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The Kenmore Elite HE3 is 7.2 cu. ft. capacity electric dryer by Kenmore.

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Why won't my dryer start a cycle? all lights are normal?

I have checked everything but the fuse.. it starts as if its going to run a normal cycle and then nothing.. all lights and sounds are normal..my dryer is only 6 years old..

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Mine does the same and it's brand new out of the box. Can't figure it out.

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Mei yours is covered under warranty! Contact the store you got it from.

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Mine is over 1 year old and makes the starting cycle noise but does nothing else just the constant annoying noise

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I would check to see if the main control board at the top of the unit hasn't let the magic smoke out. I'm currently working on a 110.C86762702 and that is the problem.

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Mine JUST did this. I figured out it's the door switch.

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Thermal Fuse

The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

Start Switch

The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.

Door Switch

The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Most door switches will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

Drive Motor

On most dryers the drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.

Drive Belt

On most dryers, if the drive belt breaks the motor can still be heard and it will still be blowing air out the exhaust tube, but the drum will not spin. However, in some dryers when the drive belt breaks the tension pulley arm trips a switch which shuts off power to the entire dryer. If the dryer won't start, check to see if the belt is broken. If it is, replace the belt and the dryer should be fine. If the belt is not broken, check the other components that can fail when the dryer won't start.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit

Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.

If the dryer won't start, check to make certain there is electricity to the dryer. For a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to see if it's working. For an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If they are working, check the outlet where the dryer plugs in with a volt meter. There should be between 208 and 240 volts. If there is power to the dryer, check the more common items in this troubleshooting guide.

If the dryer won't start, there might be a belt switch that has failed. This is not a common problem and most dryers do not have this switch. If the dryer has a belt switch, the switch shuts off power to the entire dryer if the belt breaks. It is possible that this switch has failed, even if the belt is not broken. It can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer works at all, even if all it does is hum, this is not the problem.

Main Control Board

The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.

Timer

The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.

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ok now my dryer is over heating on all cycles?? what would be causing this problem.. replacing the fuse made the dryer run a drying cycle but only HOT air is coming out.. when the cycle is done the clothes are too hot to touch..

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The cycling thermostat in your dryer monitors the temperature in the blower housing and cycles the heating element or gas burner on and off as required to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat becomes defective or cannot accurately sense the airflow temperature, the heater or gas burner may stay on too long and create an unsafe temperature in the drum. The cycling thermostat has normally closed contacts that open on temperature rise and therefore testing for continuity will not easily determine if the thermostat is defective. You should first inspect the exhaust vent, blower wheel, drum seals and drive motor to verify that you have proper airflow before replacing the cycling thermostat. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair. Take note that a buildup of lint or other foreign material on the back of the thermostat will insulate it and prevent it from sensing the proper temperature. Here's the part: http://www.partselect.com/PS344510-Whirl...

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When closing the door and pushing the start button, all lights come on it beeps once and the time flashes, like the door is open. My bulb burnout out about a year ago and I didn't replace it; however, to check the door switch, I bought a bulb. I replaced the bulb and it did not light up. So, I'm wondering where this fuse that you mentioned in the first step is located. Think that's my problem?

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I have a 2014 Kenmore Elite Electric Dryer (frontloader). All the lights were functioning, but when I pressed the start button there are 3 clicks and nothing. We called Sears Repair as the dryer is about 3.5 years old. The Sears repair guy came and said we had a blown mother board and the diagnosis alone was $80. He wanted $600 to replace the motherboard. I ordered the exact part # from SearsDirect from his diagnosis printout and I replaced it for $190 (it took 15 minutes). BUT, the same thing happened, dryer powered on fine, pressed start, 3 clicks and NOTHING. I have another Sears guy coming this Tuesday. Any suggestions Mayer? Thank you so much.

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I know this is an old thread but I’m gonna answer because it’s been plaguing me for days. The most likely issue if buttons work, you’ve checked door switch, thermal fuse, and thermistor and when you hit start you hear the “click” but washer doesn’t start most likely there’s a solder joint that broke on the circuit board(not the one behind the buttons) best explanation is to watch the “F01 code repair” video even if your machine doesn’t show any fault codes (mine didn’t) you’ll see the blown solder joint once you remove it and flip it over. If you are in the same situation I was in.. you’re welcome

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Dave, our dryer won’t start but all the lights turn on. Any ideas? We’ve replaced the thermistor and thermal fuses. We’ve cleaned it out. We thought it was fixed but it just keeps quitting.

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