batch took longer than expected, but they speed up as freezer regains cool.

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Sounds to me like there's a problem with the timer or perhaps thermometer, or whatever device it uses to tell when the ice is done. Could also be an issue with the water valve. I've read it uses a heat release (ie it heats up the bottom of the ice to make it fall out... perhaps it is overheating it, or the heater is staying on too long). Sorry, I'm good with electronics, but Ice makers aren't my thing.

Best advice I can offer you is a fairly cheap replacement ($55). This model on eBay is new and is designed to fit as a replacement to your current icemaker.

Here's the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-OEM-...

Here's one at Walmart for $43: http://www.walmart.com/ip/40105162?wmlsp...

You may want to double check the compatibility.

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Thanks for the help. I'll pick up a Walmart one if compatible. I had no idea that non-OEM replacements existed, until you posted.

If it fixes it, great. If not, move on to the next idea.

I'm suspicious that the problem may actually lie in the Automatic Water Supply Valve (AWSV) in the base of the fridge, since the drip never stops, and that is the last physical regulation point on the water line. However, the icemaker still controls the AWSV.

So an easily returnable Walmart model would be better than an Ebay buy. It's even CHEAPER on Amazon, via 3rd party.

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I ordered and installed a new Automatic Water Supply Valve (AWSV) part no: 242252603. This is apparently a newer part that is now being used as a standard replacement for the old part. The kit included a new feeder line from valve, up to freezer entry point, and spout. When I installed the existing "in" line onto the valve, I also discovered the little copper(?) insert in the tubing was clogged and nasty with green and black crud. Although NOT the cause of the original problem, I recommend having a replacement insert ready as well (not included with the AWSV kit). The new valve seems to have done the trick WITH the new icemaker. The leak immediately stopped inside the freezer, and the new icemaker began to make ice as expected. The first batch took longer than expected, but they speed up as freezer regains cool.

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