The TH (turbo-hydramatic) 700R4 was developed for use after 1982 in GMC and Chevrolet cars and trucks.

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will not shift into 3rd just slips.

I installed a 700r4 in my 60 chevy. It only shifts 1st to 2nd it slips when it goes to 3rd. does this have any thing to do with the TV cable not being conected?

Answer this question I have this problem too

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Jack, mine has that problem too, slips after 2nd. I am about to put another 700R4 in there and I can report back after the install. - Frank

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My 1982 Vette is now having the same issue. I changed the fluid and filter, drove about 30 miles and now it will not shift into 3rd. She only has 40K miles on her. Is this common after a fluid/filter change for this tranny?

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my 83 chevy doing the say thing but stays in 1st

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my 84 trans am is doing the same thing and i cant figure out why

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My 86 gmc sierra doesnt shift until 3500 rpm cant even manually shift it am i doing something wrong

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Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits

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Just a heads up for you guys. Being a former Chevrolet Technician I can tell you that is a common failure on the early model 700R4. Up until 1993 the trans used a TV cable for throttle input to the trans. In 1993 the trans was redesigned and now has shift solenoids for shift control. No longer does it have a TV cable or Governor. The Governor was for road speed and the TV cable was for throttle input. Now the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) and the TPS (throttle position sensor) are the inputs to the TCM or PCM depending on model year to control shifts. The electronic control module will calculate the proper shifts on variations of these two inputs. The early 700R4 had numerous design changes to make it more robust. But one of the best changes was when it went to electronic shift control in 1993. The line pressure was now also controlled electronically and enhanced the longivity of this trans. I speak from personal experience as we repaired the early model frequently for burned 3-4 clutch plates which is very likely the problem the earlier posters had. At times it was not known just what caused the loss of pressure to burn the plates as there are a number of factors involved. I just came across this site and I see the posts are old but decided to add this note in case someone in the future would come here. Good luck :)

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Thank You For IMFO.

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Thankyou for the info. I have a 1989 chevy van with this same transmission...same problem. No third gear. Today I just put it in the shop for a 1200 dollar rebuild. For a few months I couldnt afford this...yet I needed my vehicle on a daily basis. Hence...I got very good at driving with just first and second without over-revving. Best to stay on back roads with speeds of no higher than 25mph...until transmission overhaul can be made.

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jake mine to i can only do 25mph too

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A little history: I rebuilt the 700 in my 89 K1500 and it was doing great. I put about a 1000 miles on it, when I noticed when driving it my gas milage dropped off and it felt like the brakes were applied. I pulled the truck up an incline shifed to netural and it just sit there. I had to put it into reverse to get it to move down hill. I some troubleshooting and found the lock rear end was binding up. This put a load on my drive train and the transmission was running hot. This also had an effect on the shift up/down. Might consider checking the fluid level in the rear end and dirty fluid. I am curious as to what the GM tranny guy thinks about this? Thanks to all.

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I'm having trouble with my 93 suburban and can't figure it out. It just happened.

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Jack,

Check out this thread about the 700R4. I am having the same problem with mine and I am replacing it with a unit from Craigslist.

Good luck

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I have 92 gmc Jimmy with 700r4 and it drives fine till I put heavy throttle up hills and want to shift up and down randomly and wants to spudder until I let off throttle alittle

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There are no "shifting modules" inside the transmission. As Mr Zimmerman stated, the later units(renamed as 4L60E) used electronic shifting and pressure controls. The module which controls the transmission may be part of the PCM(controls engine and transmission) or a TCM(controls just the transmission). The transmission in this case will contain pressure switches, a torque converter clutch solenoid, shift control solenoids and a duty cycle controlled pressure control solenoid.

The earlier 700R4 and non electronic 4L60 were controlled by a hydraulic valve body and received throttle input, as stated above, from the TV cable. This cable is often mistaken for a "kick down" cable as used in the TH350. The TV cable in the 700 plays a much more important role than simply commanding forced down shift. It is crucial in controlling line pressure to the hydraulic components of the transmission and incorrect adjustment will affect shift behavior and leads to early failure.

The 3-4 clutch pack is a common failure item in this transmission, due mostly to the design of the input drum where the 3-4 clutch resides. The clutch pack installs at the rvery rear of the drum and is held in place by a snap ring. The thin backing plate of the clutch holds back the apply pressure with only the snap ring to keep it in place. The backing plate flexes under this pressure rather than maintain even pressure on the clutches. The clutches slip and burn up.

For years, builders of this unit have tried to work through this, using various hi performance clutch designs. There is a new part available from the Sonnax company named the "Smart Tech input drum that appears to offer a permanent solution to the problem. This is especially important when the unit will be used in a racing or heavy duty application, behind a hi output motor.

There are several other items that affect the 3-4 clutch as well. The 3rd gear accumulator, which is part of the 2nd gear servo assembly, absorbs the shock of the 3-4 clutch apply. The accumulator is a piston with a sealing ring around it. If the sealing ring fails, apply pressure to the clutch will bleed off and the clutch will slip and burn. If the 2nd gear band servo doesn't release quickly enough when 3rd gear applies, the 3-4 clutch pack will burn up. If the trans oil pump doesn't produce sufficient pressure, the clutches will slip and burn. The input shaft is also a conduit for oil pressure from the pump to the various clutches. Sealing rings are used to isolate the circuits from each other. If these sealing rings leak. Pressure will bleed between circuits and cause clutches to slip and burn.

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Is a good explanation I try other sugestions and this is the most right .

I have the same problem with a 4L60E 2002 Chevy Silverado 4.8 L. The sugestions give I'm going to do ( Sonnax)

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The TV cable MUST be installed and connected to the throttle arm and adjusted properly for the transmission to operate properly. Failure to do this will result in slipping shifts and poor performance and will eventually result in transmission failure. Cable brackets and cables are available on Jegs or Summit to enable proper TV cable geometry/travel.

Adjustment is easily done once the cable is properly installed, press in on the side of the adjuster body (a button like thing, its metal) on the throttle end and push the adjuster all the way into the adjuster body. Release the "button" and slowly open the throttle completely by hand, it will be a bit tight doing so. The adjuster will come out of the adjuster body to the proper distance, and you're all set.

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thanks for all the new info do think that i have the same problem as you talked about above. i have a 1990 s10 4x4 with 4.3 motor. it shifts great but then starts to slip in 3rd and over drive almost as if its in neutral but if i shift it to 2nd gear then back to drive it works then starts to slip again and only revs when i give it gas so i shift it down by hand again to 2nd and back to drive it works for a few then it does the same thing like its not in gearthe fluids good not burnt and all gears work fine just acts like its going in and out of gear can you give me any clue what may be the problem with it buddy

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I have the same problem, i thout it was the valve body, so i took it down to clean it. We i pulled it down, i found a piece of seal(Mecanics call it swatch seal) it was on te top of te valve body. This seal is located at the pump . This mean the transmission is not pumping enough oil presure to shift 3 and 4. You can take te tranny ##&&% out a check it or go to a transmission specialist who is goin to kill your pocket

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I have had the same problem before.. It sounds like the seals are leaking and not applying adequate pressure to the clutch packs. I know it's a no no but I put about a cup and a half of brake fluid in mine and it made it work.. When it quits, hopefully it will be warm and I will rebuild or replace it.. I was not out to try it.. Some people say that it makes seals mushy.. It fixed mine.. for how long I am not sure..

Good Luck

Dan

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4 speed with lockup

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Sometimes if your kickdown cable isn't connected/ adjusted right it will falter through gears

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Two possibilities. The TV cable is adjusted improperly. There could be air in the valve body fluid. Do a search for adjusting the TV cable first.

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before you replace it there is electronic shifting modules in it you might want to drop the pan replace that module and your filter

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check into emissionscontroll systemand if you have a vacuum controlled lockup

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Yes you better hook up a the TV cable before you burning the clutch packs.

TV cable runs pressure valve that runs in stink with governor and throttle.

If not hooked up you will have the wrong pressure and burn up clutch packs

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If the 700R4 won't shift out of first gear, it's most likely the governor. The governor is under the tin cover on the LH side, towards the rear of the case. You can pull the cover with large channel locks. I use a pair of dust cover pliers that remove the cover without damaging it. With the cover off, the governor pulls straight out. Look for the plastic gear to be stripped. If the gov gear is okay, check the valve for sticking. If the governor checks out, you will need to remove the pan and valve body to check for a stuck valve or valves. The first thing I would check would be the 1-2 shift valve train, next would be the modulated up shift valve.

If you don't understand what these things are, you probably aren't ready to dig into the 700R4. It is a fairly complicated unit. I will tell you that there is great information available for this transmission. The ATSG rebuild manual is a must have if you are going to disassemble the unit. The GM "700R4 Principles of Operation 2nd edition" circa 1983, is a very good book to have and read thoroughly before you think about repairing this transmission. This book was printed by GM for their factory techs and provides a very detailed description of the unit's design and operation. Just a hint for those serious about learning this transmission, this book is out there for free download if you do some searching. Try a Google search using the name as stated in quotation marks above.

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Something I should add concerning any automatic transmission: Before you get too deep into trying to fix it, drop the pan and check out the amount of metal on the magnet. Also take a good look at the fluid. If the fluid is cloudy(friction material), or if there is more than about a teaspoon of metal on the magnet. It's probably time for an overhaul. Any repair at this point, short of a complete overhaul may be of limited success.

If you want to learn more about this family of transmissions, purchase an ATSG rebuild manual and study it. Also, the GM "700R4 Principles of Operation" is a great book. GM published this book in 1981, with a second edition in 1983, for their factory technicians. It provides great detail on the design and operation of this transmission. It is available for sale and it can also be found as a pdf download(free) through a Google search. The ATSG book is a must have for rebuilding this unit and the GM book is the most detailed technical publication I've found yet. Also, there are great videos on youtube, some of the best by Hiram Gutierrez, on the disassembly and rebuild of the 4L60E, which aside from the valve body, is exactly the same as the 700R4.

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I had a 98 chevy s10 ls not sure what trans was in it but it seemed to only has over drive even when it was is drive it would not shift into 2nd until around 3,000 rpm sometimes more but all other gears were fine i drove it like that for almost a year before brake booster went had i had to sell and i was told it was a shifting solinoid and the fluid was never changed and that could have had a small part to play this problem is very commen in s10s seems like everytime i see one for sale it has this problem im getting ready to buy another one and has same problem wont ahift into 3rd and doesnt have drive .

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Is there a possibility that the shift servo could be the culprit??? I am having the same problem with an 89 k1500 and I have changed the governor and now it shifts great into 1st and 2nd gear...It even chirps the tires when I step on it but I can't get it to shift into 3rd or Overdrive...I have been playing with the tv cable, which some people call the throttle valve cable, which I believe is the vacuum cable...But who can say for certain...Anyhow...I am worried that the clutch pack may be out...hehehe...But on the transgo jr shift kit that I purchased it states that it will correct the 2-3 cutloose...Anyhow...Who can say for certain???Maybe someone in here can shed some light on 2-3 cutloose...The fluid was quite dirty when I changed it but there was not much metal on the magnet...I sure hope the shift kit will remedy my problem...Or could I just remove the shift servo and clean it up and slap it back into the tranny??? Only time will tell...

Ed T

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Unless the copper flash checkball has been removed from the valvebody, having the TV cable disconnected should cause late harsh shifts because it causes the TV boost valve to default to high line pressure. It should not cause slipping in 3rd. Most likely cause of this problem is damaged 3-4 clutches. It could also be a rolled or cut 3-4 piston lip seal or a cut or damaged sealing ring on the turbine shaft.

It is also possible that the 3rd accumulator checkball is not sealing. This isn't so much an issue with the 2-4 servo assembly. It is however related since the 2nd servo is also the 3rd accumulator. The 3rd accumulator checkball is open in 2nd gear and allows the 2nd servo to move and engage the 2-4 band. When the unit shifts to 3rd gear, pressure is applied to the release side, or 3rd accumulator side of the 2nd servo. This closes the 3rd accumulator checkball and forces the servo back releasing the 2-4 band. This same pressure also applies the 3-4 clutch.

Most likely though, it's just burned up 3-4 clutches. Huge failure item.

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Yes the throttle valve cable increases line pressure and pump pressure during acceleration.

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jack will be eternally grateful.
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