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Model A1181: 1.83, 2, 2.1, 2.13, 2.16, 2.2, or 2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo processor

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No Boot, Screen Flash, White LED, Black Screen. Logic Board Repair?

I have a MacBook (2.0 ghz I think) that when plugged in and the power is pressed, flashes real quick white (maybe blue, can't tell) then goes black. The solid white LED stays on but I get no response from the computer.

I have already tried:

  • Taking the battery out and unplugging the AC adapter.
  • Holding down the power button for 10 seconds (Reset SMC)
  • putting the battery back in and plugging in the power cord. No change.
  • Tried with 1 ram stick, in both slots. No Change.
  • Switched the two ram into different slots.

I have done a lot of mac / laptop repairs before including changing caps, soldering and re-soldering components. GPU reflows etc. But this one has me kind of stumped.

Things I'm going to try next:

  • Try a different power cord (don't think this will have any affect but worth a shot)
  • Remove the PRAM battery and then try to boot
  • Replace keyboard, Possible problem in there?
  • check dvd/sata cables (read on another forum)
  • Try to heat the gpu and reflow

I am not afraid to get down to the component level on this. It seems ifixit mac stuff is only basic repair. I think if people really want to fix things and "change the world" they test board components.

Anyone who has repaired these know of any common spots on these boards that go bad? I looked at all the components with a magnifying glass and did not see any bulging or burnt components.

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Update: So far I have tried a few things with no change.

  • Tried Different AC adapter.
  • Removed the PRAM battery then tried too boot
  • checked the DVD and SATA cables to see if there is any connection problems.
  • W
  • hen plugged in I still get the flash on the screen followed by black, and the solid white LED. Anyone have any other suggestions?

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Upadate: Success! I figured the SMC resets weren't doing anything so I decided to try a reflow on the GPU. I covered the board in a tin foil (to dissipate heat on other components) and left the area open on the GPU chip (both top and bottom side). I then hit it with a heat gun for 2 1/2 to 3 min. It gets really hot, so I let it cool down for a good 20 to 25 min and reassembled it and it started right up, screen came, chimed, and apple logo. Hope this helps for other frustrated people that don't want to shell out for an new Logicboard.

Update

I am not sure how great the fix is, It only lasted about two weeks until I started having problems again.

There are a lot of tutorials on the web for HP DV-6000 series on the reflow. I ended up following on of those and did it for the macbook.

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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Hi,

I have the same problem with my mac book.could you explain it futher how you did it?

thanx

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I have the same problem too. could you please explain in detail how you fixed the issue. I have never done a reflow before but willing to take a risk here.

Thanks!

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Chosen Solution

First try to identify the problem. Plug it into an external monitor to help isolate the problem. The logic board is a last resort. Lets go for a cable or inverter board first. Let us know the results and we'll go from there.

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3 Comments:

I have already tried with an external monitor. No dice. I am pretty sure its not an inverter unless the inverter would cause a logic board fault. All the inverters I have replaced didn't affect the actual performance of the rest of the system, besides the display output obviously.

I forgot to mention the the power light does work properly when plugged in. Ie. is green when there is no battery and seems to be providing sufficient power. turn orange when battery is plugged in to indicate that its charging.

Also there is no apple chime or any indication that it is booting up.

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If the external monitor didn't work, then it's the GPU and has nothing to do with the inverter, cable or screen till it's fixed.

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agreed +

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