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Torque converter lockup solenoid

Code p0741 tans converter lockup solenoid. Need how to replace solenoid

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Did you ever get this looked at? If so what did you get fixed to resolve the issue?

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Can someone please follow up with a result to this issue?

Can someone who has a resolution or know what was performed to resolve the issue please reply to this forum (besides getting rid of the car - that's not an option for me)?

THANK YOU!

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I am happy to announce that my error code > P0741 < was fixed! The solution to my issue was that the transmission fluid was never replaced since it was purchased new. The trans has 151K miles on it and now is running like the first day I bought her. I took a low cost chance, changed the trans oil with a friend per the instructions on here (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/132-9t...). All instructions were followed to the 'T' and everything went perfect. The engine code was gone the moment the engine was turned on and has stayed off since I last reported my rant. I know this is not a fix for everyone, but this is a cheap alternative and trial & error to find out what the issue was. Please be cautious about where you take your car and the BS scum bag "mechanics" will feed you to only drain your wallet. Best of luck and I hope this vote of confidence will help the next person out there!

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My GF's 2003 Sequoia just got the check engine light and also the VSC Trac, VSC off lights all at once. It has about 150K miles. She says she might of done a transmission fluid change a few years ago but isn't sure. I'm gonna go ahead and replace the fluid and filter and see what happens. We came back from our local Toyota dealership and they said "Transmission needs replacement" for $4000.00. Crazy. I do notice a slight tug right around 30MPH or so, but only intermittently . Will keep you all posted. Thanks.

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To asorbrainis, not all mechanics are bs scumbags. I took offense to your ignorant remarks. I pride myself on honesty and accuracy. Think before you type.

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5 Answers

Chosen Solution

P0741 Toyota - Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Performance

Possible causes

- Low transmission fluid level

- Dirty transmission fluid

- Faulty torque converter clutch solenoid valve

- Torque converter clutch solenoid valve harness or connectors

- Torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted

- Transmission internal mechanical problem

Befroe doing anything, take it to your dealer and have them check it. There is a service bulletin out that adress this issue specifically. "

TSB number TC008-04

Title:

M.I.L. "ON" DTC P0741

Models:

'04 - '05 Corolla (1ZZ-FE)

November 22, 2004

Introduction

Some 2004 - 2005 model year Corolla vehicles may exhibit M.I.L. "ON" with DTC P0741 (Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Performance). Production changes have occurred to correct this condition. Follow the repair procedure to address those vehicles that exhibit the condition.

NOTE :The repair procedure must be followed closely to assure that only the affected part is replaced, as multiple possible causes are listed.

Applicable Vehicles

^ 2004 - 2005 model year Corolla vehicles equipped with 1ZZ-FE engine produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VIN shown below.

SO THAT MEANS BEFORE VIN # 1NXBR3#E#52369427

Production Change Information

Block Image

Warranty Information

Applicable Warranty*:

R & R of the Speed Sensor, Transaxle, and Torque Converter Clutch Assembly are covered under the Toyota Powertrain Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 60 months or 60,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle's in-service date.

R & R of the Engine Control Module is covered under the Toyota Federal Emissions Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 96 months or 80,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle's in-service date.

See if you can get anything resolved through Toyota first. Hope this helps, good luck.

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Sadly everyone posts the same questions or alternatives with the same outcome (issue returns) and not one single OP posts a follow up. I'm at my wits here and would like to avoid a $3-4K transmission replacement or a job costing over $500 if it was just a simple fix.

Can someone who has a resolution or know what was performed to resolve the issue please reply to this forum (besides getting rid of the car - that's not an option for me)?

THANK YOU!

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Im in the same boat, I took it to a trans shop and they did a flush and replaced the tourque converter solenoid, light came back on a week later, $560 for that job.Then brought it to another transmission shop that was familar with the history of this problem, after multiple diagnoisis since the check engine light can come on for a day then go out for a month, they were 99% sure it was the computer. They wasnted $1000 for that but I bought the computer from an online Toyota dealer then had a local dearler install and flash it. That total cost for me was another $500. Two days later the CEL come on again, I cleared it,it stayed off for a month of driving then on for a day then off again. This is driving me crazy also.

mp727@aol.com

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I have 2006 corolla. P0741. San Diego Toyota did the 1st tier of the {do this, if this doesn't work, do this and if that doesn't work, car needs new tranny}. Tranny fluid drained, metal in sludge ($200.) Code still on. Received CHP fix-it ticket, (tags expired = engine light on). 2nd tier was performed SD Toyota, replaced Powertrain ECU w/updated ECU according to TSB-037808. PLEASE TAKE NOTE...Toyota Matrix (same as corolla, body different (hatchback)), has same problem, TSB has one # different than Corolla and IT WAS a NAT'L RECALL! After this was replaced at full price ($612.) engine light stayed off long enough to get the car smogged, (less than 1 hour) before it came on again. Tags are due soon, $2,800. to replace tranny w/ rebuilt one or fix problem. Budget Muffler B/A, diagnosed P0741 today, replacing Torque Converter which was fried and replacing Stater bushings. ($1900.) I have been reassured engine light will be off.

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I own a transmision shop common problem with these transmissions. The stator bushings wear out. Generally recommend soft part overhaul torque converter and sl solenoid most of the time this takes care of the concern however sometimes there are computer issues along with the previous mentioned. Hope this helps

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Hi Jeremy, I am sorry for my ignorance, are the stator bushings located inside the Torque Converter? So if I were to replace the torque converter would this also be included? I had this P0741 issue for a long time and I just replaced the TCC solenoid but after driving over 45mph, the light is back. Thanks for your help. please email me at destruit11@yahoo.com

Thanks!

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Just a update for anyone dealing with a code p0741 (have a 2008 kia sportage 149,000 miles) ... Start off by checking your fluid level, color, smell and if all checks out It's probably your TCC Solenoid (torque clutch converter solenoid) I had thought the worse case scenario and told myself I would just drive the car until the transmission fails completely but then I asked for a quote and the independent transmission shop owner said he would check it for free and run a diagnostic test on it. I got a call about a hour after dropping it off saying it was exactly what I thought it was the TCC solenoid and it would be a $475 fix! Find a local transmission shop and read through every single one of their reviews! Your transmission is important and one simple fix could make it last for many more years!

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I being a master auto mechanic for 27+ yrs have taken on this issue w a recent customer. The corolla is a 2007 (12/06) w 90k on it. I checked the code - (p0741) was present. I drove car on a highway road test (9.4 miles) to check TCC lock up solenoid operation. All worked perfectly. Checked vin if ECU was a recall candidate; No, it's not. Checked fluid; on a white rag it left grayish color. (Trans fluid should be red.. as it wears, brownish it becomes not grayish-Brown.) Removed trans cooler lines and flushed out cooler till it was clean. Hooked up inlet line into a 5gallon jug of fresh trans fluid, while the outlet line into an empty 5 gallon hug. Started car on lift and ran car thru it's gears until fluid was cleared of grayish fluid. Reinstalled cooler hoses. Drove car again w a pressure gauge teed into cooler lines. Also used my Verus, watched TCC solenoid operation w a lab scope that I backprobed into the ECU too see if EcU is working properly. Drove this for a (9.4 mile ) on part highway & local roads. All was good. Rechecked fluid - clean. As this point, being fair to customer, I told him too PAY ONLY FOR FLUID used and get back to me after he puts 200 miles on it. If light comes on again, then I will take another approach. Customer was pleased beyond belief with all that time spent but only paying for fluid. If after 200 miles goes by without light reappearing, then I would charge him the labor ($265)... He agreed. I will keep everybody posted if light reappears.

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I have the same problem with my 2007 toyota corolla. However, the check engine light only comes on after I drive more than 30 miles on the highway. After a couple of days it goes away. The solenoid code is the same as mentioned above. The car makes loud noises (engine shakes) and drives sluggish in high gears. It also sounds louder in high gear as well. I need help. What should I be looking for? Where are you located? You can also email me at stephanie_chicon@yahoo.com if possible. Thanks.

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Erik Grever hello I read your post and according to it you appear to be knowledgeable in regards to this issue. I am a single female I walked into what seemed like a reputable shop cuz my error light has been coming on and off for months reading torque converter I first took the car to where I bought it but since it is a used car the guy said there is no warranty. The shop I took it to tells me replace the transmission or try to trade it in for another car I still owe money on this capprocimately 2000 or a little more. I just want to have a car I can drive without sinking thousands of dollars into it. Any suggestions of a good fair mechanic I am in long beach ca

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My wife's car has a similar problem. It also reads P0741. Engine light turns on after driving it on the freeway for awhile but turns off after a day or two. Any suggestions what can cause this?

Email me at hector_macario@yahoo.com

Thanks

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I started having this issue a couple years ago with my 96 Camry with 300k miles on it. Due to the age of the car I decided to just leave it and it has been driving great. As far as I can tell the only consequence is slightly reduced highway mpg (about 2 mpg less). I think the ECM does not even attempt to lock the torque converter when you have this code, so if you have an older car that you just need to get you around it probably isn't worth fixing.

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I started having this issue a couple years ago with my 96 Camry with 300k miles on it. Due to the age of the car I decided to just leave it and it has been driving great. I have put probably 20k miles on it while this code was on. As far as I can tell the only consequence is slightly reduced highway mpg (about 2 mpg less). I think the ECM does not even attempt to lock the torque converter when you have this code, so if you have an older car that you just need to get you around it probably isn't worth fixing.

On my V6 Camry the solenoid is located on top of the valve body inside the transmission, so you would have to drop the pan and remove the valve body to access it. The solenoid is not cheap either, so I don't think I am going to spend that much time just to gamble and see if it might fix the issue.

This code alone shouldn't make any difference on your emissions besides the slight mpg drop, but if you live in state that automatically fails you for a check engine light then you can usually just reset it by disconnecting the battery. Mine doesn't usually come back on for a couple hundred miles.

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Ok the same torque converter code appeared for me a month after i bought my 2005 toyota camry...I tried to drive my car the other day n when i tried to drive off it wld not go forwrd after putting the petal to the metal it finally allowed me to go forwrd an when i put it in reverse it reversed ever so slowly....needless to say i didnt want to drive it..after reading multiple posts of people driving with the same converter torque issue it must b ok to drive still once i get it going..but im sure its not recommended correct?and what price am i honestly looking to pay to do this??

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JOHN..."but if you live in state that automatically fails you for a check engine light then you can usually just reset it by disconnecting the battery...." I KNOW ALL TOO WELL ABOUT THE CALIF. DMV AND THEIR FRAUDULENT PRACTICES REGARDING THAT ENGINE LIGHT. CA RESIDENTS do NOT reset your engine light. By doing so, you 1st get a look from the smog technician that you are trying to hide something from the DMV, not wise. 2nd by resetting the engine light, you erase the ECM or computer or brain or black box of your vehicle. That is also an AUTOMATIC FAIL! Each vehicle make/model has a different amount of miles you need to drive before the memory comes back to normal. You need to call your car's dealership to get that number. Hopefully, you can regain your car's memory before the engine light comes back on.

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PATTYCAKES....I was told by San Diego Toyota that the only way to shut off my engine light for good, was to replace the auto transmission, even though I was not experiencing any significant problems with it yet. My service advisor told me to just keep driving it and run it into the ground until it can't drive anymore. Well, couldn't do that. Need a smog every 2yrs in Calif. She said the transmission will get louder and louder and grinding noises until it finally quits. I would assume like any worn out part on a car; if you let it go until it quits, you are going to be replacing the whole transmission. Dealership $4500. Private repair shop $2800. In my case, I pick up my car tomorrow, they replaced the torque converter and bearings $1850. It sounds like you have a real problem if your vehicle is having shifting troubles. Sorry to say it wont be cheap to repair. Good Luck. Patty

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