Sixth iteration of Apple iPhone, announced on September 12, 2012. Repair of this device is similar to the previous models, requiring screwdrivers and prying tools. Available as GSM or CDMA / 16, 32, or 64 GB / Black or White.

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Please Help Me Identify these Damaged iPhone 5 Board Components

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Hello, sorry for the long post, but I wanted to be as helpful/detailed as possible about the symptoms elicited. If you aren't up for reading this, the photo basically tells the whole story =P.

______________________ How I Messed It Up:

While disassembling my past-warranty Verizon Iphone 5 (model A1429), I regrettably appear to have damaged 4-6 of what i believe at extremely tiny... capacitors?, right between the battery port on the motherboard and the screw hole to its right. I believe I crushed 1-2 with my screw driver, and damaged a few more by using too hot a soldering iron to remove the debris... (I know - brilliant, right?). I removed most (4/6) of these busted components, because there were definitely beyond repair, but a couple I left are at least somewhat damaged, so I think all 6 will require replacement. I'm not really sure if they are resistors, capacitors, or fuses, but they melt very easily, and are filled with a white substance... so will need to install the new ones at low temp - might use a cold-solder epoxy...

Before figuring out what I had done, I did take the phone apart a few times (progressively further damaging this area in the process). Initially, I had JUST lost the mic for non-speakerphone calls and voice-notes.

Troubleshooting:

Before I took a look with good magnification, it was working fine other than that mic, so I replaced the lower microphone / headphone / lightning wire port insert (which didn't help). The replacement mic made no difference. Upon further messing around, I eventually lost the screen picture (it flashed vertical lines and then went black) and it was not recoverable. I then tried replacing the screen, which also didn't help, so I finally realized it must be the logic board, and pulled out my low power microscope. The attached photo shows where on the board I am talking about (on left) my board (in center) and a picture of a functional iphone 5 logic board I found online, on which I circled the components I damaged in red.

What I'm Hoping you Guys Can Help With:

They all looked the same at 20x, as can be seen in the photo. I think I'm capable of replacing them, (either by heat gun with low temp solder, a low temp iron with a needle point, or conductive epoxy).

But, I need to know what they are, and where I can get others (I guess I might have to buy a water damaged $20 board on ebay? and try to desolder them from it?). I did cause a little spark once before removing the battery, but *think* nothing else is damaged (carefully removed the metal covers and inspecting things). I know fixing it is probably a longshot, but really want to try (and frankly can't afford replacing it for >$100, or paying someone to for the same). If nothing else, and despite all odds I really want to try to do this myself, if for learning from it alone. I know I could buy a new board If i had the money, or pay apple to do an out of warrantee replacement, but I would REALLY appreciate your help in letting me try to do it myself - I know I f'ed up and was stupidly reckless. But, I have learned a hard lesson in regards to how exceptionally delicate phone logic boards are. Please let me know if I might provide any other helpful info!!

EDIT: ooh, one more thing (don't know if it will help) I used a multimeter to determine that there is power (4-5.4V or so depending on the exact pins, going to the motherboard from the charging port at the bottom of the phone, but despite this, no voltage (at all) gets from that part of the board, to the battery port just below it. Obviously, and as is visible in the photo, the circuit is currently broken without these components, but I'm guessing I can't just short them out, or they wouldn't have been there in the first place.

EDIT #2 (2/16/15): Finally got around to trying to solder this thing, and, due to it being very difficult, was wondering if conductive epoxy would work? to be clear - something like this: http://www.amazon.com/0-2ML-Silver-Condu...

NOT just normal epoxy.

THoughts? I worry about any potential effects of increased resistivity, compared to normal solder? Thanks!

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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I think the product you are referring to will not work like a glue to hold the components in place, and they may get knocked off very easily.

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Rany is absolutely correct. That is the trouble with 1005 sized components. They do require special tools and skills to be soldered on. Epoxy is not the way to fix it:-)

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thanks guys! will keep trying via hot air / a filed down soldering iron then.

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try using solder paste instead of solder if you are using a hot air station

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No no no don't do it! Too much exposed ground. Order some conformal coating and cover up all your spots where the solder mask is removed!

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Black Friday
Broken doesn't stand a chance.

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Christopher West, looks like you are using a lot of heat on your board. Clean it up first (high grade isopropyl alcohol and a brush should do) and do stay away from any epoxy. Those components are meant to be soldered, not glued:-)I also suggest to stay away from applying jumpers etc. Anyhow, here is the list of the parts:

reference designator C275 is a 220PF 10V 10% X7R capacitor in a 01005 package

reference designator C366 is a 56PF 16V 5% NP0 capacitor in a 01005 package

reference designator C364 is a 56PF 16V 5% NP0 capacitor in a 01005 package

all parts are easily obtainable through either Mouser.com or Digikey.com as well as many other places. Not very expensive either.

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update

lucky day, they are all the same:-)

reference designator C365 is a 56PF 16V 5% NP0 capacitor in a 01005 package

reference designator C367 is a 56PF 16V 5% NP0 capacitor in a 01005 package

reference designator C9 is a 56PF 16V 5% NP0 capacitor in a 01005 package

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wow!! this board is incredible!!! Thank you SO much oldturkey!! you freaking rock =)

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oh! one other thing! I'm so sorry for the trouble, but is there any chance of identifying the other 3 capacitors in the photo? I know they generally look okay in that photo, but I'm pretty sure they will need replacing too =(. In addition, to using less heat, I'll definitely use aluminum foil over the other components so I don't damage them further =P.

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First and foremost, never ever work on the inside of a device without first disconnecting all power sources such as battery and charging cable.

Second, watch out for ESD.

Third, and this may not what you want to hear, but for wanting to save money, you may end up further damaging your phone.

You should know that although feasible, micro-soldering in electronics repair requires specialized tools and a good amount of skill that is acquired through practice. If you do want to attempt the repair, train on a scrap board first; this way you'll measure your capability and limitations and/or understand what I'm referring to. Once you are able to transfer components on the scrap board without damage to them or their surroundings, you can attempt the repair. At least that's how I'd do it if I were you.

Finally, the missing components I believe are those:

Top 2:

C9, C364, both: 56PF, 5%, 16V, NP0-C0G

Bottom 4:

Bottom 3/right: C366, C367, same as above.

Bottom 1/leftmost: C275: 22 0PF 10% 10V X7R-CERM.

Other more experienced contributors on this site such as Oldturkey may be able to verify if those are correct, and better give you details about them and where to buy them.

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Oops sorry forgot the package, 01005

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thanks!!! Yeah, I think I'll grab a damaged one, or use an old laptop motherboard laying around (if it has small enough components) just for practice. I'm thinking placing soldering paste and using a heat gun at low temperature with all other areas covered with aluminium foil might be my best bet?

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Clean well before, during, and after. Clean all the time.

I start by applying a little flux to the pads on which I want to solder.

Then I apply heat, usually hot air or the tip of my solder iron.

Then I clean using a soft brush and 90%+ isopropyl alcohol and air dry. At this point, everything should be clean and shiny.

Then I apply a fresh minimal dose of solder paste, position the component, and solder it using hot air or an iron. I finish by cleaning again with IPA, leaving no trace of the flux.

Isolating surrounding components is a good idea. Google "polyamide tape" or "kapton tape." Aluminum foil is a good DIY option. Hold it in place using paper tape. Good luck.

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Chris---step away from the soldering iron!!

None of those components need to be replaced, they are just filtering data from the battery. Don't worry about it. You have waaay to much ground material exposed to even think about putting solder or (oh god forbid) conductive ink in that phone. You will short out the whole phone for sure.

Tell us what defect you're trying to solve --bottom mic? And show us a more general pic of your board and we can help you

Jessa--your friendly microsolderer.

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And no low temp or wacky hacks. These components arent fragile--they came soldered in with lead free solder at 260C. They can go back in just fine with regular leader solder and a micropencil iron

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I have the same damage as i am new to this , but my fault is no service when i put in the sim card , my original fault was the charging port that i had changed any help would be appreciated

Ron@ron-sayer.com

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i have the schematics with the list of components for the iphone 5. can email them to you if you need them?

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Christopher West will be eternally grateful.
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