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2.3GHz, 2.6GHz, or 2.7GHz quad-core Intel Core i7 processor (Turbo Boost up to 3.7GHz) with 6MB shared L3 cache.

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Re-sticking wires inside of Retina MacBook Pro.

I attempted to replace my keyboard, and I was wondering if it were possible to stick the various parts back down like they originally were to make it less obvious I gutted the machine.

Including cables, rubber parts, the microphones, and the battery warning sticker. I'd like it so that if I have to get it serviced, it won't be immediately obvious that someone's been inside.

Especially the microphones, that part isn't sticking down properly anymore.

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1 Answer

If you've attempted (but not completed) replacing the keyboard alone on your machine. . . they'll know.

If you've pull off connectors, they'll know - connectors are not "stuck" on the board they are soldered as part of the assembly. Adhesives do not conduct current.

A dab of rubber cement or a thin coat of automotive weatherstrip adhesive will hold wires, and the microphones back in place if the original "sticky" is insufficient .

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4 Comments:

The reason I didn't complete the job was everyone was saying it was impossible to get the rivets back in, so I reassembled it and ordered screws from eBay. When I get them, I'll try again.

Don't worry, I didn't pull off any connectors, the only mistake really was that I forgot to disconnect the backlight before removing the logic board, and I suppose removing a part or two I didn't need to. Anyway, I tore that cable. Luckily the new keyboard also came with a backlight of its own.

Will the rubber cement be significantly stronger than the original "sticky"? I'd want it to be possible to remove the parts without ripping them.

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If you use one (not three) coats of auto cement it will not hold as firm as on automobiles. Silicone also works. Strong is a relative term... how many times do you anticipate stripping that box? Another alternative is double sticky tape, either the light (paper), or the thick (carpet/rug) holding kind.

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I don't anticipate stripping it again, but I want it to be possible without causing irreversible damage. I figured as close as possible to the way it came out of the factory was a good ideal for the adhesive strength. I do have silicone from a less invasive repair attempt. It's a sealant thought, not "glue". I guess I can try that.

Realistically, what would happen if I took it in for service for a different problem? Would they tell me I don't owe anything, but then notice the undocumented work, then demand the money before they continued the repair?

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I don't work for Apple - major mucking about inside generllay will void your warranty.

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