A washer series by Maytag with a low rate of customer satisfaction and a high rate of failure.

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Dryer runs but clothes don't dry

The dryer runs and sounds normal, but the clothes are still wet after running "heavy duty" mode for an hour. This just started happening. I don't think the air in the dryer is warming up.

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I had the same problem. A technicien came and check the blower and heat.

He said it was fine. He told me to clean the hose and vents.

Cleaned out all vents and hoses.

Still have the same re-curring problem. Need two cycles or more to dry our clothes.

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I have the exact same problem. Need to run the dryer cycle 2-3 times to dry fully.

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I have had the same problem for past couple of years. My husband cleaned vents checked temp, etc. Still has to run for hours to get clothes dry. Not very energy efficient if you have to use it for so long

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has anyone found a solution to this problem?

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Me too. I suspect the water hose for the steam setting is wetting the clothes. I had water in the vent and the floor beneath the machine was damp as well. Mine is the Bravos YMEDB850WLO. The matching washing machine (MVWB850WL1) also is needing repair...probably the bearings as it is super loud in the spin cycle.

I'M SO SICK OF PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE!!! Just can't ever get ahead. :(

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3 Answers

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Clare, first you have to make sure that your air vents are all clean and not obstructed. Then check your fuses. There should be two fuses for the dryer in your fuse panel if you are in north America and running on 110V. If those are okay it can get a bit tricky. This dryer model has a blower assembly that is belt driven. Check this video to show you how to replace that. Part number 29 in the diagram, and it is available at places like this . If the belt should be good, or a new belt does not fix it, you may have issues with the heating coil as well as problems with the thermostat and cut-off temp sensor. Let us know how well you are with a multimeter when you get there. Hope this helps, good luck.

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Where can I find the heating element on my dryer

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What make and model dryer is it?

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Maytag brovo quiet series 300

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My MAYTAG IS THE BRAVOS MCT mode: YMEDB850WL1

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Here is the quick checks you can do to troubleshoot almost any dryer unit but more specifically for the Maytag bravos. First thing you should check is whether or not you have airflow from your unit. You can remove the vent duct from the back or feel the duct for flow. Removing the duct will help if you have issues with heating. If you have airflow then you need to check the heating components. There are 2 thermostats which serve as safety switches. One is at the bottom of heater bundle and on about a foot above it just before the airflow enters the dryer barrel. You will need a multimeter to check these. While cold they should read short or very close to 0 ohms as you read your multimeter. If both of these are good you will need to check the control thermostat which turns the heaters off and on. It looks like the two previous thermostats but slightly larger. It will have to red wires going in to top and bottom and two purple wires going into the back of it. The purple wires go to the temp switch on the control panel portion of the dryer. You can read the resistance across the purple wires to check this switch. It's resistance should be short or 0 ohms as read on your multimeter, resistance will go up as you increase temp setting. Mine was 4.5k for low 5.5k for medium and 6.5k for high. If you check the thermostat it should be short when cold. Lastly you can check the thermal fuse. It is mounted right next to the control thermostat and is a slender white piece with two terminals. This should be shorted or 0 ohms on your multimeter. This checks all components aside from the heater bundle. You can take resistance check for the heater across the terminals of the heater termi also. On my unit the lower safety thermostat was placed on one of the terminals of the heaters. Make sure you remove this prior to checking. I do not have a specific value for the heaters but should be relatively low. If they are broke to the point of not getting hot enough or at all they will read open or extremely high. Most normally read below 5 to 10 ohms usually, not uncommon to be slightly higher on different types. This checks all components which impact ability of the unit to produce heat. Parts are cheap to get and easy to replace. The hard part is what I discussed above. Hope this helps in saving you all some money in not having to deal with shotty techs.

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